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Nice progress. Wait til you start getting the suspension on that frame. I didn't want to put it under the car cause it looked great.
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Update 7/30
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Got some metal hung today , figured while it was in the 60's and raining I should get something done! I won't be using that radiator support or the header ..... but everything hanging is GM and that helps alot!!!! Here's some car porn :popcorn2: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/WjBjM0.jpg Hasn't been together since .... last time:headspin: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...904/dZNavG.jpg Another shot! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...674/UBSL9A.jpg Man it's good not to see rust here anymore! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...538/aUc2zi.jpg Nice and clean! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...633/yGuSg3.jpg Still need to get inners hung .... clean! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/EBKBwb.jpg I have to get some homework done now ... equal hours in the garage on homework! Thanks for looking ....:popcorn2: |
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Wow....that makes a huge difference. Heck of an update! |
Very Nice work Chief. You've come a long way Baby!!
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Lookin Good!
Nice to see the sheet metal getting fitted. Looks like you were able to get everything to line up well. Looks like the car is going to turn out great. Like you said, do it right the first time and you don't have to redo it later.
Rod |
jydracing 63 split window
Boy Michael, I thought that frame looked great the day we delivered it, but since you have worked your magic on it, it really looks "GREAT"sitting in your car....I saw what sheet metal work you had done when we were there, but with the front sheet metal in place,,,your car looks fantastic!!!! Keep up the good work!!!
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I agree the car is looking great. There is nothing like the feeling of working on it with no rust or grease in sight... :flag2: |
Update 8/3
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I took the fiber disc to the header panel and drilled out the spot welds and got it down to metal and ready for reassembly and epoxy .... figured I'd saved the rest of the parts why should the header panel be any different? Thanks for looking ... |
Update 8/9
Doing some bonding and saving my header panel! Took it done to metal and sandblasted the braces and used 3M bonding to put it all back together ..... came out nice, now to sand the edges and get it in epoxy!
And the little brown truck came by .... another project to get started on here real quick! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/j7trtB.jpg Rusted brace ... GRRRRR! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...539/7Y0atG.jpg Braces off and ready for stripping! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...745/iDYcJn.jpg Bonded, sealed and very strong! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...743/QxHpyr.jpg All back together and better than new! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/209ty8.jpg Next project :confused59: Thanks for looking ..... |
Nice job Chief, talk about taking it to the limit. Better than new. Those frame connecters will keep you busy for a while.
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Been some time
since I had an update. MY school work is taking most of my time lately, but I told myself I needed to get out there and get some stuff done before it gets too cold out.
So I cut out the floor for the sub frame connectors, got the drivers side done and most of the pass side. After I cut up the floor supports and found rust I said that's the last sheet metal that I haven't torn apart .... figured, rust had started everywhere else!! I'll use some Eastwood frame rust inhibitor all through the support and weld her shut. Question for those before me: the connector DSE gives you to weld the frame and connectors together ... what's peoples doing for a removable frame setup?? Any templates? Any recommendations for strength? I can't cut 3/16" and make it look good, suggestions? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/SnEPoW.jpg Drivers side nice and snug, should be easy weld here! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...908/ki7Sj7.jpg Pass side cut out, yeah RUST ! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/sXl82F.jpg What to do about that gap prior to welding???? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...910/FVxXP3.jpg This is the DSE connector .... like to replace it with a bolt thru on the frame. Need to tear the front swing metal off and get the frame outa the way and get some epoxy on the floor before I get to far and then weld the connectors in for good. Thanks for looking .... keep on keepin on! |
Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?
As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68. I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings. I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed. :thumbsup: |
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Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up. |
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I intend to make the subframe bolt into the subframe connector as well, but I am okay with adding a tab of material to one or the other. I guess that's what I thought these supplied pieces were drilled for. |
Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.
They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other. I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website. |
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I like the male/ female idea .... keep thinking folks! |
My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0967.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/000_0968.jpg |
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You think that the difference in the gauges (14ga bracket) and the stock frame (butt welded) will be strong enough? Any input is good .... cuz I don't want to redo this part. Getting in and out from under my cart is hard enough ... should have made the cart much taller :headspin: Thanks Wayne! |
I would mimic that. There will be little to no flex in the box tubing of the frame connector right there once the end cap is welded on.
A guy could put a piece of tube in flush as an anti crush sleeve, if that's warranted. |
Subframe connector brackets
I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.
Scott http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg |
On mine if needed I'll put a plate behind the tab and have it welded to the sub frame and tab.
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I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.
Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC. Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask. |
On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.
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Thanks for the inputs .... |
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Thanks for chiming in ... |
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Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors? |
Shear strengths bolts and such
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Answering Evan’s question about bolt strength I really am not a fastener expert but if you look online one 5/16 grade 5 bolt can hold roughly 5,000lbs in single shear. The connectors are mounted in double shear so assume around 10,000 lbs per bolt more-or-less. I know that is rough but the order magnitude tells me those three bolts are good for up around 30,000 lbs load. I purposely drilled the holes tight so they won’t loosen. I didn't want to make it perfect just better than before and allow the subframe to be removable so I can upgrade in the future. That’s about all the thought I put into it. BTW one of the structural engineers at work reads these posts so if my estimate is all wrong he will probably say something :-) |
School is over
and I'm working on the Camaro ....YEAH! Yep this session of school is over and I have 10 days to work on the car w/o homework. Then another session starts on the 16th!
Figured I'd get out there and burn some metal ... fit up the end caps for the connectors and welded them in place, always helps when I use the spectacles! A little salad dressing and they are good to go. I still have to pull the sub out tonight and get ready to epoxy the floor pans before I permanently weld in the connectors, and I have to weld on the tabs to connect to the sub ... but one thing at a time. Weather is good so epoxy comes first and welding later this week. Here is some porn to look at ..... http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/480uwA.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/B10AC2.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...912/qLOAwD.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/46cjk2.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/juO56u.jpg Thanks for looking, more to come ..... |
Good stuff. Man 10 whole days to work on the car. It should be finished by then !
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Update 10/7
What I would have given for a rotisserie today ... yes a reproduction organ would have been on the list! Anyway, got the header panel, inner supports and the floor in epoxy. PITA :wacko:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/SRg0wu.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...538/eeEcts.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...911/lbwdH8.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/OqNpk2.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...633/nHiqex.jpg Working on the sub connectors tomorrow, we'll see how that goes, have to put the sub in again and line everything back up. Its always somethin'. Thanks for looking .... |
Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.
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Worth the effort !
Yes it looks good. I always think of primer as a sort of dull version of paint. It cleans everything up and makes the hard work really show !
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Looking really good Chief. Glad to hear you have some time on the car. I'm looking forward to more updates. :thumbsup:
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Thanks!
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How is your health? Hope all is well and you have some Camaro time! |
Doing pretty good. Getting ready to try to put in some time on the car soon.
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