Looks NICE! :excited: Speed Tech is on my list for suspension, so is RideTech ..... we'll see. Are those uppers the high clearance arms? What size front tires do you expect to run with stock fenders?

Looking good!

It looks great in there. It will be a big difference.

Amazing garage build. Lots of good information & picture. One question about your garage how big is it?

Yes, I do believe they are the high clearance uppers... I ordered their full kit for the front sub frame. This is what it said in it's description:

•High Clearance upper and lower control arms
•Tubular, heat treated, powder coated, chrome moly sway bar
•Billet aluminum upper shock mounts
•Qa1 adjustable coil overs
•Power rack and pinion with steering arms
•Adjustable motor frame mounts
•adjustable transmission cross member

They have been an AWESOME company to deal with. A+ on both product and customer service!

As for the size of the front tires... I am currently starting to plan out my wheels and tire purchase... (I have been back and forth a ton of times)
I am thinking: 275/35-18 on the front to take advantage of the sub frame, and (here is the part I have been back and forth on) 325/30-19 on the back or 335/30-18. I am working on getting my quarters finalized so I can get the rear-end under it and take some measurements.

Thanks... the "Shop" as the family calls it was a 7 year adventure... for I had some friends in the construction field help build the structure, but then I finished the entire interior (with some help from family) on my own to keep it affordable for me... and the bank. :)

The size is 32' wide by 48' deep with 12' sidewalls...

A few things I would do differently the 2nd time around.
- I would have never put a slope in the floor toward the center drain... it makes leveling things out SUCK! There is an almost a 2" slope in it right now.
- If you want to put a lift in... 12' is the very MINIMUM... I had to cut a pocket in-between my ceiling trusts to fit the lift.

Thanks for the information. :thumbsup:

My original drivers door was in BAD shape, it had been previously re-skinned with a pop can (atleast it the same gauge of metal):headscratch: Then they took a torch to the inside structure to probably fit some KILLER speakers! :wacko:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...%2520Doors.jpg

So I decided to just replace the entire shell. I accidentally received 2 drivers doors... which turned out to be a bit of a blessing, for it allowed me to pick the better of the 2... plus one of the doors had a pretty decent flaw.

One of the doors was a Goodmark... not sure on the other brand.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...Large%2529.JPG

Do you see a difference?

Goodmark door (FRONT), unknown door (behind attached to car)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...Large%2529.JPG

It seems the geniuses skinned a 67 door frame (It has the correct hinge bolt pattern) with a 68 skin. For the mirror location is not correct due to the vent window location. (the Goodmark door is correct)

Without both doors sitting side by side, I might not have noticed the difference until it was to late later... after paint. :hairpullout:

Here are some other shots that show the slight differences in other areas:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...Large%2529.JPG

So onto the passenger door... This was the one panel I thought I might be able to save. And I know if at all possible keep the GM doors over aftermarkets. BUT, i swear this car wants nothing to do with its previous parts! :shakehead:

Enter... the "Red door"....

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...Large%2529.JPG

P.S. This door jack that my work is letting me borrow is AWESOME for hanging doors by yourself!

Anyway... I knew there was a decent amount of mud on the door, for the whole car at this point seemed to have had a heavy coat of it. But I ground down all the corners where I thought there may be rust... Nothing. I figured I had a clean door.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...Large%2529.JPG

UNTIL I took the whole door down to metal... I think the car was a getaway car at one point, for it looks like the door went though a war zone and was shot with a shotgun. There was alteast a 1/2 gallon of mud or more on the door.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...Large%2529.JPG

Look at the body line (wavy as hell)... it was completely built out of mud... it was over 1/4 inch thick at the body line. The photos don't show just how concaved in it was in many places either. :confused59:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...Large%2529.JPG

Out comes the door jack... OFF comes the "red door"

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...Large%2529.JPG

I know I could have re-skinned the frame, but due to inner structure having a torch taken to it, and I don't think it was straight either, for it wanted to bow where it meets the quarters.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U...Large%2529.JPG

I already had a new aftermarket door, so I put it on to give it a try...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...Large%2529.JPG

MUCH BETTER!! I know the aftermarket doors get a bad rap for not fitting as well as the GM panels. But I have to say this door is not bad at all. In fact I got my GM NOS front fender out and set it up against the door (I did not gap it) and the fitment was actually very good. It also seem just as heavy as my original.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...Large%2529.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...Large%2529.JPG