What fuel pump is being used and how is it driven?

If money were NO concern? I would definitely do a full chassis that was fully designed and engineered. Optimize everything and get the packaging just right. Redesign all the driveline while I was at it. Do all the FEA to make it as light and stiff as possible. Oh and if money were of NO concern I would do a full carbon fiber body to boot.

But then you need to ask your self my favorite Charlie question - "Then what are you gong to do with it".

Cruiser, Track Monster, Both...

At GM we have VTS - (Vehicle Technical Specifications) it has things like:

0-60 times
1/4 mile times
Top Speed
Fuel Economy
Interior Cabin Noise
Wind Noise
Exhaust Tone and Sound Level
Tire Wear
Stopping Distance
Ride Quality
Track Lap Times
Cooling Specs
Towing Capability
Etc.....

Which ones do you want to optimize? We have a teams of people at GM that work for years on this stuff.

You can not have a S-Class Mercedes ride and a Corvette ZR-1 lap times. Hard to violate the laws of physics.

Pro - It would be great! Could spend the time to get a optimized chassis and driveline.

Con - Time and Money, and you will be disappointed when you are done unless you do your own VTS.

Just my two cents.

Mark

:topic:

Off the shelf Hooker Black Heart header!

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Those headers look really good for an off the shelf.

ARP loves you. Bob's a good friend to have. :thumbsup:

Carl we have spoken before and I’m sure Rodney has at rods car craft in Wylie Tx. Dual 450 pumps, ricks billet hat, returnless, your lt4 controller splitting the gray wire I think that is twisted in the gmpp harness

So back to the i.r.s question, would you recommend doing a irs "kit' swap using c6 subframe to a 70 A body

Mark,

I noticed that your rear brake caliper is mounted at the 9 o'clock position, if you were looking at it from the driver's side.

Is there a reason you do this? Any benefit or added performance from the caliper being mounted there instead of the usual 2-3 o'clock position?

Thanks!

Nope


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This is the drivers side


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Is that just the way the Brembos mount? I'm used to seeing them more towards the rear on the other side of the axle.

Does mounting like that have any advantage or is it just cosmetic/packaging, brake line routing friendly?

It is usually just a packaging issue. Mine are in the front of axle position due to the way I designed the park brake.

I’m sure if I did a deep Engineering analysis there is an optimal solution. For my builds it is packaging.

I do know on the front and most likely for the rear caliper. Having rearward will help brake pad cooling.


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Thank you.

Could you share what you're doing for a parking brake, how they're mounted and how you routed your cables?

The evolutionary process.... Mark started out building "Nice" Street Race cars...... He is now building Riddler quality Street Race cars......

We will post picture when we get there. But stock park brake pedal and C6 park brakes in the rotor hats.


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Awesome, looks so good in there!

Thank you for posting the pics of your oil cooler lines. Looks like there's plenty of room on the side of the block and that adapter above the oil filter fits nicely.

So sweet!!

Congratulations on the new GM Racing position
 

Mark, congrats on the new role. I've always felt that you lived and breathed GM performance (and really ALL aspects of automotive performance)........ You've contributed so much to the hobby that we all love so much. Congratulations to you, and I am sure that those of us in the hobby are wishing you and your team all the best.

To hold fuel pressure at key-off an inline check valve will be needed. The bypass in the Rick's hat will drain off fuel in the line.

Camaro LT5
 

You may recall earlier we added a oil to oil diff cooler. This is the Gen 5 ZL1 diff cooler.

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These are the cooling lines that move the transmission fluid. It is a loop. There is a electric pump that circulates the trans fluid through a oil to water heat exchanger in the radiator then the chilled trans fluid gets pumped back to the diff. It goes though a oil to oil heat exchanger then back to the trans. This is how GM does it in production except the trans pump is built into the transmission.

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The line pass thought the DSE rear crossmember then go through the passenger rocker. Keeps the packaging clean and the line protected.


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Love that oil cooler setup. Quite a bit of fab but turned out phenomenal.

next Mark is going to tell us the pump only comes on when required by temp lol

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Random AN hoses


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What hose are you using, Mark. I see it's Earls. I'm not familiar with a grey hose from them, though.

The car is coming together great and looking phenomenal as always.

I love the look of that hose, can't afford the crimper... :ohsnap:

https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/...evlar_braided/

Several brands carry the same hose under different names btw. Fragola Race-Rite Pro is what I went with on the my builds. The crimper and required dies, tooling, etc are certainly an investment but the time that it saves assembling hoses pays off in the long run. The performance, durability, flexibility (bend radius), flow and light weight of the hose made it worth it to me. The Pro or Extreme add an externally wound stainless steel wire that provides vacuum support and tighter bend capability.

Fragola Race Rite & Race Rite Pro
Brown & Miller Pro Gold Aramid Braid
Earl's Ultra Flex Kevlar Braided
XRP ProPlus Race Hose & ProPlus Extreme

The hose is $24.00 a foot and you're worried about the crimper? (Although I didn't look at the price of the crimper...):G-Dub:

Crimper is $3grand

And the crimper dies are about $450 each. You need about 4 of them to cover most of the sizes.

:wow::wow:....:faint::faint:

Yeah, that would be a deal breaker for most anyone. Man, this hobby gets pricier every day if you want the good stuff! Take Lillard money to play!!:G-Dub:

If I had a shop building cars that could use their hose and fittings it'd be a worthwhile investment for sure, very cool stuff. But $5K for a crimper and dies to use a few times is tough.

Wouldn't surprise me if one of the many awesome members here offered to support your build by crimping your ends for you. (Hint hint):gitrdun:

Now, you just gotta pop for the 'spensive hose. That is, unless you can find a grateful vendor to help out. (Hint hint).:thumbsup:

The fabricator I have doing the work on my car has one of these and only charges a couple bucks to assemble the hoses. The fittings aren't too crazy expensive, but the hose is! I thought of having him do this for me when I get to that stage, I wouldn't need much!

I don't need so much hose that it'd be a deal breaker, kinda solidifies me doing more hard lines lol. But I'd need to find someone local to crimp them, or a nice Lat G member... :thumbsup:

Jody mark out clocking of the fittings and ship them to me and I will crimp all your lines

Goodridge 910
 

Isn't the hose Goodridge 910?

Yes with variations in the sheathing stripe colors or just plain black Aramid. Also Fragola Race-Rite Pro has an additional variation that I not sure what Goodrich number it crosses to.

Fragola Race Rite Pro: Convoluted exterior with added Spiral Wire increases hoop strength to prevent hose sucking shut under high vacuum. Spiral wire provides an even better bend radius.