Yeah that looks to be a far cry slower then these.

Video 1

Video 2

Video 3

You don't need a wind tunnel to figure out what to do.

A typical road course will not be a good place to test.
Your car better be set up right if you plan on going anywhere near that fast on a road course as the demands are completely different than for a high speed run. If you haven't been on a road course, the last thing you want there will be an overpowered car. 1,000 HP will not be useable on a road course. Also, you're cooling problems will be even more pronounced, you will need cooling ducts for your brakes there and more.

Best place to test and work things out is the Open Road Races. They won't let you run over 160 as a newbie anyway, so you're looking at multiple races for many reasons.

People don't realize the requirements for each of these are very different:

- A typical road course
- Open road racing (in the Unlimited Division)
- Bonneville/Maxton high speed runs over short distance

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

Putting weight in the front end just means the aero is not sorted out. Maybe within the rules of their class they cannot sort it out? I've raced against 205-210 MPH Vipers, but they ran different front ends that were designed to create downforce.

The term wickers I always thought was for strips added to the trailing edge of wings used for fine tuning, also known as 'Gurney Flaps'. On the Cuda, my guess is those pieces are doing more for eliminating underhood pressure (which creates lift) than creating downforce directly. From the picture, it doesn't look like they did much to manage the internal aerodynamics of the car - meaning managing the airflow that comes into the engine compartment and getting it back out. Can't tell from the one pic.

That may be why they needed the add-ons to the fenders.

If a car has lot's of lift on the front, a splitter is one of the few free lunches in creating downforce at the front end of a car and it is tuneable. It's also quite common to see designs that manage the airflow at the front end that use curved surfaces on the inlet side - which is basically a mini inverted wing surface - to accelerate the airflow and create downforce. That isn't easily tuneable, but could be calculated.

It's been a while since I looked at an SCTA rule book, but I do remember there were quite a few things they didn't allow, such as body mounted wings. They may be working within the constraints of the rules.

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

When I start road racing, I wil most likely lower the power to only 5 or 600 hp to allow me to get used to what I might encounter. I can always turn the power back up to what I need if I need more.

Talking with the guy in the Red Camaro, he made it sound like 200 was nothing and it drove rock solid with no instability whatsoever!!

He runs a 6 speed trans with a twin turbo LS1. He said the car would have gone more MPH but the gearing was way off, he went through the 1 mile mark at 7000 rpm in 5th gear and he makes peak power at 6100 rpm. I though that was funny because that is where I make peak power also!

His car may not seem like it wa going so fast because how quick the car is. A 9 second car accelerates pretty quick! Alot of cars might take 2 miles to get that speed.

It made me a little more optimistic seeing a another car make it look so easy, now at least I have some hope! :)

Here's a simplified formula I used to get rough numbers of HP requirements. Works best with real numbers for HP and Top speed and back into the CD and FA, then solve for HP requirements for any given speed. Meaning, if you top end the car, and have real dyno numbers, you can get a combined value for CD and FA for your exact car. Just takes some simple reworking of the formula.

HP = (CD * FA * V^3) / 150,000

If you have your top speed and HP then: CD * FA = (HP * 150,000) / V^3

With the numbers above to go 200 MPH w/ each requires:

391.68 = (.34 * 21.6 * 200^3) / 150,000
575.28 = (.423 * 25.5 * 200^3) / 150,000

This is a simplified formula and doesn't allow for rolling resistance and is probably more indicative of RWHP than at the crank.

If I were tackling the speed aspect, I'd start by trying to reduce the drag and frontal area. Dropping the car helps on the latter. Lots of ways to work on the former.

Contrary to what some of you are saying, I don't see any reason that car couldn't be made to run that fast reliably and with stability. That doesn't mean just anyone could do it - reliably and safely. It also doesn't mean it would be easy.

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

And he drove at that speed for how long, over what kind of road conditions, carried it through what kind of turns? Hitting it in a straight line and then just lifting is not a good proxy for stability. Unless the car is being built for a 1 mile run and that's it.

Not sure what you are trying to do - Maxton or Open Road Race.

Totally different animals.

John Buscema
XV Motorsports
www.xvmotorsports.com

I would like to road race, but not at 200 mph, just whatever the car and I am comfortable with. I also would like to hit 200 just to accomplish that. I am sure like he did, it will not be too hard. I am guessing from all the info that I have recieved, My car will be more comfortable at road racing at speeds of around 150 mph or so. Only time will tell I guess? :(

I am excited from all the ideas!

I guy up here that does them in his basement,for alittle extra cash,his a retired guy thats in no hurry.

But a Hughes or tranmission center have some bulletproof 4l80e.

The car looks fun to drive the way it is. Don't try and make some aerodynamic missle out of it. Have fun racing it the way it is. Final Answer.

hey down in new zealand our land speed record was set by a porsche at 348kperhr the reported cost of the car was close to a million kiwi dollars after it crashed at 350ks an hour not much the crash was on tv the dude died twice on the way to hospital he living now though .