Great match-up on the wheel choice. The spoke color works well w/the cars color. Fit looks really nice as well.
What was your final back spacing & width?

Thanks guys!

The wheel specs are 18x10.5 on all four corners. They all have a 6.6" backspace so I can rotate them. I think I will need a small spacer in the front but I won't know for sure until I get the car down on the ground with full weight on it.

I got my hubs and brackets from bigbrakeupgrade.com. Quality was great, I was just a bit disappointed when they came in raw steel and not the black painted or powdercoated finish they show on their website. My kit is for C6 Z51 rotors.

My next big task is getting my radiator installed. After a bunch of research, I ended up going with Cold Case for my radiator. They seemed to offer good quality and were about half the price of the bigger guys like BeCool and Dewitts. The quality so far looks good, and I ordered mine with their shroud and cooling fans.

To attach the shroud to the radiator, they supply some rivets or self-tapping screws for you to use. You have to drill your own holes in the shroud and the radiator (maybe the reason for the lower cost). Riveting the shroud to the radiator didn't seem like a great idea if I ever had to remove it. I also didn't really like the look of self tapping screws. So, I invested in a Riv-nut gun and decided to go that route and use some nice button head screws for a clean look:

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I also wasn't crazy about the polished look (there's honestly nothing polished under my hood right now) so I decided to paint the shroud black:

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One of the issues I'm running into now is fitting the radiator in the stock space. I'm running into 2 problems:

The first is the new AC condensor I bought doesn't quite match the original, which is causing the tubes to hit the side of the radiator. (I checked and the radiator is the same width as the stock one, which is what I originally thought the issue was.) I guess my options here are to use my old stock one, order one from my local autoparts store and hoping that one is right, or cutting and re-soldering the tubes on my new one.I'm leaning towards throwing the stock condensor back in for now to keep things moving.

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I'm going to stick with the stock one for now since my system was holding pressure OK when I took it out.

The next issue is the new radiator is thicker than the stock one, so of course my upper radiator support does not fit. Eventually I'd like to go with a nice custom upper radiator support, but for now to get the car running I am going to modify the stock one to fit. I made some little extension brackets that work to hold it in place until I can access to a shear and brake to make a custom upper radiator support:

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How hard would it be to just bend the line on new condenser?

x2 and get new hoses should the factory ones not fit with the bent tubes?

Good work with the riv nuts. Much cleaner looking than rivets or screws.

Thanks for the tips on gently bending the condenser tubes... everything seems to be fitting OK now. You can't be afraid to tweak some parts sometimes!

Radiator and condenser are in for good now, just need to get some washers for the M6 button head screws I used. I grabbed some foam from Home Depot to help seal the condenser against the core support so hopefully that holds up.
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I am now deep into my next big job which is getting the wiring figured out. My strategy so far has been to unwrap everything and loosely lay it in place. I've then been starting to connect things, and play with different layouts and how I want to route the harness. Sometimes that means shortening some wires and lengthening others. I've also been repairing any damaged wires along the way and replacing any of those crimp-on connectors with nice soldered jointed covered in heat shrink. It's taking me a long time but wiring is one thing you don't want to have to go back and do twice!

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Once I have everything where I like it, I've started to wrap everything using Tessa tape. I was put onto this stuff from a local builder and I love it! I have 2 types, one for high temp areas and one for the rest of the engine bay. It's very easy to work with, and leaves a nice professional look. I've been starting at the furthest end of the harness and working my way back towards the firewall which has been working out OK for me so far.

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Been plugging away at the car slowly but surely over the last couple of months.

Wiring is coming along nicely, but it is taking a lot of time getting everything just right. Working behind the engine to get everything cleaned up and organized has proved to be a bit of a pain but it will be worth it for a nice clean look. I've been replacing some broken connectors with new ones from Hawks as well and repairing all the bad connections I find. A couple of quick pics:

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I finally tracked down some OEM fuel lines to go with my retro-fitted serpentine setup (again sourced from Hawks). I painted everything to match and was able to make my old stock flexible lines (the ones that went with old non-serpentine accessories) work by slightly bending the hard lines on the frame rail to give a bit more slack. I am happy I took the time to find an OEM set of hard lines to snake behind the alternator. In my opinion it looks a little better than a long AN line hanging on top of the valve cover.

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Lastly, because the 4th-gen booster I installed sits a bit closer to the firewall, I was not able to mount my clutch reservoir behind it on the firewall. So, after racking my brain for a bit, I came up with this little bracket design that I think will work pretty well:

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Glad to see you're still plugging along. Keep it up.

Nice progress. You are in the slow tedious part but this is also the part the pays the most dividends when done properly the first time. Keep up the good work.