You guys are doing an awesome job Wayne. Nice to see the updates brother. Keep up the great work.:cheers:

Awesome. I have the same rear end.

Cars looking good

Wow--lots of progress--and it all looks awesome! Especially love the rear end setup--those Fab 9 housings are killer looking---I should know, I have one--lol

What's next on the list?

D

Wayne,It's coming very nice.:thumbsup:

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Coming along very nice :cheers:

Thanks everone I appreciate you checking in.
Doug; next will be the bracket to hold the proportioning block. Not too sure about after that. :willy:

Well the master for the clutch was a tight fit. Tried mounting it in the spot Kiesler suggested but with my Hydro boost it would not fit. I had to move it to wards the drivers side a little and down a touch. Then I installed the line for the throw out bearing before I bolted it up. The rod to the clutch pedal was still in line with the master so it should be good.
Here are a few pictures
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...l/000_1068.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...l/000_1067.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...l/000_1070.jpg
The cap screw is pretty close to the brake pedal but has enough room.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...l/000_1071.jpg

We also threw in the steering column temporarily.

There ya go Wayne! I knew you could solve it!

:thumbsup: :cheers:

You're quite an inspiration Wayne. Very cool to see your progress. :thumbsup:

Glad you got it worked out
 

the simplest stuff is always such a pain.

car is really looking good,like that rearend

Great Job! :cheers:

Good progress on your rolling jigsaw puzzle Wayne. :cool:

Looking good Wayne. Nice to see the updates.

Looking good!
 

Nice to see things coming together, Wayne. Thx for the updates.

Ric

Thanks every body. Saturday I went out an finished the Dynamat behind the pedals on the fire wall. Today we started the wiring. We installed the fuse block and laid out some of the dash wiring.
We also put the rear end back in the car. We noticed the top shock mount looks like its not letting the bolt go straight through the end of the shock. I'll go take a picture and post it now.

If you look at the rubber in the shock mount where the bolt goes through you can see what I'm talking about. If I disconnect the bottom of the shock and tighten the top the shock will angle away from the bottom mount. Its like they are not in line with each other.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...S/000_1075.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...S/000_1076.jpg
These two pictures are with the top and bottom bolts through but not tight.
I think its because the frame rails and the cradle have a little different shape where they mount together.
Let me know what you think.

That can be remedied by moving your rear end back or you pinion angle down. It's a little extreme for my taste. Clearly, I wouldn't move it if it's where it belongs. These setups should've never been engineered with a poly bushing. They need spherical bearings and that's another option if it ends up being a CAR problem.

Wayne, those last couple pictures remind me of a few other G-Bar/Prodigy bar setups I've seen. Dougie Fresh misted my car with shock fluid on a road trip, and it was because the shock had been side loaded. Gregg B (Gandalf) had a very similar issue, possibly the same issue. When Gregg was trouble shooting the issue, he was told to adjust it by changing the pinion angle, then by having different length control arms built if the former solution failed, which it did. Ultimately it was determined to be a problem with the bracketry on the housing.

Hopefully your situation can be fixed easily.

Keep pluggin' away!

Matt

Todd is correct. I hope pinion angle will fix this but Im afraid there may be too much angle. I would go with the spherical bearing solution also.

I doubt the pinion angle is set because the engine and trans have never been put in the car sense the work was done. I'll wait to see how it looks when we get that far then deal with it.

Today we fit the DSE battery hold down in the trunk and put the flaming river kill switch in temporarily. They will need to come out to paint the trunk later on.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...L/000_1080.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...L/000_1081.jpg

I was thinking of using this fuse link for the by pass to keep memory on radio and ECU with a 5 amp fuse in it. I like the one AAW has with the breaker that resets itself but a little expensive.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...L/000_1082.jpg

Here's the AAW auto reset jumper $24
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...CAL/500778.jpg

The fuse holder style is all I've ever used wayne -- it works perfectly. Just remember to keep a bunch of replacement fuses handy because you forget and jump in and hit the key - and badaboom - the fuse is GONE...

Ask me how I know?!?!:willy: :D

Wayne -- I'd adjust the pinion angle UP 2 or 3* and see if that helps with the shock mount issue. You'll ultimately need to set this when the motor etc and with the car fully weighted... but this would at least let you see if that is going to be something of a cure.


I would ASSume you're motor is going to be set with a 3* down angle... and that would have the pinion angle "nose high" approximately the opposite 2 to 3*

Right now the car is up on jack stands so I don't think I can set it until its on the wheels? Correct?

Set the jackstands under the axle....

The axle will still roll on the stands so you can mess with it. If it's all nicely painted put some rags on the jackstands.

Nice work Wayne, keep it up. Your going to have a ride you can be proud of when done :thumbsup:

Good luck Wayne. I hope you find a fix for this problem.

I did some work in the trunk. I painted the black/Aqua spatter paint, and touched up the sound deadening/under coat on the inside of the quarters. Here are some pictures.
This is a picture of the over spray inside the trunk.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...E/000_1084.jpg
Now with the touch up
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...E/000_1088.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...E/000_1089.jpg
And now with the spatter paint. It still has some light spots, one of the cans the paint didn't all come out.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...E/000_1090.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...E/000_1091.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...E/000_1092.jpg
I already ordered more paint from Eastwood to finish up. The the clear will go on.
When you paint something that is galvanized do you have to remove it before painting, or is there an adhesion promoter you can use. Its for the floor plugs.
Thanks

Lookin' good! I wish I was that far along

trunk looks real good Wayne and so does the rest of your work

Nice work Wayne

Hey Wayne,
Just a heads up , the Eastwood clear is a very high gloss. It may not be what you are looking for. I was not overly happy with mine. I liked the semi flat look that it had before I cleared it.

Thanks every body for kind words.
G356 I'll do a test area to see how it looks. Thanks

Good job Wayne!
Do you think you'll have the car done for this coming summer?

Looking good Wayne! :thumbsup:

Wayne, just make sure to use an etch primer before you paint the plugs or it will fail down the road.

Looking great Wayne!! Keep the updates coming!! :thumbsup:

Wow...just read all 61 pages. :faint: I want more! :lol:

Great to see you really going after it and getting things done.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks everyone! I'm waiting on some small parts and my buddy who is helping me has some stuff to do to his car he changing from a spool to a posi unit in his Camaro. So as long as he needs to work on his car I'll be there if he needs me even just to hand him tools.
I needed some end lugs for my battery cables. I went to two electrical supply houses and neither had them. I couldn't believe it. So I tried Home depot and Lowe's two ace hardware stores. Nothing! I had to order them on line.
I worked in construction and we would kick them out of the way on the floors before the electricians cleaned up for the day. so it was hard to believe no one had any.I even stopped a electrical contractor still a no go.
Curtis Thanks and I wish you had to read 20 more pages it would mean I would be closer to the first start up.lol

Nice trunk Wayne