That. I don't start fans until 200-205. I want to stay off the thermostat.

Is there a 'how to' remove pins from the round Yazaki connector?

I should make one. The white cap pops off...then the release tabs for the terminals are accessible.

Thanks! Worked perfectly.

Now on to another issue. Everything hooked up and tune modified with the same settings as in this thread in an early post for my E67. As soon as I plug the main connector to the PWM in with the car off, the fans immediately turn on. This on a cold non running car. While it was sealed and looked new, the bottom does have a slight 'burned electronics' smell. These modules are supposed to have fail safe provisions built in. I wonder if this unit failed and is now in a default always on state despite no signal. Turning the car on makes no change. Scanning shows the fan off until around 198 when the monitor line switches to 'on'. I tested this without the fans operating to get it to temp.

I don't have another unit to swap in to see if the module has failed, nor do I have an oscilloscope.

Worse yet (or better now in the garage) I found a very small pinhole in the core of the radiator. Griffin sucks!

I accidentally hooked up the power side to the controller backwards. The fan would run all the time...and then it eventually smoked the controller. Might want to double-check that. If you smoked the controller, time to get the Volt fans.

I just double checked everything and realized a stupid mistake on my part-I think. The PWM signal is likely ground in a wave. I grounded all the grounds together to the body. In other words, I took both black wires from the module and both of my fan grounds all to the same point on the body. I undid the grounds and the fans no longer come on immediately, but no fans despite the command in the tune at ECT. I do believe the module is fried and the leak is getting worse.


I plugged the SS fan in to the round Yazaki connector and it came on immediately with the car off as a pusher. So the input for that module is reverse of what the C6 controller is.

I hooked up the SS fan with the correct (reversed from C6 module) input, fired up the car and the fans came on slowly at around 198 or so. They got slightly quicker as it got to 209 but I didn't go any further because of the leak and the fact that fan assembly was just leaning against the car. You couldn't hear them but the airflow at that low speed was nice.

My C6 module has to be fried. The SS one would take some work to put in it's place. It has Yazaki connectors on all three sides. One in and one for each fan.

Either way I need to make a decision on the radiator.

So frustrating!

Go junk yard hunting for a Ford Fusion at the local junk yard and score yourself a C6 fan controller. Should be about $30.

Andrew

I thought some of you might like seeing PWM fan control in action.



Andrew

So I have the Holley Dominator EFI and a Ron Davis radiator with dual Spal brushed fans. What else would be needed to make this work?

Depending on which Spal fans you have you, you might be able to use one C6 fan controller for both. If the combined amp draw of both fans exceeds 32 amps, you will need two C6 fan controllers.

By the time you get two controllers (unless you want to go junk car hunting...the Ford Fusion used the same controller) you might be better off selling the fans you have and going with the new brushless fans.

The C7 fan should fit a Chevelle radiator size well or perhaps the Chevrolet Volt dual 12" setup. The new fans have the controllers built in. I have several customers using the C7 fan and Holley EFI. The C7 fan is 600 watts and the Volt fans are 300 watts each.

I plan on updating the GTO this spring and will likely use the Volt fans.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew. My plan was to use the PWM controller that Northern Radiator sells with development from Carl at Vaporworx. It will work with everything I already have. Do love the idea of PWM fan control, wish that Holley had it built into their ECU; they have controls for nearly everything else lol.

Carl's controller is a standalone unit and so it doesn't need anything from the Holley EFI.

Correct.

Correct. I was hoping that the Holley could do it, but if I have to buy a controller and possibly change fans it's easier to use Carls setup.

So after re-reading all 58 pages of this thread is there a consensus on if a late (2019-20) version GMPP connect & cruise E67 will work ? The last failed or maybe frustrating is a better term, efforts were back in 2017 if memory serves.

Has anyone had success lately? And if so, what was the fix? Other than of course sourcing a junkyard E67?

Thanks
Mike

So touching on the whole E67 GMPP ECM's being unable to run PWM fans, is this specific to that older version of the ECM? (12636660)

My ECU is GM PN 19354333, does anyone know if they made revisions to the software that now allows PWM control of the fans?

I never attempted it again. Even with on/off fan control I have been using Dakota Digital controllers instead of the ECU as the existing strategy in the ECU is so colossally dumb and cannot be changed.

Current (2021) GMPP E92 PWM possible or not?
 

So, this is a very long thread, but a question that still isn't clear to me is whether a current GM LT4 Crate harness with E92 can support PWM? It appears that only fan relay control is provided (from instruction manuals). Can a PWM signal be pirated off the harness for SPAL brushless fan control somehow? :)

Andrew, is this not the same as what you did with my Term X and my Spal brushless? Or something completely different and I should delete this.. lol

When using the brushless fan with the built in controller, you can go directly from the Holley to the fan signal wire.

Andrew

Can someone confirm the part number for suitable fans to use with Holley EFI

What are the suitable fan options? C7 Corvette and any thing else.

This is for my 71 Blazer, but may also update on my 72 C10

thanks

There are many brushless fans that will work with the Holley EFI. It would be helpful to know the size of the core of the radiator you are using. On my 70 GTO I am using the dual Chevy Volt fans that fit the 26x18X core very nicely.

Andrew

The core size is 16-1/8" H x 28-3/8" W. I have a preference to run a single fan

Will be using a Holley Terminator Stealth

The C7 fan should fit your core nicely and will work very well.

Andrew

Is this the one I should order, Part No 84486698?

https://sdparts.com/i-24135048-genui...iator-fan.html

thanks

That is the one...

Andrew

For any of you with an E67 from an 09' vehicle, here is what changes I made to finally get the C7 PWM fan to work.

1. I changed the OS from 09' CTS-V to an 09' ZR1

I did confirm through a document on the EFI Live forum that the 2 OS's are compatible.

*no matter what i did with the CTS-V calibration, I could not get a output signal from X3-49*

2. I changed fan settings to PWM Electric 100hz

*PWM EV 100hz did not work per the C7 calibration*

3. Fan State vs. Desired (all zeroes)

4. Output State vs. Control (all 1's)

5. Wired in AC pressure sensor @ X3-21, X3-57, & X3-37

Viola! PWM fan control works in the scanner!

Good information. Nicely done.

Andrew

Update

When I commanded the fan on in the VCM scanner, the fan would come on and ramp up as I increased the percentage. However, when I would lower the percentage the fan would stop, and not restart until I cycled the ignition off/on.

So I went back into the calibration and switched the hz setting to 100 on a chance.

Now the fan runs perfect. Moving up or down on the fan control works like it should in scanner.

Thanks again to everyone in this thread for all the informative posts!


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Everywhere I read indicates that the modern brushless fans use 100Hz.

Andrew

where's the best place to buy 2 x SPAL VA89-ABL320P/N-94A fans now. Seems to be very few places to purchase from.

Also noticing the same part number coming up on alibaba now, look identical without the silk screened SPAL logo. Anyone tried these?

Hello did you find a way to use GMPP E92 to run the cooling fans with PWM

Did you use EFI Live or HPTuners to change the OS?
Will it work without the AC pressure sensor or is that required?
Thx

I used Hptuners to do the OS swap. I do have the AC pressure sensor wired. I don't see why it wouldn't work without it.

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Where did you get the ZR1 OS file? Thanks