Wait til you own a Freightliner! I just had the 10,000 mile oil and filters done... it holds 10 GALLONS of oil in the crankcase... and the service was almost $500 -- but that included 2 gallons of Lucas Oil (20% is all they recommend). LOL



The dry sump system looks good Dale!

Just read the entire build thread. Great write-up and very detailed. Awesome job!

Pure function, f'n awesome Dale. I'll bet you loved buying all those -AN fittings :lol:

Thank you for documenting! :cheers:

Looks great Dale. :thumbsup:

Do you have before and after engine, trans, dry-sump weights for the car?

Thank you Jeff! By the way I really like the wheel choice on your build... Very nice.

Thank you Greg… appreciate the compliment.

I need to buy oil by the gallon, and you need to buy it by the barrel, Lol.

I think it’s great what you are doing... traveling around… working on builds... enjoying life… having fun. That's what it's all about. Glad to see you have a nice rig now :thumbsup:

:relax:


Thanks Jay! I’ve been following your build also… very nice work.

No problem Ron… all I can say is that I am very glad to be done with the dry sump plumbing… It took me over three weeks in my spare time to do all the plumbing. There were times when It just didn't seem possible to fit all the lines... but I stuck with it and in the end it worked out. I spent several thousand dollars on the tank, hoses, and AN fittings. The 16 AN fittings and stainless braided hose is very expensive.

“Pure Function” almost sounds like it could be my car build name.

:cheers:


Thank you Sieg :thumbsup:

Going from a cast iron gen 1 small block with aluminum heads, cast iron PS pump, and full size steel starter….. to the aluminum LS block, KRC light weight PS pump, and mini starter, I was able to reduce the weight of the engine by over 90 LB.

The difference in weight between the Muncie 4 speed (85 LB) and T56 Magnum (115 LB) six speed is approx 30 LBS… so overall I reduced the total weight of the car by about 60 LBS and shifted the weight back some.

I don't have the weight of the car with the old set up... but I did weigh the car with the new LS engine and T56 transmission. The total weight with fuel was 3,470 LB... front 1,840 LB and rear 1,630 LB (53% front, 47% rear). Do you know the weight on your car?

Dale, thanks for posting all the photos and details. Very nicely done.

:thumbsup:

Dale - Before alum heads with 1/2 tank and me in it 3460# on public truck scale.

I was curious how much those dry sump lines and 3.5 gal. of oil added.

Can't wait to see and hear your car in person. :thumbsup:

Glad to share the info on here... I know that your are looking at putting a dry sump tank in the trunk... so far the trunk set up is working great. It's a bit of extra plumbing but it's nice to have the extra room under the hood.

Thanks Sieg... I'm looking forward to meeting up with you and some other lat-g guys out at Beaches in June! I would be curious what your weight distribution is compared to mine... our cars are very similar other than I have the aluminum block.

dry sump pump system install
 

Plumbing from the oil pan to the dry sump pump...

The three 10AN scavenge lines from the oil pan are routed to the driver side of the engine and then up towards the front of the car. The three lines make a loop and then go back to the three scavenge sections on the bottom of the dry sump pump.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps95f92926.jpg


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http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6542ac0e.jpg


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On the top side of the dry sump pump a single 16AN line goes back to the tank mounted in the trunk (the 90 deg fitting on the right).

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3c56a21.jpg


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd0e11fac.jpg


There is a screen type filter in the 16AN line going back to the tank in the trunk. The screen filter prevents debris from entering the tank.

dry sump pump pressure line
 

The pressure line from the dry sump pump goes into a remote mount oil filter. I bought a billet aluminum filter mount from Moroso and built a custom bracket that bolts on using the same bolts that hold on the hood hinge... this worked good... the mount is very solid and I didn't have to drill holes in the firewall or inner fender.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2044c40.jpg


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The pressure line exits the oil filter and is plumbed into a port at the back of the block.
I ran a tee of the main line line with a 3AN fitting and hose to my oil pressure gauge inside the car.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps18a89e23.jpg


This pic shows the pressure line going into the port at the back of the engine block

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cc072fd.jpg


That's it for the dry sump plumbing :headspin:

I would say that installing the dry sump system was much more work than I expected. It took several weeks after I installed the engine to mount the oil tank in the trunk and complete all the plumbing.

I decided to go with the dry sump so I could track the car and know that my engine would always have a good oil supply while cornering. The dry sump system should help to extend the life of the engine.

I know lots of guys on here run dry sump systems on their engines. I have not seen too much info on dry sump systems with the tank installed in the trunk. So far this has worked out good. The engine builder had lots of experience with this type of set up and said it would be no problem at all as long as all of the lines and tank are sized properly.

Glad I'm done with this part of the project... :D :lateral: