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I don't have anything fancy (even though it was in Popular Mechanics after I Epoxy'd the Floor) & the pictures are on my Home Computer. Just a 1 Car Garage that used to be a CarPort. I walled it in, tore the old Flat Roof off, built my own trusses with a 12' center section & installed a Roll-Up Door. I put in a Rotary Revolution7 Lift so I can wrench & store. Big Snap-On box, Snap-On roll-around Cart with 4 Drawers, Fridge Full of Beer :cheers: . I also have a 40' long Carport behind the House where I can store my Open Trailer & another car.
T.C. |
Panteracer shop
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My brother and I bought an old metal building a
few years back that was an x machine shop... t-bar ceiling etc.. we did a matrix epoxy floor, painted the walls, redid the front room with lounge area, kitchen etc My home away from home.. whenever anyone calls the house my wife says he is at his shop.. working on some more cabinets and machine shop area in the back It has a great Stereo, Ac and heat, two lifts Panteracer Norcal Bob |
Way too clean --- can't possibly be any real work being performed there!!!
LOL Nice shed Bob! |
I'm diggin your TA Bob! :thumbsup:
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Panteracer Shop
Shop really is not that clean.. I just put things
away in the drawers before someone comes over then I can never find anything.. working on cleaning and organizing. Matrix floor hides everything including a bolt or nut you drop.. kinda of a pain Rob.. yes the Firebird is my favorite.. its been going thru a revamp lately.. new speedtech front end, still has leafs but monos with spherical eyes, subframe connectors and old Herb Adams style braces out front Working on lightening things up now Panteracer Norcal Bob |
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Yeah, I went back and forth on that over and over again reading all of the experts on the internet saying it shouldn't be done while I was researching the lift install too. The more I looked and read, the more I realized that those saying you shouldn't span an expansion joint with the base of a two post lift were the same types that probably wouldn't ever even attempt to install a lift on their own because they were too afraid of everything.
I talked with the guys at Greg Smith Equipment about it...and a few construction guys I know and decided I'd be fine. I've got 4,000 psi concrete somewhere around 5" thick with embedded rebar tied off both directions every 24" with a gravel base under the pour. To me, cutting sections out and pouring deeper didn't make sense because you'd lose or disturb the rebar reinforcement which I felt was as important if not more than the thickness of the concrete or where the expansion joints were. I also read about the same people suggesting using epoxy to secure the anchors in the concrete which also didn't make sense to me. I used 3/4" anchors that went into holes I drilled 5-6" deep, some went through the bottom of the slab, others did not. After driving the anchors down into the holes and shimming the column bases plumb, I hand torqued each of the anchors down a little bit at a time. You could feel if and when they were biting and clamping the base of the column down onto the slab. I had one pull up and not bite, the anchor itself failed. I ended up driving it down into the gravel base and put a new anchor in it's place that bit and snugged up great. This is a long explanation but in the end, the slab is stout and established (over 10 years old) and the bases of the columns are clamped down tight to the rebar reinforced slab, expansion joints or not with 3/4" anchors. Basically the anchors make the bases of the columns and the slab become one. The majority of the weight load goes straight down from the posts onto the slab with a little bit of the anchors job to keep the columns from tilting forward or back. With my truck all the way up on the lift, if you grab the back bumper and lift up or down on it, you will see the lift arms and the carriages twist and tweak back and forth a bit as the truck moves, but the columns do not budge. The lift itself is going to self destruct long before the slab will break or the anchors pull out of the floor. |
I agree with you Lance.... The lift makes a square box... on a side to side basis.
People need to learn HOW to use a lift - and I think the real danger is front to back from an improperly positioned car. I have a Rotary 2 post asymmetric where a good portion of the car is offset to the rear. I was told by the lift people that the DASH should be parallel to the posts... and the front arms should be about 90* or perhaps ahead a bit. It's worked fine for me. Just poking you here a bit -- but maybe that pickup could be used for a couple of runs to the dump... Looks like you're storing a lot of "stuff". That's supposed to be used for car stuff -- at least on this forum... HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. |
I drilled a pilot hole and concrete thickness was barely 4" in the area that the posts needed to go and I wasn't sure what psi my concrete is. I am also using a base plate lift (probably a Direct Lift HR8000) due to 10.5' ceilings. I think that makes it a little more critical on the composition of your slab as well. we are using 1/2" rebar to tie the new footing into the slab. Sounds like you know a little bit more about the composition of your slab....which helps.
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lol... That picture was taken at a bad time for me car shop wise. The tale end of a long construction project plus leftovers from two estates and a downsizing of my Dad's house. Here's what the inside of the shop looks like today. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...123032_692.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8...123023_803.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...123058_923.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...123052_387.jpg Well, maybe not that nice as I'm in the throws of a partial body off frame project right now so there's a few parts and tools strewn about currently... |
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