Greg - Couldn't find one the went from the 8-AN fuel line to 6-AN carb line. Not happy with the current system, thought about running old fashion steel or synthetic up from the pump. It will change at some point.........

Yeah, I would go steel and keep the lines low, down to a bracket at the front of the block then flex line to electric pump.....like what I did on this 69.... Looking good. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the input Vince. :thumbsup:

I never liked keeping fuel lines that close to the eng. Creates a lot of heat in the fuel...vapor lock. Don't you think?

Thats what I hear but I never had an issue. I like to have at least a 1/2" of air gap space around it. Nothing ever touching.

I think air gap manifolds and a phelonic spacer are the best defense against that.

I remember my Pontiac 400 and the separate lifter valley cover and "air gap" intake to keep the intake charge and quadrajet cool.:cool:

Thinking out loud.........The steel tubing could be wrapped in thermal barrier. That basic design has functioned well on commercial trucks for years w/o thermal protection. The line would be pretty easy to fab and it's cheap, simple and reliable. Synthetic tubing, nipple fittings and Oeticker clamps would be clean and simple too.

very true The reflective stuff works great on wire harnesses. But I remember most of the vapor lock issues back in the 80's were caused by a faulty fuel pump. Reduced fuel pressure plus slow fuel flow equals no cooling leads to vapor lock. Plus I'd take a 195 degree engine block over 800 degree headers any day.



back on track, Did you find a spacer? All I have are 1" ers.

Good points.

I've got three parts shops to check with tomorrow morning. :thumbsup:

You may want to upgrade to PTFE / Teflon hose one day. It last a lot longer and is safer then braided/rubber I just re did all my fuel lines to it


http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/stpg...854f4f508671d3

I trust you and it looked a lot closer in the pics ;)

Here's a little better perspective of the fuel line routing

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-g...-g7dbMLq-L.jpg

Since the parts house website said they opened at 8 this morning and the sign on the door said 9 I headed back and built this starter heat shield.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-P...-PG2tMX3-L.jpg

Back to the parts house we go! Rev's not complaining as it's another RIDE! :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/...1111104045.jpg]

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3...-3gPt7XG-L.jpg

Couldn't get her to light..............http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums...notworking.gif

Best I could get was it to light and blubber while pumping the throttle. Not sure if it's cam timing/ignition/fueling at this point.

It had 7 psi fuel pressure and 40 psi oil pressure. Checked, double and triple checked plug wire routing. I referenced the distributor position as recieved from the shop. Tried lighting it +/- 3/8" advanced and retarded.

Flying the white flag for the rest of the evening :question:

I'll trouble shoot with the shop tomorrow.............better safe than sorry.

Just to satisfy 45% of us, pop that distributor cap off, pull number 1 plug out and give it a finger poof test. Only takes a min.

Might take a bit for the fuel to atomize down there.

Get some sleep.

Checking for compression, fuel, firing order? Haven't done a finger poof test on a car anyway. :D

Haa really? It's always funny seeing someone do the poof test for the first time.
Disable the coil and check for poof while watching the rotor spin. Verify TDC. What about submarine races? Ever been?

Really! I did check the rotor position against the timing mark it was close.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5...-5w5kQnp-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2...-2trLLSd-L.jpg

Did the finger test, it's building compression with the rotor heading to #1. Have to admit I did pull out prematurely when it tried to suck my thumb in. :D

You only have 2-3 DEGREES INITAL ADVANCE? Try putting some more timing in it and fire it up

I have never heard it called The POOF test That's funny

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

Have you verified you are indeed getting spark?

Sounds like you may be retarded. Wait! That didn't come out right. It sounds like the timing is retarded. If it's too advanced it'll back fire through the carb. Burbling seems to be a delayed fire. Also, don't follow the added marks on the distributor base unless you've verified it is indeed lined up with the number 1 electrode on the cap.


^
beat me to it. That's what I get for being a slow typer.

He's good.. he has that writen all over his eng, garage walls and has cheat sheets taped to REV'S collar LOLOL :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

If you're at TDC put the mark on the balancer at 8-12*BTDC then turn your dist until it is phased with the #1 plug post (or that mark you have) on the cap..lock it down and try and start it

lol, ok. I saw it on the cap but hell, I've screwed up and crossed wires before. It's a pain on C2/3 vettes since they route them down and under the manifolds to get to the spark plugs. I got 2 and 4 crossed once and had a hell of a time figuring it out. I double checked wires too. Finally found it after checking yet again.

Those were just proximation photos of rotor and timing marks. As noted I put a Sharpie mark on the distributor and intake to reference where the timing was from the shop. Tried firing it there and tried advancing an retarding in 3-4 small increments (thickness of the Sharpie mark) each way and it didn't want to "catch." Something isn't right, so I retreated. :yes:

Nothing wrong with double checking Wssix I just like picking on him

moving the dist the thickness of a sharpie mark isn't enough

:rofl: Smart A$$

I told the shop 10* initial and that's what it appeared to be. If the distributor is rotated an 1/8" approximately how many degrees is that?

I found it is a little different on every eng, is the dist locked out ?

I was moving it a total 3/8" on each side of the reference point.........not enough possibly?

possibly not. Is it a mech advance dist or is it locked out? Do you have a MSD box?

lol, you weren't kidding. I just went back looking at the other pictures and he does have it written everywhere. Good idea when you don't have it down pat :thumbsup:

Double check spark then advance the crap out of the dist. which is counterclockwise rotation. See if you can get a change in the sound of it cranking to occur. If it back fires, you've gone too far. Looking at the pictures you've shown, unless the cam was very radical, it should have done more than burbled with that timing, IMO.

Make sure the distributors sinched. I've had this issue in the past and one of the symptoms was that when I was trying to fire it, the dist would retard itself by rotating from the vibration...

Mechanical. Set to allow 25* total + initial at 3,500. No box.

Ok that's good

Okay - we'll all just go thru the basics...

Pull the coil wire - and make sure you're actually getting spark

Look into the carb and stab the throttle and see that you're getting gas

While we know you wrote the firing order down...

From #1 - the firing order rotates CLOCKWISE...

This IS A FOUR STROKE ENGINE - so the timing comes around TWICE. The "poof" test is best verified with a valve cover off - watch the valves as you crank the engine over (I use a ratchet on the crank bolt if you don't have a starter button to hook up - this is done easier with no plugs in) - watch the intake open and then as it closes - watch your timing mark and your rotor (cap off!). At ZERO both valves should be closed - the rotor should be at #1.

Then I crank in 10* (your initial) on the timing pointer - and set the distributor so that it's dead on #1 on the cap...

This will set your initial timing so that you're really close. That way when she fires - she'll run real nice and you can just touch up the timing when you get a little heat in the motor and you've made sure everything else is going good.

For clarification it has ran (stubbled fo 15 seconds), but required rapid pumping of the throttle. It's back-fired annd done a few pop! volcanic fireballs, nothing a cotton towel doesn't fix.....and yes 2 extinguishers were close by.

I was wondering if in was 180* out. But not knowing the indicators of 180* out I'm unsure.

Rotor is rotating CW not CCW.....according to firing order CW is correct, fan is turning CCW according to blades is correct.

With all the new parts........could it be a carb issue? The squirters are working, butterflies work through the full range with the throttle pedal, floats are on the high side, front is filling 60% of the sight glass, rear is filling75-80%. I'll back them to down to the 40% mark tomorrow.....but I thought it would light up even if they were on the high side.

Double checked the distributor internals.

I didn't do the ignition wiring or aftermarket harness installation.

If it's 180* out, it won't start it will just backfire, If it's popping, stubbling and spitting and all is good inside eng.. It sounds like timing is to far retarded

Yes the floats are a lil high but as long as gas isnt coming out of the vents it should run for now but fix that issue. And yes the rotor turns CW

Wish I could explain things in writing like Greg :thumbsup:

I wish I was as flexible as Rev too, but it ain't gonna happen. :thumbsup:

Something just doesn't sound right when it's trying to light....out of phase like. I'll drop the floats and see if that changes anything - that would be too easy.

I haven't laughed this hard in a loooooooooooong time :thumbsup:

aww man this is cracking me up....not your problem but the comments. LOL
Verify spark like Greg says. I think he might be spending too much time with the Mustang though. :D
Give that baby some more advance and pop er off. Pull the vac can towards you.

Premature pull out is common first timers. Just don't go too far in or you might lose a finger nail. :rolleyes:

Yes --- CLOCKWISE.... sorry --- I was trying to THINK and type at the same time... the brain had one picture and the fingers typed what I was thinking not to do!

Should have read my own post before hitting submit.:D