Rich I here ya!! If it helps you I would be happy to send you my hydraulic flaring set for the steel lines. Its a great tool... Let me know I'll ship it right out to ya!!

Thanks Mario really appreciate the offer. Ill let you know if i need it, I should be ok its a talent issue Im struggling with. I used brown and miller racing solution to build the hoses for my 67, they use a PTFE liner the quality is killer so I think Im going to give them a holler on monday. Im trying to come up with accurate dimensions and a way to template the lines .

Thanks again Rich

I'm FFFFAAAARRR from this point but I'm dreading it already.So every once and awhile I pick up the bender and do a little practice bending. And my results are always the same ''I SUCK'':D .... Remember its here if you need it just let me know....

If it helps you guys - here's something about bending HARD lines that you might want to use...

Take your various size lines -- mark a start line - and bend a 90 and do the same for a 45 etc. Use these as templates transferring your bend start line to
your work piece.

It also took me awhile to figure out that you can actually measure where your bend is going to be and to set it up in the bender at the correct notch. Not sure what benders you're using - but mine have 0* R 45* marks on the tool as well as the RADIUS dimension that needs to be used (each tool bends a different radius).

Here is a really handy dandy RIGID instruction sheet showing various steps in making bends and how to use these tools. This happens to show their series 500 bender - but they're all generally used in the same manor. Hope it helps.


Page 1

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...structions.jpg


Page 2

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...enderpage2.jpg


Page 3


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...enderpage3.jpg

So the tubing benders I use are the Rigid 400 Series... and they have these various markings on them for where you need to start your bend - and this depends on where you MEASURED from.... whether you measured from the left of the tube or the right - and if you FLIP the tubing 180* then you need to reverse where you set the mark. SO if you measured from the left and you need to flip the bend then you'd set your mark using the R (right) instead.

Personally -- some times I get so turned around that I have to just stop and regroup! :rofl:

This is a photo of what I use. Note the bend radius. This has to be subtracted from your measurement. So lets say you're going to need a tube 9" long that is straight line measurement - but it hits the frame and goes 90* at the 9" point --- then your mark would be make at 8 1/16" because if you then set that mark in the bender - your tube is going to come out at the 9" point -- but this is where you get into the "right" - "left" - or "center".

Maybe Mark will jump in here and try to help me out -- cause it gets real confusing and is even worse trying to write it up here in a post!


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/IMG_1026.jpg

Not true -- not true at all.... but I will tell you I struggled until I started to actually dig into all the nuances of bending this stuff because I'd really like to not waste so much time and tube!

Personally I HATE plumbing... too many tricks and too many fittings and I just can't seem to keep them all straight (a pun?).

When I did finally realize that some of it isn't just guessing -- it became A LITTLE -- and I mean a little - easier.

I can show you my scrap barrel is full of oops!

My signature shows that tool line... and 67 mentioned the PTFE lines. I have a special saw set up - for cutting braided lines. It doesn't mash the ends of the PTFE - it doesn't melt them - and it cuts the braided part absolutely square and without fraying. The other thing I found that really helps is the have the aluminum jaws for the vice... set up to clamp and hold the fitting ends. And the other tool for the PTFE is a hand operated tool to set the ferrel. Without this stuff -- you're just in for a fight... So it's the tools that make me "smart" not anything else. My problem is - I can't remember I have the tool! :rofl:

Greg thats going to help alot of us. Thanks!

Moving forward slowly, lifting the tunnel took a bit of wind out, but Im getting back on track. Sometimes you really just have to walk away for a little bit. I mocked up all the fuel lines and dry sump lines and got them back from Brown&Miller racing solutions. This is the second time Ive used these guys, although very expensive the lines are near the best in the industry. They now have every cup team as clients, the PTFE liner is really impervious to the fluids we use, and has an extremely high burst pressure all crimped with every fitting you can imagine available. No smell in the garage/shop every one that has ever owned an earls or russels hose knows what Im talking about. The front brake line was re bent and I got brake fluid in the system after bench bleeding the master. Heres a few pics of the lines B&M made for me
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture018.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture023.jpg

Had a bit of a clearance issue with the dry sump fittings being so close to the header tubes, so I got rid of the male theard to male AN12 adapter.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture013.jpg

This is the difference in space between the two fittings.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture026.jpg

Playing with the ride height a bit. Needs some more tweaking.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture003.jpg
Rich

Rich, looking killer man. Keep us posted on that build.:thumbsup: :cheers: