Knowing on a full floater that the center is one sealed off section, and each tube is also its own sealed off section.I welded a bung on the center section, and drilled and tapped each tube. Installed the little brass vent breathers in the tubes. The center section has a hose hooked to it which goes through the trunk floor, loops up into the C pillar, and back down through the same hole in the trunk floor.

Used to have a short vent tube with a breather, it puked oil constantly when the car was really pushed.Car originally had a semi floating Dana 60, it also puked out the breather when leaned on hard, and that vent came off of one of the tubes.

Ideally I think a breather tank with two ports,one high, and one low, and have the center with 2 bungs. One port to breath, the other to drain the oil back down into the housing.Along with the tube vents. That way one should always be open, allowing optimum windage. That is how my AMX is setup.

Still don't truly understand how the oil expands and pushes out those vents, I just know that it does. More or less had the same problem with the venting of the engine, now have multiple tanks breathing and sending the oil back into the dry sump tank. Man I've learned a lot the last couple years doing this crap, unfortunately learned it all the hard way. Don't know that these are the best fixes available, just know they worked for me.

I don't understand a lot about anything! I've already ordered the less expensive inner axle seals that you posted and now I'm looking at better breathers.
Thanks for the input.

It's all fun!
Dan

With all the working on the other car this poor car has been abandoned. Baer sent me a new brake set up before I went to Optima, I never had a chance to adjust anything before it left for Vegas. Car slid all over the track, front tires locked up at every turn. Adjusted the rear bias as much as possible, but still not a lot of rear brake.

While getting ready for Motorstate I decided to check the front to rear brake pressures. The first check, pushing as hard as I could, showed 2100psi front/ 400psi rear. Don't know what they are supposed to be, but I know that's not right.

Decided to ditch the tandem master cylinder with the rear bias adjuster, in favor of a dual master set up. Drilling the holes in the firewall was a real pain, but I did get it done. Made an aluminum cover for that mess, powder coated it, and will assemble it tomorrow.

The original set up definitely never worked considering I've cracked 3 front rotors, and the rears look pristine. This definitely a case of too many irons in the fire, this should have been checked/corrected years ago, just had too much going on. Building the car is easy, sorting it is the hard part.

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Other/...DSC01144-L.jpg

Sutton was doing my bias adjusting via infrared temp gun -- might be something to discuss with him. Like you - I have no idea what the pressures should be... but I'd think 2100 front should be seeing 800ish in the rears.

It certainly looked and sounded the part at Motorstate last year. Check out Chris getting ready for yet another LS in a Dodge??? question LOL

Ron, you should have Mr Sutton work up one of these charts for you:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps21e4b48c.jpg

Its funny Dave, I always was of the mind set that the rear had a fair amount less pressure then the front. If you think about it, if you run 3/4" masters front and rear, no matter what, the pressures should be the same front to back if the bias adjuster is in the middle. Clamping force may be different due to piston size, etc., but pressures should be the same.

If you look at Ron's chart, pressures are the same front to rear. I think getting it sized close then doing the temp check is really the best way.

No matter what it should be, my 2100F/400R is wrong. The rear bias adjuster is full open, my 7/8" master should have been in the ball park.
It was probably just bad from the start, and I just didn't know enough as a driver to feel it was wrong. Hell I got used to it, and took top 5 or 6 at quite a few events. Finch drove the car, spun it a couple times, and couldn't get close to my times, finally threw me the keys and said that thing is undrivable. I just laughed, probably should have thrown a big red flag, but the event was over, and it was beer drinking time.

Hoping this is a good change, and I don't turn it into a spin out machine. I'm pretty used to the car the way it is, and fear it'll be a handful. We'll find out on the 22nd, can't wait!!!

For what it's worth -- my Mustang had TOO MUCH rear brake -- and coming down the straight and getting into the brakes at speed started the rear hopping and skipping -- which then made it loose and nasty.

Ron (Sutton) started dialing out bias and it got SO MUCH BETTER... but we still had too much rear brake -- so now we've mixed up the compounds to see how that's going to work.

I hope it doesn't send me into the wall at 3.... LOL

That is what I mean Greg, you get used to wrong, so when you make it right, that seems wrong. I still have a bunch of crap to do on this car before Michigan, so it will be a thrash to get it done. I seriously can't wait to try it out.

Anxious to see what you do in that thing once it's drivable Ron. Keep at it.

I am still kickin myself for not forcing you to give me a country side ride in that thing when we were there. :twak: