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-   -   Dirt Missile rebuild begins (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=57146)

rixtrix1 01-16-2019 10:08 AM

Hoping to see more build progress pics soon.

gofastwclass 01-16-2019 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 688553)
The Secret Sauced V/C’s were a problem from the get go!! They were leaking from day one.....and I remember thinking — “I’ve NEVER EVER seen a LS motor with leaking V/C’s.... “

If I get them back I plan to take them way out in the desert and add some modifications to them with a 6.5 Creedmoor...... Then I’ll sign them and send one to you!


Now THAT's funny!
I'll make sure to never make you angry. :D

57hemicuda 01-18-2019 03:44 PM

What ever Tim says goes on the dry sump, LOL, Kurt and him did more experimenting then probably anybody in the country. I am running factory 2 stage LS7 pump with A.R.E. pan, doesn't make enough vacuum to properly scavenge, so ended up using multiple vent tanks to cure my oil puke issues. Works great but took a while to dial in.

Tony V 01-19-2019 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71RS/SS396 (Post 688454)
How you plumb the topend of the engine is really dependent on the scavenge ability of the pump and whether it can maintain vacuum on the crankcase when the engine is wound up. If you can't maintain vacuum when the engine is at max rpm you have to vent the crankcase pressure to somewhere or you're going to have blow-by issues.
I started out with a 3 stage Dailey that made vacuum at idle but with the 4.125 stroke crank I have it couldn't maintain vacuum when we revved it up. I added 2 more scavenge stages, I can now maintain 15" of vacuum at 8,000 rpm and picked up 20 hp. I initially ran it sealed but with street driving I started seeing moisture accumulation in the tank oil cap and the valve covers. I plumbed a -4 line from the drivers side valve cover to the top of the tank to turn the air over and cured the moisture issue.

What I have done with the 3 stage pumps is to run one -12 line from the valve cover to the top of the tank, you can run it to the tank breather but you'll just fill with oil quicker.

Tim, really appreciate you sharing....Greg can't wait to see some progress pics and now that you're down here in sunny AZ maybe i'll get a chance to the missile on track days. love this thread, learning what not to do and how to correct it, unfortunately it came at a cost for Greg, hang in there!

now to my question; I have a 3 stage Dailey and plumbed a -10 from valve covers into my breather line on my 3 ga tank and would usually see accumulation of oil in my breather can that would fill it 3/4 full after a full track day, is that normal?

71RS/SS396 01-21-2019 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony V (Post 688653)
Tim, really appreciate you sharing....Greg can't wait to see some progress pics and now that you're down here in sunny AZ maybe i'll get a chance to the missile on track days. love this thread, learning what not to do and how to correct it, unfortunately it came at a cost for Greg, hang in there!

now to my question; I have a 3 stage Dailey and plumbed a -10 from valve covers into my breather line on my 3 ga tank and would usually see accumulation of oil in my breather can that would fill it 3/4 full after a full track day, is that normal?


I would just run a -12 off of one valve cover directly to the top of the tank so you don't keep filling the breather tank. Are you sure you aren't over filling your tank?

71RS/SS396 01-21-2019 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57hemicuda (Post 688635)
What ever Tim says goes on the dry sump, LOL, Kurt and him did more experimenting then probably anybody in the country. I am running factory 2 stage LS7 pump with A.R.E. pan, doesn't make enough vacuum to properly scavenge, so ended up using multiple vent tanks to cure my oil puke issues. Works great but took a while to dial in.

I wouldn't claim to be the authority on dry sumps. I know what works on the combinations we tested. :cheers:

GregWeld 01-24-2019 07:08 AM

Dirt Missile rebuild begins
 
I forget who was asking —- but this is the mod we came up with for the lower control arm (LCA)..... Once we have the specs locked in for alignment — our thinking is we’ll weld this fully and eliminate the bolts that will allow for adjustment.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f965efcad.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

SSLance 01-24-2019 07:10 AM

So simple...yet so effective...

GregWeld 01-24-2019 07:12 AM

SpeedTech built partial wheel tubs up front to keep “track debris” from just blowing all over the stuff on the firewall etc..... for those that have never run Hoosiers — you have no idea how sticky they are — and subsequently - how much junk they pick up and hurl!!




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ea914396d8.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

CJD Automotive 01-24-2019 07:20 AM

If you keep taking the dirt track out of this thing, your going to have to rename it... again.


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