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Impressive work. Thanks for the updates
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Here is the process for the flanges between the dash, the A-Pillar and the kickpanel. Wood brackets hot-glued to each piece and the connected together with some scrap sheet metal. Did this for most of the interior panels.
Did this in the car so the brackets are in the exact position. Attachment 83691 Then pulled it out of the car and put it back together on saw-horses. Attachment 83692 Then laminated the flanges, these will connect the parts together with bolts and rivnuts. Interior guy may modify this but that's above my paygrade. Attachment 83693 |
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Printed some plastic molds to help make hand reliefs in the A-Pillar covers. I tried to keep the hand grabs tight to the A-Pillar so they didn't stick out funny and always knew I would have to modify the cover to provide space for knuckles.
Attachment 83694 Attachment 83695 |
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Printed a bezel for the GPS/Track Computer.
Attachment 83696 Attachment 83697 Some more test-fitting Attachment 83698 Attachment 83699 Fab'd the thresholds. Attachment 83700 |
Very nice work!!
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Very impressive.
A bunch of effort for sure & it looks like you nailed your vision. |
That dash looks like a fighter jet cockpit! 🤘
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Thank you guys!!!
Will mount the fuse panel above the trans tunnel for easy access but need to mount it vertically to not interfere with the AC ducts. Printed this plastic bracket. ABS plastic and it's only 20% solid so it's light but I couldn't break it by hand. Made the areas with bolts 100% solid for added strength (not shown is I used threaded inserts that I melted into the holes and also used nylocks to ensure the fuse panel never came loose. Yep, sorta enamored with this 3D printer, certainly opens up options. I will make an access panel in the side plate for the center console, coming soon. Attachment 83855 Attachment 83856 |
I don't know how I did things before I got my 3D printer. I takes build quality to a whole new level.
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I want one!
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I'm doing the dash inserts and the waterfall/center-console center section with carbon overlay. I agree, CF is sorta overdone these days but I think it works for my interior and will give a bit of contrast to the mostly black interior. I will use Matte clear for the final coat so it should look good.
Did a bunch of test pieces with some of the test prints of the switch panels to figure out how to cut the holes for the switches very accurately. Have no choice but to cut out the carbon by hand so really need to keep the plastic edge clean and unbothered by the epoxy resin, so it can but used as a guide for filing the edge straight. Seems crazy but the process was to back it with masking tape (yellow), brush multiple coats of mold release (green) over the tape and let it get on the super thin edge of the plastic opening. Then fill the void with hot glue so the carbon had something to rest on so it would stay flat and not sag into the hole. Attachment 84032 Then a fairly thick coat of epoxy, tinted black. The CF weave isn't tight so it needs the black backing. Let it tack up to only a finger print. Then massage down the CF, keeping the edges tight (that's the only real trick). Attachment 84033 Then lay down a couple of layers of clear epoxy to seal it down. Attachment 84034 Now sanding the epoxy flat in preparation for the matte clear. I'll be here awhile, needs to go to 800grit. Attachment 84035 |
Very impressive John. :thumbsup:
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I don't know how you'd do it in your software, but in fusion you can build a box around the part and combine using your part as the cutting tool to get a new body. https://youtu.be/ICh4lK_CfdE?si=2xrMMQOxb4EYLia4 I have the X1C also, I'm ordering the H2D in a few months I think. I want the first few batches to get the bugs worked out first. |
[QUOTE=CamaroAJ;734122]You could have printed a insert to fill the button holes from the back and made the clearance tight enough that you could have used clay or way to fill the gap so your edges stayed crisp.
I don't know how you'd do it in your software, but in fusion you can build a box around the part and combine using your part as the cutting tool to get a new body. I have the X1C also, I'm ordering the H2D in a few months I think. I want the first few batches to get the bugs worked out first.[/QUOTE] You are so right!! Didn't even think of that!! Rookie over here!!!! |
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Fuse box access panel done. Realizing this is sorta boring!
Attachment 84153 |
Yeah, but it's progress and progress is cool! :thumbsup:
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Sand, sand sand. 120 to 400. More interesting pics coming.
Attachment 84387 Fire Bottle and Battery mounted. Attachment 84388 |
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Hope everyone is doing well! Been an interesting few months around here, we decided to move and build a new house so I've lost my shop for now. Living in our rental...3 car garage. So I'm working on jack stands for now. Yeah, that's some first world problem BS complaining...right!! Certainly not lost on me, but still it's a pain at my age! More to come, I've got some catching up to do.
Attachment 85373 |
Hey, I sympathize with you John, I'm in the same boat. However I did finally pull the trigger on a lift and am getting it next week. Working off the ground sucks when you're used to having a large shop and lift.
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Oh man,
Projects are hard enough without moving parts…twice. Good luck with the new house and hope all your parts and pieces make their way with you! |
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Way back when I did the new rockers and the inner fenders, I had one of those brain switched off moments. I did this weird intersection having the to-be-painted-bodycolor rocker facing the tire. Dumb.
Attachment 85387 So I corrected. Cut out the rocker cap and recessed it back. Attachment 85383 Cleaned up the metal work. Attachment 85384 Ready to fill in the fiberglass inner fender Attachment 85385 Done. Ready for primer. Attachment 85386 |
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Extremely fortunate that I have some great friends...close friend has a local hot rod shop and he has very graciously offered to let me work on my car at his shop for a while, Kenny's Rod Shop. Beyond awesome. Access to every tool you could imagine and the best part is he and his guys are super talented and always looking after me with hands, help and killer advice. Kid in a candy store.
Had it transported a couple weeks ago. Only the second time she has been on the ground with shoes on. Attachment 85410 Attachment 85411 |
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First task was to template the rocker skirts. Always had this concept in mind but again having experts standing next to me with "move it 1/4" or "instead of a 1" radius try 1 1/8". Some next level advice!!
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That's awesome!
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Good luck with the move, John. Hope it's not too far away.
Car looks great sitting on its wheels. |
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Starting the plugs for the bumperettes and front spoiler.
Attachment 85414 Attachment 85415 Attachment 85416 Attachment 85417 Attachment 85418 Attachment 85419 |
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For making plugs with anything soft like balsa, drywall mud is your friend. Sands like balsa so you don't over-sand.
Might have been able to do this whole thing on the printer but likely just as quick and accurate doing it by hand, some printed parts and some hand formed. Fairly square and symmetrical but as you can image the center line of the nose isn't perfectly centered so playing the compromise game to get it better. Attachment 85425 First pass at primer and blocking to confirm shape works. Will crisp up the lines and flatness, then a mold. Attachment 85426 Beginning shaping the sides. Guys in the shop are a ton of help, with helpful eyes! Super thankful. Lots more before a mold. I'm pretty sure this is ride height, at least for the street. 4 1/8" in the front, what do you think. Attachment 85427 |
4 1/2" is low, but should be streetable. Great work John.
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My rule of thumb is 5” for no road contact. You will have to be careful with driveway approaches etc in my experience.
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Very cool, John!
That's awesome to have a friend who will let you use their shop to work on your car. |
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Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback! I raised it up to 4 7/8" of ground clearance.
Laid down a handful of layers of drywall mud to get the shape. Attachment 85481 More mudding and I built an inner structure inside the spoiler so it perfectly holds it shape when removed from the car. If it moves at all, the mold will be junk. Attachment 85482 Took a step back and fixed a bad angle where the fenders meet the spoiler, well worth the effort... much smoother line now. Attachment 85483 Final sweep with body filler and drywall mud. I like drywall mud for making plugs in some cases; it's cheap, sands super easy, allows easy shaping of complex curves and for sure it's the only way to go when using balsa as they sand very similarly. Attachment 85485 A handful of heavy layers of filler primer rolled on, final blocking is next. And then onto making the mold. Attachment 85484 |
You're the man!! :king:
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I am looking forward to seeing more progress pictures
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Thank you gents!
Final test fit of the spoiler and bumperette plugs before mold makin'.... Attachment 85581 Attachment 85582 Attachment 85583 First sections with gelcoat and the first layer of glass. Long way to go, best to do only a layer or two, maybe three at one time so curing is more stable. Just time, right??!! Attachment 85584 Attachment 85585 Attachment 85586 |
Bad ass
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