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-   -   This is MY 67 Camaro (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34830)

efs69 07-29-2014 09:48 AM

Nice progress. Wait til you start getting the suspension on that frame. I didn't want to put it under the car cause it looked great.

Sonar Chief 07-30-2014 03:49 PM

Update 7/30
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Spiffav8 (Post 563277)
Epic build!


Thanks .... getting there!

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubbed69 (Post 563281)
This is a great built to follow and learn from on how to do things right.Great work and Great detail:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks .... I'm also learning from this build. Your car is awesome!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by efs69 (Post 563297)
Nice progress. Wait til you start getting the suspension on that frame. I didn't want to put it under the car cause it looked great.

That's what I'm afraid of ... but I have to make Scott's sub look :trophy-1302: Thanks!

Got some metal hung today , figured while it was in the 60's and raining I should get something done! I won't be using that radiator support or the header ..... but everything hanging is GM and that helps alot!!!!

Here's some car porn :popcorn2:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/WjBjM0.jpg
Hasn't been together since .... last time:headspin:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...904/dZNavG.jpg
Another shot!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...674/UBSL9A.jpg
Man it's good not to see rust here anymore!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...538/aUc2zi.jpg
Nice and clean!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...633/yGuSg3.jpg
Still need to get inners hung .... clean!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/EBKBwb.jpg


I have to get some homework done now ... equal hours in the garage on homework!

Thanks for looking ....:popcorn2:

Spiffav8 07-30-2014 04:43 PM

:confused59:

Wow....that makes a huge difference. Heck of an update!

waynieZ 07-30-2014 05:26 PM

Very Nice work Chief. You've come a long way Baby!!

HBRod 07-30-2014 08:06 PM

Lookin Good!
 
Nice to see the sheet metal getting fitted. Looks like you were able to get everything to line up well. Looks like the car is going to turn out great. Like you said, do it right the first time and you don't have to redo it later.

Rod

jydracing 07-31-2014 07:34 PM

jydracing 63 split window
 
Boy Michael, I thought that frame looked great the day we delivered it, but since you have worked your magic on it, it really looks "GREAT"sitting in your car....I saw what sheet metal work you had done when we were there, but with the front sheet metal in place,,,your car looks fantastic!!!! Keep up the good work!!!

Sonar Chief 08-02-2014 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spiffav8 (Post 563477)
:confused59:

Wow....that makes a huge difference. Heck of an update!

Yea it does ... I sat there and looked at lines on my car for quite awhile, and it's only in primer.

Thanks!

Sonar Chief 08-02-2014 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 563485)
Very Nice work Chief. You've come a long way Baby!!

Thanks Wayne .... still a little bit further!

Quote:

Originally Posted by HBRod (Post 563515)
Nice to see the sheet metal getting fitted. Looks like you were able to get everything to line up well. Looks like the car is going to turn out great. Like you said, do it right the first time and you don't have to redo it later.

Rod

Yeah, with the GM sheetmetal I took off it all lined up pretty good. The doors are another thing with the new skins! Thanks again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jydracing (Post 563629)
Boy Michael, I thought that frame looked great the day we delivered it, but since you have worked your magic on it, it really looks "GREAT"sitting in your car....I saw what sheet metal work you had done when we were there, but with the front sheet metal in place,,,your car looks fantastic!!!! Keep up the good work!!!

Thanks ... that's quite a compliment. I did see the vette update .... that's a BIG screen tv in there.

sleepertime 08-02-2014 11:32 AM

:thumbsup:

I agree the car is looking great. There is nothing like the feeling of working on it with no rust or grease in sight...

:flag2:

Sonar Chief 08-03-2014 06:27 AM

Update 8/3
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepertime (Post 563781)
:thumbsup:

I agree the car is looking great. There is nothing like the feeling of working on it with no rust or grease in sight...

:flag2:

Thanks ... it is nice to see everything clean and ready for paint!

I took the fiber disc to the header panel and drilled out the spot welds and got it down to metal and ready for reassembly and epoxy .... figured I'd saved the rest of the parts why should the header panel be any different?

Thanks for looking ...

Sonar Chief 08-09-2014 08:46 AM

Update 8/9
 
Doing some bonding and saving my header panel! Took it done to metal and sandblasted the braces and used 3M bonding to put it all back together ..... came out nice, now to sand the edges and get it in epoxy!

And the little brown truck came by .... another project to get started on here real quick!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/j7trtB.jpg
Rusted brace ... GRRRRR!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...539/7Y0atG.jpg
Braces off and ready for stripping!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...745/iDYcJn.jpg
Bonded, sealed and very strong!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...743/QxHpyr.jpg
All back together and better than new!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/209ty8.jpg
Next project :confused59:

Thanks for looking .....

waynieZ 08-09-2014 11:38 AM

Nice job Chief, talk about taking it to the limit. Better than new. Those frame connecters will keep you busy for a while.

Steve68 08-10-2014 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief (Post 563243)
Nice .... let' see some pixs!!!

Finally starting to look like a car again .... now to get the swing metal on the front end and get going on that quarter.

Thanks for looking ...

I have nothing, I now live in VA, eastern shore, the car and pics are in my shop in FL, there pic on my conversion thread on LS1 tech, never made one here, not worthy,

Sonar Chief 09-16-2014 08:49 PM

Been some time
 
since I had an update. MY school work is taking most of my time lately, but I told myself I needed to get out there and get some stuff done before it gets too cold out.

So I cut out the floor for the sub frame connectors, got the drivers side done and most of the pass side. After I cut up the floor supports and found rust I said that's the last sheet metal that I haven't torn apart .... figured, rust had started everywhere else!!

I'll use some Eastwood frame rust inhibitor all through the support and weld her shut.

Question for those before me: the connector DSE gives you to weld the frame and connectors together ... what's peoples doing for a removable frame setup?? Any templates? Any recommendations for strength?

I can't cut 3/16" and make it look good, suggestions?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/SnEPoW.jpg
Drivers side nice and snug, should be easy weld here!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...908/ki7Sj7.jpg
Pass side cut out, yeah RUST !
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/sXl82F.jpg
What to do about that gap prior to welding????
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...910/FVxXP3.jpg
This is the DSE connector .... like to replace it with a bolt thru on the frame.


Need to tear the front swing metal off and get the frame outa the way and get some epoxy on the floor before I get to far and then weld the connectors in for good.

Thanks for looking .... keep on keepin on!

Roberts68 09-17-2014 07:38 AM

Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?

As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68.
I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings.
I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed.
:thumbsup:

Sonar Chief 09-17-2014 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberts68 (Post 570165)
Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?

As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68.
I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings.
I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed.
:thumbsup:

Yeah I'm probably holding it upside down .... the point is the bracket was made to weld the two together, not too keen on that!

Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up.

Roberts68 09-17-2014 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief (Post 570181)
Yeah I'm probably holding it upside down .... the point is the bracket was made to weld the two together, not too keen on that!

Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up.

Looking forward to see what you come up with. It may be interesting to hear from DSE on how others have addressed it as well.

I intend to make the subframe bolt into the subframe connector as well, but I am okay with adding a tab of material to one or the other. I guess that's what I thought these supplied pieces were drilled for.

Build-It-Break-it 09-17-2014 09:45 AM

Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.

They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other.

I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website.

Sonar Chief 09-17-2014 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-it (Post 570192)
Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.

They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other.

I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website.

I just visited their site and hear what you are stepping in ... I went to the metal distributor place and they looked at me oddly, seems rectangular tubing is something they don't carry. What??

I like the male/ female idea .... keep thinking folks!

waynieZ 09-17-2014 02:51 PM

My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0967.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0968.jpg

Sonar Chief 09-17-2014 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 570232)
My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0967.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0968.jpg

Wayne ... thanks for the pixs! So you drilled new holes where DSE said to puddle weld thru their holes?

You think that the difference in the gauges (14ga bracket) and the stock frame (butt welded) will be strong enough? Any input is good .... cuz I don't want to redo this part. Getting in and out from under my cart is hard enough ... should have made the cart much taller :headspin:

Thanks Wayne!

Roberts68 09-17-2014 05:42 PM

I would mimic that. There will be little to no flex in the box tubing of the frame connector right there once the end cap is welded on.
A guy could put a piece of tube in flush as an anti crush sleeve, if that's warranted.

SlowProgress 09-17-2014 06:38 PM

Subframe connector brackets
 
I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg

waynieZ 09-17-2014 08:06 PM

On mine if needed I'll put a plate behind the tab and have it welded to the sub frame and tab.

Evan Iroc-Z 09-18-2014 07:03 AM

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

waynieZ 09-18-2014 08:08 AM

On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

Sonar Chief 09-18-2014 11:36 AM

Thanks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 570344)
On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

I never heard of putting convertible rockers in a coupe .... makes sense thou. What about welding in that floor piece that are only on coupes? Think I saw it on one of Cris's bulds, that may be feasible ....

Thanks for the inputs ....

Sonar Chief 09-18-2014 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z (Post 570331)
I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

I would have to have an engineer answer that .... any takers?

Thanks for chiming in ...

Sonar Chief 09-18-2014 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowProgress (Post 570276)
I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg

Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.

Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

SlowProgress 09-18-2014 07:15 PM

Shear strengths bolts and such
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z (Post 570331)
I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching ......

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief (Post 570375)
Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.
Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

I originally had bolt in connectors that sandwiched under the body mounts and front spring perches. Even those were pretty stiff. I could jack up one side of the car and the other would lift (but not perfectly straight). I think DSE intended these to weld in both the front and back but welding the back and along the floor will really improve the stiffness over my old bolt in connectors, not to mention how they don't hang down so far. I have not jacked the car up on one corner yet because my tabs are only tacked in place.
Answering Evan’s question about bolt strength I really am not a fastener expert but if you look online one 5/16 grade 5 bolt can hold roughly 5,000lbs in single shear. The connectors are mounted in double shear so assume around 10,000 lbs per bolt more-or-less. I know that is rough but the order magnitude tells me those three bolts are good for up around 30,000 lbs load. I purposely drilled the holes tight so they won’t loosen. I didn't want to make it perfect just better than before and allow the subframe to be removable so I can upgrade in the future. That’s about all the thought I put into it.

BTW one of the structural engineers at work reads these posts so if my estimate is all wrong he will probably say something :-)

Sonar Chief 10-06-2014 05:42 PM

School is over
 
and I'm working on the Camaro ....YEAH! Yep this session of school is over and I have 10 days to work on the car w/o homework. Then another session starts on the 16th!

Figured I'd get out there and burn some metal ... fit up the end caps for the connectors and welded them in place, always helps when I use the spectacles! A little salad dressing and they are good to go.

I still have to pull the sub out tonight and get ready to epoxy the floor pans before I permanently weld in the connectors, and I have to weld on the tabs to connect to the sub ... but one thing at a time. Weather is good so epoxy comes first and welding later this week.

Here is some porn to look at .....
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/480uwA.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/B10AC2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...912/qLOAwD.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/46cjk2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/juO56u.jpg

Thanks for looking, more to come .....

SlowProgress 10-06-2014 06:56 PM

Good stuff. Man 10 whole days to work on the car. It should be finished by then !

Sonar Chief 10-06-2014 10:59 PM

Thanks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowProgress (Post 572901)
Good stuff. Man 10 whole days to work on the car. It should be finished by then !

Thanks .... I should get a lot done in 10 days, we'll see how things go, tomorrow is epoxy and then weld those connectors in place.

Sonar Chief 10-07-2014 06:50 PM

Update 10/7
 
What I would have given for a rotisserie today ... yes a reproduction organ would have been on the list! Anyway, got the header panel, inner supports and the floor in epoxy. PITA :wacko:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/SRg0wu.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...538/eeEcts.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...911/lbwdH8.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/OqNpk2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...633/nHiqex.jpg

Working on the sub connectors tomorrow, we'll see how that goes, have to put the sub in again and line everything back up. Its always somethin'.

Thanks for looking ....

Roberts68 10-07-2014 07:01 PM

Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.

Spiffav8 10-07-2014 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberts68 (Post 573071)
Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.

Truth!!

SlowProgress 10-07-2014 10:08 PM

Worth the effort !
 
Yes it looks good. I always think of primer as a sort of dull version of paint. It cleans everything up and makes the hard work really show !

waynieZ 10-07-2014 10:16 PM

Looking really good Chief. Glad to hear you have some time on the car. I'm looking forward to more updates. :thumbsup:

Sonar Chief 10-08-2014 05:20 PM

Thanks!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberts68 (Post 573071)
Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.

That was hard work ... wished I had a rotisserie thou, should have seen it, spraying with one hand and holding a drop light with the other hand. It worked thou.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spiffav8 (Post 573085)
Truth!!

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowProgress (Post 573092)
Yes it looks good. I always think of primer as a sort of dull version of paint. It cleans everything up and makes the hard work really show !

It does look good in primer ... lets you know if things look like *ss! Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ (Post 573098)
Looking really good Chief. Glad to hear you have some time on the car. I'm looking forward to more updates. :thumbsup:

Thanks Wayne, there's more coming, working on a little _____, borrowing an idea from Mr. Stielow!

How is your health? Hope all is well and you have some Camaro time!

waynieZ 10-08-2014 07:43 PM

Doing pretty good. Getting ready to try to put in some time on the car soon.


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