I thought about a clamp but it's too easy to fab a bracket and plug weld it on the tube.

Knuckle Dragger! :warning:


I'm also toying with the idea of eliminating the lines on the rear axle altogether and running hard line out to the inner frame rails and dropping flex lines down to the calipers.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K...-KKd9fv4-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-z...-zfMfkQn-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-d...-dmKvxtm-M.jpg

The tube mounted brackets would be too easy though..........:headscratch:

Sieg, I ran my rear line back to my crossmember, T'd it on the crossmember, and ran individual hard lines out to each side of my frame, before going to braided flex lines to each caliper. I have too much going on bracket wise, on my axle tubes to worry about running lines, plus to me, it looks much cleaner keeping the lines off the axle. It's also easier to pull the rear end out of your car, with no brake lines strapped to it. Just my 2 pesos...

If it was mine -- I'd just run hard lines from the T all the way on the axle tube to the caliper --- with a SINGLE braided line from the body to the T on the axle....


If I was YOU ---- I'd haul it down to Mark at Bent... :D :popcorn2: :whenitsdone: :poke: :G-Dub:

I'd hate to obligate Mark to put lipstick on a pig. :sieg:

One option is to tweak the existing lines on the tubes towards the offset calipers and tack the brackets on and call it good. Wilwood recommends a 14" line kit for it but that length appears to be excessively generous, 8"-10" is what I'm guessing. The keys are to stay away from exhaust pipes, tires, and bump stops or other pinch points with the floating lines.

I like the idea of running hard lines all the way, with the fixed calipers it's not an issue, and it's 2 less connections. I may have enough line left in stock but with my luck I'll be 3" short and have to buy another 25' roll. :D

Do you know a source for the coiled line sheathing? The OEM will probably be a couple inches short of ideal.

Regarding using a braided drop line, I'm wondering if the expansion in OEM rubber line might actually be desirable with respect to feel/modulation in my manual system. (I think Tobin and I discussed it at one point) My initial thought was to leave the OEM line and see how it felt and performed when I test and set the bias adjustment. Then replace it if needed.

Thanks for the input Scott. Worthy points of consideration. :thumbsup:

It would have been a great sales tool for anyone selling brake upgrades!

As is no video except to this day I can still close my eyes and replay the event in HD. :D

Depends on how old that stock rubber line is --- and remember that the disc brakes need more pressure to operate properly.

I'd just run that axle line in 3/16" brake line that you can buy right down at the auto parts store... they sell it in various lengths. It's not SS - but WTF -- you're not building a Ridler car like Mario. It's easier to bend --- and should come with 45* and ends that might go straight into the T and the other end into the caliper. That or whack the caliper end and put a 37* single on it to a -3.... don't forget to put the tube nut on etc BEFORE you flair... Been there and done that DOH!!

Thats what your master if for and not your hose. If you are feeling it due to the hose Im gonna put a pea between your matress and keep you from sleeping at night. You can run hard all the way to the caliper. But put in a slack bend in it.

The rubber line has been replaced.

I still have enough nickel/copper line left from doing the front system.......Awesome material to work with and it has a nice patina to it. Even had straight ends for the calipers and 37* flares in stock!

Just need to find new protective sheathing.

Will running hard lines all the way to the calipers prevent them from being removed for maintenance (pads/rotors change)? Or there's enough flex in the lines to move the calipers away?