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Well since I had the paint out I decided to give the emblems a tune up. See the before and after. So here are the mouldings on the car. Something must be wrong with my camera because the pics suck. Its as best I can do for now. I love it!! Just need the back down about 4" and it will be perfect. http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/3159/stuff039.jpg http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9404/stuff041.jpg http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/935/stuff043.jpg http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6302/stuff044.jpg |
Well I have made a new goal and this one I intend to make. I can't go any deeper without painting it so I should not be doing anything else that will slow me down. Hot Rod Power Tour is just too far away this year so the plan is to take it to Goodguys Nationals in Columbus OH mid July.
Got the rear of the car trimmed out today. Also got the front brakes on the car. I came up with a pretty nice solution for the Ebrake. I originally bought the Lokar universal rear kit and the connector cable for the front designed for thier after market pedal. I wanted to use the original pedal so I figured I would make it work some how. Well the hole in the floor is almost as big as the connector cable end piece. I would have needed to weld up the floor and drill a new hole. Well I thought about the rear cable sleeve and tried it. It worked perfect. I called Lockar and they gave me a part# to order just a rear cable sleeve. Installed with a little strip caulk and its like it came this way. Still have to figure how to mount the cables under the car. I should have that done my next day off. Finally installed the bumper I paid 50.00 extra for a rush jod to be ready by last May. LOL http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5268/stuff048.jpg The calipers will look sweet rolling down the highway. http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/2409/stuff051i.jpg here you can see the difference in the cable end. The bolt style intended for the rear worked perfect. http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7742/stuff052.jpg installed in the firewall factory hole. http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4821/stuff054.jpg |
Finshed up setting up the custom E-brake system with the factory pedal. Works perfect. Ended up making a braket to drop down the front cable bracket so it pulls dead straight on the rear cable brakets. I took lots of consideration and where to run the rear cables so they will move as needed but not get in the way of anything moving in the suspension. I used stainless clamps picked up at a local street rod shop to attach them to the frame. I'm pleased with the looks and function.
The next task was to center the rear with the upper control arms and finally check tire and wheel clearance at full suspention travel and at ride height. Well my home made measuring tool worked like a charm. Wheel wells are as full as they can be and I didn't cut a thing. I may need some very slight clearancing with a hammer on one of the inner wheel wells but I will have to drive it to see first. Of course I had to snap a shot of the future ride stance. http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3500/stuff060o.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7751/stuff061.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/424/stuff062.jpg |
Well todays update should really be called a back date because I made major negative progress.
I made my last brake lines that go from the master to the prop. valve on the frame. Also made a small bracket that bolts to the pedal bracket stud on the firewall to keep the lines from getting in to the steering colum or clutch linkage. All is well so far. Things went down hill from there. http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6273/stuff068.jpg This the first time I have ever used stainless line. I had heard its a little harder to to get to seal but I had no idea how bad it was going to be. I started to bleed the brake lines and saw some fluid dripping on the floor from the prop. valve. I then start looking close at all the connections and more than 1/2 of them are leaking to one extent or another. :( I manage to to get most of them sealed up by tightening and loosening several times but some the the lines on the prop valve I could not get to without removing the starter which it the big PITA with the lakewood scatter shield. To remove the starter I had to disconnect the clutch linkage too. I got the last of the lines sealed up and a nice hard pedal so it was time to put it all back together. When I got to the clutch linkage I noticed the fork was kind of flopping around like the spring had slid off the ball. No big deal slid it back right? NOT!! I tried for 5 min feeling for it with the fork to slid it on but it never would catch. I finally resorted to a light and a mirror so I could see up in there and could believe my eyes. There was no spring clip. Brand new fork and the spring had broken off at the rivet :mad: Now the motor has to come out again which is not a huge deal in itself but I have to wait for another fork to be shipped to me. At this point I needed to just get away so I took the wife and daughter to the park for a couple hours. We got back and I wanted to get a little more done before it got dark. I was bolting down one of the front seats and I over did it on one of the studs. POP!!! Its broke now the carpet has to come out on the drivers side so I can weld a new stud. Its just wasn't my day. |
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As for all the difficulties, been there! I once installed a new oil pump on my old Chevy 409, a job that necessitated pulling the engine. As I was tightening the alternator belt, I spotted the oil pump drive shaft sitting on the bench... Wasn't a good day. Shiny Side Up! Bill |
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Doing a search I came across Jeff Lilly Restoration web site. It shows to use the copper washers on stainless lines and they seal right up. from his site 33. These tiny copper gaskets go in between the fittings and flare for that extra margin of sealing. When doing stainless lines this is where they shine as you do not have to tweak the line wrench so hard to get a proper seal. http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication...e-lines/33.JPG |
keep us posted I want to see more build pics good job.:thumbsup:
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Got a day off today and I am exteemly pissed right now. I never was happy with the factory exhaust manifolds. They looked OK from a distance but had some deep pits that bothered me. I pulled the trigger and bought a new set from Parts Place. These are sold as performance manifolds for duals made like the ones X/W for the factory big block. I know these are pretty new to the market but I must be the first person to ever get a set. There sure didn't spend much time R/D.
I put the LH one on first and it seems to fit fine. I then went to the RH side and it started snugging up and I was still seeing daylight under the gasket. At first I though it was warped but after getting under the car I saw the problem. The manifold was completely up against the top bolt of the oil filter adapter. I pulled it back off and removed the bolt to see how much clearance I needed. With the bolt removed it would seal up but the manifold was still touching the oil filter adapter. At this point I should have just boxed them up and send them back but I really don't have time for delays right now so I decided to just make it work. I cut down the housing a little and used a counter sink bit and cut a recess in the housing and used a countersink bolt. I still had to grind on the manifold and good bit to gain some minimal clearance. Here you can see no bolt installed and it still hits http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7494/stuff082.jpg A little bit of home brewed machine work on the adapter http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7980/stuff084.jpg Oh the fun of grinding on new parts http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9480/stuff085.jpg Now we have a little clearance. Not optimal but it will work. http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8526/stuff086.jpg I thought the problems were behind me getting the RH side ironed out but I was very wrong. Tonight I went to put the starter back on and only the inside bolt would go in. The starter still needs to rotate out and good bit to install the bolt. Well after looking up to see the problem I about went throug the roof. You guessed it. The LH side was crammed up agaist the starter. The is no amout of grinding or clearancing that will let it work with my original starter. See how the starter still needs to rotate out at least another 1/4" or so. http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6233/stuff090.jpg Not gonna happen with this exhaust in place. http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6550/stuff092.jpg Don't get me wrong I don't mind making things work its all about building a hot rod but these are designed and casted completly wrong. When I saw the LH side I was about sick at my stomach and just had to come inside before I started throwing things. Finshing up with a few pics of progress. Engine is about finished up the core support and new mid 80's Suburban radiator that drops right in to the original saddles with no modification at all. http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5255/stuff088.jpg http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6433/stuff089g.jpg |
Sorry to hear about your problems with the manifolds. If it's any consolation, the car is looking great!
Shiny Side Up! Bill |
Sorry to hear of your probs. with those manifolds. That sucks when you end up having to re-engineer something that should be a bolt-in. Are you going to end up using a newer style high-torque starter or could you machine up a manifold spacer to fit between the manifold and the head to give some more clearance? On another note, the car looks fantastic as it's coming together. With the trim and the rear bumper and lights installed, that is one sharp Oldsmo-touring ride............:thumbsup:
Paul |
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