I know. :sieg: Just sayin'.....Might make more sense if they changed the name to OUSTCC. Street/Track :headscratch:

You had your chance... I wasn't ready either but the glass slipper only comes around so often. :D

I bet you the car that won last year drives more comfortably down the road than my daily driver.

When's your car getting a cup holder? You should probably add two so no one gives you a hard time about the doors.

You guys are out of my league. Cup holders would put me over budget :lol:

HEY! :confused59: I resemble that.......I like cup holders

Hey, I didn't say I didn't like them.......they are simply just not in the budget.

If any of you guys have ever seen my car before you know that there is absolutley no flare in the interior nor under the hood.

Simplified.......heading that direction is not even remotely close to being in the budget.

yeah, I bet i'd crap then have a heart attack if you ever agreed to let me put an LS in it. LOL

C'mon Vince, you know where I'm at. I'm not that educated about the LS motor but I feel an LS build in my budget range would be a great street motor. From what I hear making those things track worthy is not cheap.

Now on the other hand, a nice, fuel efficient LS for the white '69 is not out of the question.

Um... hello? :hello:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-DRI...57322d&vxp=mtr

Dave to the rescue :thankyou:

Thanks buddy. Now all I need is a dash pad and a little carpet work and I should fit right in. :lol:

I think these things are pretty cool actually and hey they are functional! :idea:

Who needs a stinkin dash pad.... or even a dash? :D

It's not real pro touring if it doesn't have cup holders.....

Thanks for the validation Greg :beathorse :lol:

Pretty trying day. I spent ours driving to four different auto parts stores and couldn't find a piston stop. Even though absolute TDC was already determined by the previous engine builder I wanted to verify this on my own. This would also give me some peace of mind when degreeing the cam. Being short on time I decided to go with what I had. I through the balancer on and verified TDC through the balancer and pre adjusted timing tab. Then I proceeded to clean my rocker arms and verify that they were not damaged when the timing chain broke. The first thing I noticed while cleaning the rocker arms was the marring on the underside. A couple severe ones and most of them with moderate marring and a few slightly marred. In addition the roller tip on #5 intake was no longer rolling, the roller shaft on #7 intake was not rolling, and there was some resistance in the rocker shaft for #3 exhaust. Figured it was time to order 3 rocker arms and called it a day.

Here are a few pics of my son degreasing and cleaning my intake and the rocker arms.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132001.jpg

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132007.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132008.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132009.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132006.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132005.jpg

I hate days like that! :warning:

My kids are so busy with thier own cars to help out dear old dad. I gotta do all the dirty work myself! Cupholders? I just used a holesaw on my trans tunnel that fits my big gulp cup and called it a day!

Appears to me that you have contact with the retainer.... Not an uncommon issue with the aluminum rocker arms.


Make sure you check the rocker arm to retainer clearance. There should be at least .040” to .050” clearance at the closest point under the rocker arm and the top of the retainer.



http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...os/file-24.gif

Yeah, sucks a little more only because I dont have time to work on it during the week so I lose a week. Plan was to have her wrapped up this weekend.

Sounds like you got an early start Mills. My kids are 10, 12, & 14 and this is a great time. I'm trying to spend as much time with them now before they dont want to hang out with Dad anymore.
I heard that if your cup holder can hold a big gulp your a shoe in for OUSCC. :lol:



Question is if the timing chain breaking had something to do with it......:headscratch:
Another thing is when the builder sent the heads back he sent them back with lash caps. I dont ever remember having lash caps but when I test fit the rocker arm with the lash cap I gained the clearance I needed.

Here's the pic's with and without lash caps.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132002.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...ld20132003.jpg

Lash caps are a must for high revving motors to protect the valve tip.

The question is, were the push rods spec'd with or without lash caps?

Not sure I consider 6500 high reving Greg. In addition lash caps are used to correct drive train geometry.

In order to reach a conclusion I imagine would probably have to put together all the variables and do the math.....how much was removed from the deck of the block, piston to deck dimension, valve stem length, spring assembled height, push rod length, gasket thickness, piston to valve clearance, etc, etc..
As soon as I get the other three rocker arms I'll run the drive train through it's motions and do a little more investigating.

^^^THIS^^^

It's not the proper way... but sometimes you have to grind some on alum rockers to clearence big OD retainers and springs Or install lash caps or longer tipped valves or different retainers if "installed hights" can still be achieved correctly

[QUOTE=Track Junky;471873]

Question is if the timing chain breaking had something to do with it......:headscratch:

If you're asking If the rockers hitting the retainers due to chain breakage The answer is...very unlikely..Hard to tell by the pics, Those look like they've been hitting for a while




What exactly are you trying to figure out?? PM me if you like

------------------------------------------------------------------

In this pic, is the roller on the rocker that far back on the valve tip w/ the valve closed, is there lash?? If so your push rods are wrong or that rocker is hitting the retainer and pushing it back

Here is a dumb video but will give you an idea
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnS46ahJVqI

A couple of write ups

http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-...rods%27-0.aspx

http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...h/viewall.html


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/...ps94ed6cb9.jpg

Lol! Think I'll put one in just for fun! My two boys are 21 and 19, We have more fun now than when they were young! Only the toys cost a bit more! Each has a Honda track only car, plus a few other DD's Grandpa owns a Honda Stealership, I ain't got that kinda cash! Hope you get the motor done today. I don't know how many days I've wasted running around sat looking for parts/tools!

I hope you're just going to set the head on the block and use a push rod checker to check for the proper length.... At least that's how I check for proper VALVE TRAIN (I use a different tool for DRIVE trains) geometry. No real math needed using a push rod checker.

[quote=intocarss;471936]It's not the proper way... but sometimes you have to grind some on alum rockers to clearence big OD retainers and springs Or install lash caps or longer tipped valves or different retainers if "installed hights" can still be achieved correctly

Thank Jer, I was not aware that engine builders sometimes have to grind on the rocker arms.

Thanks Jer :thumbsup:

Thanks Greg. I will order that tool this morning :thumbsup:

Just hopeing a longer pushrod will allow me to grab enough of the rocker stud. Current pushrods are 8.00 in length.

I believe those marks are from clearencing done by the machinist. But I do see one that looks stressed. I think its the one that Greg sees too. Remember this engine was rotated with a few valves stuck down. Could explain this.

Inspect them Geatano and replace or fix the ones that look hammered.

pretty easy to check push rod with white grease and a caliper. if need be buy longer studs

Here is a better view with the spec'd .026 lash. I used a sharpie to black out the top of the lash cap and verify where the roller tip was engaging the lash cap. Looks like it is just behind center.
At this time I'm grabbing about 3/8"-7/16" of the rocker arm bolt.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...igation001.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...igation004.jpg

What's it look like without lash?

Got a little motivated and decided to adjust all the valves that I could minus the 3 rocker arms I am replacing that should arrive on Tuesday. I use the quarter crank turn method to adjust valves and decided to put the degree wheel to work for accuracy. Bolted a clothes hanger wire at the water pump boss, installed the degree wheel, and set up the clothes hanger pointer to point to zero. With #1 at TDC I adjusted the intake and exhaust valves with spec'd lash, turned the crank 90*, and then moved on to #8 and so on. The cam I am using has an LS firing order. It has 108 lobe seperation and intake center line is at 104. That means that if I was to line up the dots of the crank and cam gears(setting the cam straight up) I would already be 4* advanced. Advance will give you a little more torque on the bottom end and retarded will shift power to the top end. The beauty of this belt drive set up is that I can adjust up to 4* either way on the fly. Just need to loosen the four bolts on the cam cover and rotate left or right. Degreeing in the cam is best done on a dyno and dialed in for your desired rpm range. I am going to set it up 2* advanced for now per engine builders specs. Once all rockers are installed I'll recheck valve train geometry. Then it will be off to the dyno.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...Valves1003.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/a...Valves1005.jpg

Did you find a dyno tuner or are we going to Pecavar?

Need a phone number for Pecavar. Considering Watson also. I'd like to take a little field trip and visit the both of them. Not a whole lot of info on the web about either of them.

just sent you an email

Gaetano,
So did you ever get your motor on the dyno ?
Did you have to clearance any of the rockers?
Shane

Hi Shane, haven't been updating due to my personal lap top crashing and my only access is the desk top at work.
Joe met me at Vinces Friday night and he told me he wouldn't dyno tune the motor without verifying T.D.C and where the cam was at so we pulled the head off again and Joe and I degreed the cam on Saturday. Dyno rescheduled for May 4th.

Where is this dyno, G?

You got a number you are looking for? Don't lie.... :D

I told the company I'm working for that my personal lap top crashed so they shipped me one.:thumbsup:

Dave, dyno is in San Mateo. Joe and I were talking about the numbers the engine was originally putting out and he says he can get me more. We are scheduled to dyno next weekend. We will be making some changes next season. Initially it will be camshaft.....the rest will depend on the budget at the time.

Come to find out, Joe made it to the final four in Pinks when they were out at Sonoma Raceway.

BTW, it's not the horsepower you will need to worry about....it will be the weight :unibrow:

Oh I know... and that pesky driver too. :walkingdog:

What's your weight down to these days? (not yours, the car) :D

3030 lbs for now.........should be a scoshe(spell check?) over 2800 by the time your car will be done next season :unibrow:

I'm chompin at the bit to get out this season:hairpullout:........