Finally time for a tin work. Starting to come together and look like a car again.

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psksvbeqen.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psnqhsuinj.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psglhfhj4b.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2oje6asl.jpg

Very nice on the adjustable watts!
Hate to hear about the pistons, though. Pin height too high, or too low?

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...pszopnq9tx.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1i73kkal.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psj9p5uu42.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psoqa3kd9z.jpg

Boxing out the top link

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psnnenh68g.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psbxwtikuv.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psldecj140.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psmudfnr8c.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psyffjjvsg.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psews2il4n.jpg

...and finally, the mini'est of mini tubs

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psmoqamthk.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...pstbzkahei.jpg

Pin height was too high by .125 so the piston was too low in the block and we did not want to change rods.

It's seriously starting to look like a race car.

Thrift shop camero
 

You could always line bore the crank up
That's what happened to my Pontiac
then all you need to do is:
Find the shortest timing chain ever
cut the dizzy so it will go all the way down in the block
cut the starter so it will align with the flywheel

Just being a smartass... I hate when things are
off by just a little

Cool build.. can't wait to see it finished

Bob

I was thinking USCA car.

Nice to see some more progress, Payton. Thanks for sharing.

Big deal.... those are the same seats in my Miata....




LOL

Wow! Your car is looking killer! If I wasn't so stuck on keeping the rear seats I would of done the same set up.

Thanks for the update! This project is too cool! I dig the Watt's linkage adjuster. I thought the one I made for my sprint car was trick...it uses a track bar mount from a NASCAR left truck arm to adjust in 1/4" increments.

It's sort of funny seeing the rusty tin that's left up against brand new tube.

Nice work!

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Car is turning out way nicer than I had planned. Would have blasted the body before starting the project had I known what it would have turned into. Now I get to prep it by hand.

GW- Need to look closer at that Miata as my seats barely fit into my car from the shoulder restraints. I assume you do not have those on your seats.

The easiest thing to do on the pistons would be get another set of rods .125 longer, but it is not everyday you can find a set of Pankls for $600, so they are remaking the pistons.

Race car? Carpet and cup holders and I am good to go. LOL

Very nice fab work going on here Payton!

I'll assume the chassis will feel somewhat similar to Shorty's pony, thus being a LOT of fun to drive. :thumbsup:

Yes, they are exactly the same......only different. :sieg:

http://stores.ebay.com/Tripp-Motorsp...&_sid=40040161

I buy from these guys, and they are straight up.
I see a lot of Pankl rods going for cheap. You buy yours new?

Dude, where is the A/C compressor, and why is there steering linkage attached to rear-end of the vehicle? Is this a rear steer setup--so Kramer can drive it like the fire truck?

You are all kinds of awesomeness.

Best streetcar yet.

D

yeah, those guys are masters of tin work........so how did they get the tin around the tubing? Most of it looks seamless and super tight fitting.

You're joking... right? :sieg:

No, good geometry is good geometry.
'Somewhat' is relatively vague.......like your completion date.

Pankls had 3 dyno pulls on them...came from Roush

Vince- He does the tin work first, then cuts a hole and slides the bars through and welds them in. Fab skill at its best!

D- it will have 255 a/c. 2 windows down at 55 mph. If I am brave enough 2155 a/c

\

I never knew such a rear setup existed----that is way cool. Happy it's finally coming together bro.

D

#ouch

I have 2165 AC in my car, but I have a hard time keeping the triangle vent windows open at the hi settings.
I'll be in Charlotte next month, I wanna come check it out if I have time.

LOL at that one! I'm having a hard time fitting mine into that class, I have to "find" 260lbs to put in the car from somewhere. turns out the 3200lb min is without the driver, unlike any other classes I've run in. Maybe Leaded Fuel will help?

No ouch. It's just Sieg. He actually loves driving Miatas. And Loti.

#AlwaysConsiderTheSource

:action-smiley-027:

The preponderance of :action-smiley-027: in yer posts...so that's why you go by 'Flash'.

:snapout:


lol

He's the smartest one in the entire bunch... he has much more track time / seat time than about 99% of those on here... and he never buys a tire... or takes a car to the track and back. LOL BRILLIANT!!

Yeahbutt do you send him home with some of yer team's shirts?

just don't give him something sharp or put him alone in a room with Alvin's chipmunks.

oh, just checking, cause if they did it after the bars were welded in I was going to run my tig welder over with a Zamboni. :captain1:

Sorry to interrupt all the banter with an actual car comment :lostmarbles: :

Looking really good, man.

It looks like I dodged a bullet to get hit by a grenade. :drowninga:

A question for you... do you know if those upper A-arms are actually built on Corvette geometry? I am trying to clear the shocks installed on my car that rub on the OEM C6/C7 upper control arms... same with a few other grenadier folks.


I think a tube arm will clear the shocks, since the cast arms seem to be much thicker.

You should be sorry.

You just made the list buddy. :shakehead:




lol

Ya'think? :peepwall:

JJ,

The early Wayne Due C5 frame had the same issue. You can correct it with a longer shock or redo the upper shock mount. From my experience it will actually clear at ride height and under compression.

Understood, I don't want to grub up this thread, but rubbing is bad, at any stage. If anything, it removed the coating on the springs, and they rusted. Can't keep the springs loaded all the time.

:tv_happy:


In more ways than one...

Sorry, I was out of town and off line.

The upper control arms are made to C5/C6 specs and are a direct replacement. My upper and lowers are 1 inch longer than stock on each side.