Yep. Jason said he'd give me a few pointers for the valvetrain. I may have him checkout the heads. All the new $4K worth of EFI wiring, ecu, and new fuel system is mounted and routed in the car and I thought it would best to just chassis dyno and tune it in the car with all that stuff, my full exhaust, my cold air setup I plan to make for the cowl hood, etc.. Besides, I enjoy working on engines(especially one like this) so this will give me part of the build to enjoy. I'm just happy I can let someone like Jason nail down the short block. That'll give me a lot of confidence in the motor.

Definitely let him check the camshaft for lobe accuracy. Are you running a 4/7 swap? I'd also let him check your valve job, guide clearance, decks, chamber volume, installed height, and spring pressures. You want to make sure your quench is right. A strong short block is at the mercy of a weak valve train. :D It's on in the details.

Sounds like a good plan to me. It's going to be fun as hell.

Chris

Looks like you're well ahead of DG on schedule and potential power output. :thumbsup:

Maybe I missed it but what route did you go for heads?

Dyno day will be exciting.

Chris,
great job on the build… very detailed planning, and well executed. That engine will look great under the hood! I’m interested to see your design for the cold air intake set up.

For what it’s worth, I just bought a T56 Magnum from Hurst (took delivery last week) and it did come with detailed installation instructions for the transmission, wiring, and kit components… but no OEM info from Tremec.

:thumbsup:

Chris, thats some funny $h!t right there, LOL. I hear Greg is holding a seminar on Friday at GNRS with guess appearance from Roger. :poke:

That seminar is gold right there. :lol:

Thanks Dale. :thumbsup: For my MPFI I'm running a carb-style throttle body, so I'll be using the standard 14" air filter element with the drop down base(and offset to the passenger side due to the BBC motor mounts). I'm planning to use something similar to a large cake pan to create an enclosure for the filter that seals against the cowl hood. That way the filter is only pulling in air from the outside. I made one before but it was a little too small and didn't give enough room for the air filter to breathe properly. I've heard that an EFI system can get thrown off when the electric fans come on and start pushing hot air into the air filter, so I wanted to avoid that scenario. The only bad thing about this type of cold air setup is that it covers a lot of the engine. Maybe for car shows where the engine is on display I'll just remove it and run the air filter only.

Hey Rob! Yep, I'm trying to keep up with you guys and your dyno war. :lol: I got a lot of great advice from folks on the heads(thanks!) and some engine builders also and I decided to go with the Brodix Race Rite Ovals(270). Folks have been raving about their flow capabilities given the runner size so I should get the flow I'm looking for and have the great throttle response also. I'm getting the CNC'd bowls option and having the .700 lift springs put on them. They should arrive in about 2 weeks. I'll add them to the stack-o-parts in the garage. Can't wait for late February when I start installing this stuff into the car and see it in the engine bay.

Yep, he's checking the cam. No 4/7 swap. I'll do as much as I can afford with the heads. Money is spiraling out of control on this and I'm basically going broke along with the other stuff my wife and I are trying to accomplish in the kids department. I have to draw the line or else I start to get angry/frustrated about it and then it takes the fun out of it.

Thanks Ron. I think the pic of it all assembled and sitting in my engine bay is going to look a whole lot better. :lol: