Not a lot to post about besides lots of sanding, cleaning, measuring, and welding. Then more of all of those. Then even more of all of those. But progress is good! Plus some fun parts showed up! 390mm rotor and 6 piston caliper should do!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cb4abd5b23.jpg


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Glad to see progress being made, Brian. Keep it up!

More sanding, measuring and welding. Rear structure is now welded on. Mocked up the rear subframe just to make sure everything fits. So far so good but I would say only about 50% through the welding.

Before I started this, I thought I liked welding. I don’t think I do. Maybe if someone prepped everything for me I would like it more. Lol.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6637af6bb3.jpg


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Still plugging away on the chassis. The rails are almost completely welded up. Cleaned up the frame table and lifted the car up enough to get the chassis up under the car. Tacked on the control arm mounts and will do the other side hopefully in the next few days. Goal is to have the floor cut out and chassis ready to weld in before school starts for my son.

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Guess it’s almost time for the yearly update! I will say that I have had lots of time in the garage thanks to the shutdown and stay at home order. I sincerely hope everyone in this community is safe and healthy.

Late last summer progress slowed. It was too hot and then quickly too cold in the garage to be productive. But we are back to progressing forward.

UCA mounts are on
Floor is cut out and inner rockers were replaced with 3x3 tube
Body and chassis are tacked together square and level
Started refitting sheet metal - and I must say it fits like garbage.
Bumper mount is designed and laser cut plates are on order

Any suggestions on modifications / perfecting fit on these panels would be much appreciated. I am not afraid of the work / hours - just don’t want to put in a bunch of hours and then screw it up. I am tempted to drop stupid money on original fenders at this point. I feel like the fender is really high near the rear corner at the hood margin. I also seem to have a huge gap at the top of the quarter to doors and no gap at the bottom. Both sides are like this. Not sure if the issue is the door or the quarter. The margin from door to rocker is pretty level.

I will say I took way too much metal off the car to start rather than replacing one panel at a time. Maybe next time I do this I will know better!

On to some pictures. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a2d1bb6a01.jpg


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Fitting sheet metal panels ...
 

Brian ... let me guess, you bought AMD panels? I know cuz the problem areas you are describing are the same ones I came across while trying to fit the ill-fitting panels.

First .... the front fenders being too high back by the cowl/ windshield is due to the idiots that spot welded the outer fender skin to the inner brace [hopefully yours is not this bad]. You can drill out all the spot welds and lower the inner brace to fit higher in the outer skin. Word of caution, do not final weld anything til the fender is back on the car cuz you may need to "lower/slice" the upper fender/cowl bolting mount to get it low enough ... ask me how I know!!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1786/99xMBd.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1315/2VShBz.jpg


Second ... the ill-fitting quarter panels need some help cuz on my AMD quarter they bent the lower rocker panel *90 at the wrong angle. So I cut the angle that supposed to attach to the top of the rocker and fitted the panel and made a new attachment *90 to fit the rocker and keep the door gaps somewhat reasonable. You need to line up the rear with the tail pan lines and the sail panel will fit body lines/ rear window lip and you should be close to OEM fitting.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...921/QxTum6.jpg Looking in from the back where the outer wheelhouse is ... notice the 18 ga sheet metal strip ... fit and then weld!



I hope this helps out ... I ended up re-using my door jambs and butt welded the AMD quarter skin on to the OEM jamb and window lip.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/zVcfgN.jpg
I ended up not using the AMD fenders and had my 53-year-old fenders stripped and I patched them .... mo better now!!!

If you need any other suggestions let me know, I'm not an expert but been there before ... oh and the AMD roof needs help too,lol!

Thanks a bunch. The problem seems to be primarily on the passenger side. I can measure the height difference relative to the inner fender brace. It seems to be around 0.3” higher which is most of the issue. I was able to get the driver side pretty good. That seems like a lot of spot welds to undo. I am considering looking for an original fender. The fenders also seem to bulge a bit at the body line down the middle of the door. I assume removing the brace helps with that as well? Again this seems worse on the passenger side.

I haven’t retackled the quarters yet. I wish I had gone the patch panel path on the quarters vs the hack job I did removing the door jamb areas.

Driver side:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1e501dce43.jpg


Passenger Side:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d78f52e7b8.jpg


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Amazing work, it seems every set of fenders have their own problem areas.

That's not as bad as mine ... you can always shim the cowl/ wiper panel if needed. I can see where the fender curve doesn't follow the hood and I know for a fact that a BFH and some wood helps in the contour ... ask my trunk lid:poke:

I'm pretty sure it's just a crap passenger side fender (or they are both bad). These came from Classic Industries I believe. Made in Taiwan. The measurement from core support the fender surface is lower on the passenger side by about a quarter inch, and the top side cowl mount it was a quarter inch higher than the driver side. I was able to drill out most of the spot welds and clamped the fender skin down on the bracket and it improved the fit near the cowl a smidge, but not enough.

:EmoteClueless::buttkick: