Eric --

He had to rewire the shop so he could see the dial indicator.
:rofl:

That's right! I forgot about that whole deal. Light is always a welcom thing when building anything.:rofl:

It sounds like there was still a static issue with the radio.

Yes I had to rewire the shop....and all because I didn't want static on my radio. Some times it seems better to leave things well enough alone. But on the other hand, I now have 8 fluorescent lights with 16 bulbs in the shop instead of 4 single bulbs. Now I can see the dial indicator again without a flash light :thumbsup: :lol: Tomorrow I plan on running a cable coax out to the shop so I will have static free radio again.

As for an update....unfortunately there isn't one. I'm still waiting for the RobbMC dowels to arrive in the mail. Rob said they usually take about 2 weeks and it will be 2 weeks tomorrow. Hopefully as I go back to work on Tuesday and would like to get the scattershield done next week.

With the Autokraft pan...I left the stock windage tray on there. I sent Andrewb70 a message about that as he's done the L92 swap and he told me to keep the stock one in there. The pan and pickup fit quite nicely with the stock tray still there.

Thanks again guys for your help with the advice on the RFI filter and the wiring issues. I really appreciate it.

I'm leaning towards using the Vintage Air Frontrunner kit http://www.vintageair.com/ls.asp For the price, it seems to be the most complete kit. It includes an ATI balancer which I don't believe most kits do and I like the way the air conditioning lines come out of the pump. Mast Motorsports has some L92 billet spacers that allow you to use any serpentine kit with the VVT. I emailed them and made sure they would allow me to use the VA kit. They're not too badly priced either at $200 and they allow you to keep the VVT. Here's a link to them: http://www.mastmotorsports.com/page....essories&id=28

Thanks Mike. I hope your parts show soon. I want to see it all together almost as bad as you do.:D
Glad to hear the lighting all worked out.

I posted in the other thread regarding the oil pan question. It was GM Muscle asking about that pan on a 6.0L swap.:cheers:

any issues with your autokraft pan and the block plate from the bellhousing? my mcleod hits it, and i havent found a thread on what the best solution is.

Tim

I just got off the phone with USPS to see where the stuff is...they weren't much help at all. She said first class priority international can take a week. When I told her it's been two weeks, she said that's perfectly normal and I should just keep waiting. Guess I'll just keep waiting :mad:

Hey Tim...no issues with mine that I noticed. Is your block plate hitting the oil pan when you put it on??? I didn't notice, but I don't think mine is hitting. I wonder if you could grind the rear edge of the oil pan to clear it.

First they say it can take a week and then right after that say it's normal for two weeks? Sounds like a good answer instead of just saying "I don't know, I'll look into it". Gotta love the support huh? :lol:

Well I hope they get there soon for you. How is the rest of the project doing?

And the funny thing is she kept saying "I'd be happy to help you" throughout the conversation. Oh well...hopefully in the next couple days.

Haven't done anything else on the car. With my 4 on 4 off schedule, I usually go a month when most of my days off are during the week and the wife is at work. I spend most of my time in the shop then. During the other month when I'm off during the weekends, I might get a bit of time in the shop, but not much. I hope to get the scattershield done next Monday/Tuesday and then measure the throw out bearing in the clutch to make sure I don't need any shims. Next will be to drop the motor/tranny in. Can't wait.

Mike -

Don't pound those pins in until you've got the bellhousing sorted out - and then watch how you tighten up the thing - it will change on you! And typically there will be one or two bolts that pull it off center -- once you identify those - tighten the others first and leave those for last...

If you sink the dowels all the way home - they're too hard to turn and they should also have a dab of anti seize applied - once you gal the aluminum - there's no way you're going to turn them again "nicely".

Today was a good day. I got the new RobbMC dowels on Monday and really wanted to take another shot at getting the scatter shield dialed in so thought I would try it today. If you wondering what the big deal is about the RobbMC dowels, there is a huge difference between them and the Lakewood ones. You'll see in the pics. I was able to get it dialed in....and on the first try I got it to 0.0035" :D :D :D :D As the minimum recommended is 0.005", I wasn't going to play around with it any more. Onto the pics.

The new RobbMC dowels. They are .021. You can vaguely see a flat spot on the top of them. That is so you can use a 9/16 open end wrench to turn them while in the block instead of a flat screw driver which does not work.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00425.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00486.jpg

Here's the two side by side. Huge difference

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00525.jpg

Here's the old one's sticking through the scatter shield. No wonder they got chewed up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00496.jpg

And the new ones

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00534.jpg

Now that I ground down the sides if the magnetic base for the dial indicator, it sat on the flywheel completely flat and there was no movement. A huge must for doing this.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00545.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00555.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00566.jpg

Now that the dial indicator was in place, it was time to get my readings. This time I decided to get only the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock readings. Last time I was writing them down on pieces of paper and trying to remember which was which or I had a bunch of pieces of paper going with a ton of diagrams. Here's a very easy way to keep track of your measurements. Get a dry erase marker and write it on the face. When you need to repeat, wipe off the marks and start over. Here's my readings.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00627.jpg

With these readings I was so happy. I tightened the screws in the dowels and set them in place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00582.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00576.jpg

Not sure if I'll get it done today or not, but I plan on doing a new thread showing how to dial in the scatter shield will a bunch of pics.