Lt 5
 

Had to laugh at the reference on Abs
Told my buddies how you were programming the
Abs software for the stopbox. Brilliant
By the way my 72 Pantera placed 11th at the Sema
Optima. Not bad for an old Ford car
By the way we really care for a cool Guy we know
Lilliard knows nothing
Gregs not around to put him in his place

Bob





Cool

Nice and Congrats you are now an official celebrity!

Congrats to you Mark. Been following you since the Red Witch article in Hot Rod back in '96. You've now reached my car guy pinnacle: engineer, for GM, in charge of motorsports, with a side of pro-touring mastery.

Nobody cares !!!!!!!!!

See - Nobody cares.


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this undercarriage is so mean

Hey Mark,

The craftsmanship and attention to detail is really beyond compare on your builds - truly at a different level. Congrats!

Brian


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I do admire your consistency :)

Quote of the day.......

Mark,
The car looks absolutely amazing from top to bottom, thanks for taking the time to share each of your builds in such detail!
Just curious, was your glass supplier the GM licensed manufacturer or another brand?

Enjoy your new Hot Rod!

This car is an incredible piece of work. I personally think that the underside is more impressive than the top to look at. Haha. Not saying in any way that the car itself is not beautiful though. Knocked it far out of the park yet again Mark !!!

Mark, are those fill ports a factory or aftermarket PN? Trying to figure out how to fill/bleed my LT4 intercooler system, and I looked at Gunner and didn't see any fill ports - how did you do Gunner? I don't want to put a reservoir in the system if I don't have to ...

Thanks,

Scott

The fill ports were from a LT4 lines set. I have not used reservoirs in my last 3 builds. I have usually added Jiffy Tite dry breaks to the top of the intercooler to bleed the system.

This time I made a reservoir at the very top of the system to bleed it. When we evacuated and filled the system it worked great. It is critical on this supercharged systems to get all the air out. After we filled the system we removed the extra reservoir and reinstalled the factory caps.

The easiest way to know if the system has no air is fire up the intercooler pump(s) with the engine off and listen for air going through the pump. If it is dead quite no air. You will hear the air pockets gong through the pump.

Another note. Keep the system as restriction free as possible. Don't use a lot of 90 degree fitting and extra lie length. Short runs and minimal bends..

Good luck

Mark

Thanks Mark! I wouldn't have thought a system would work without some room for thermal expansion, but obviously you've proven that wrong.

I did find this kit to add a dry break and high point for bleeding LT4 systems. Kinda spendy but probably worth it when you read about how tricky these systems are to bleed and get all the air out.

That kit looks like an Jiffy Tite fitting and reservoir.

Jiffy-tite 31406 Male Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759GZHX3...XC7WRDKNSKB7RE

Good idea. Similar to what I did on my LT4 but with a hose and reservoir I hung from my hood latch.

Mark


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GM has done the reservoirless intercoolers on several cars now, my ATS-V being one of them. I think the LT4s are the same way. Haven't worked on an LT5.

My hunch is the lengths of rubber hoses and the hoses being flexible is enough allowance for thermal expansion. It's not a huge volume and not a large delta T, at least compared to the engine coolant.

And yes, bleeding the reservoirless systems is a bit of a pain.

The "riser funnel" method like the kit you posted works pretty well, in my experience you can get about 90% of the air out by filling the funnel and toggling the pump on an off many times to "burp" the system-- you'll get enough air out, at least enough so it won't trip the ECM's pump cavitation monitoring on a factory car. The cavitation monitoring on the factory cars will shut the intercooler pump down if it detects cavitation from air in the system (I'm guessing it monitors the pump current for excessive ripple which would indicate air in the system, or low current which would indicate no coolant and no load on the pump.)

However, if I first bleed the system by the "riser funnel" and pump cycling method, then hook up the factory filling/bleeding method of a Kent Moore quick connect fitting and a Vac-N-Fill, it will pull a little more air out of the system that the "riser funnel" method left in. The factory intakes have the fill points located a bit lower than the tops of the intercooler bricks in the intake, so air will always want to collect in the bricks at the highest point. Only way to get 100% of the air out of the system is to use a Vac-N-Fill or similar and run it through a couple of vacuum and draw cycles until it only pulls a steady stream of coolant out.

Thanks for the info. There are a lot of threads on these subjects in the C7 Z06 sub-forum on Corvette Forum. It appears from the testing done in this thread that the cavitation protection is actually built into the pump itself. I'm using a replacement pump from Lingenfelter which will hopefully not be as fussy, but getting all the air out is important regardless.

BTW the C7 Z06 does use a small reservoir, which might actually be making the aeration/cavitation problem worse.

The two -6an fittings going into The dse rack do you Use the supplies Teflon crush washers or do you replace them with something else? Copper or
Aluminum? Do you add a dab of locktite to stop the fittings from backing out of the rack? My crush washers need replaced is why I ask.

Yep the nylon crush washers suck. Use a Earls Stat-o-seal. I forget the size. But you need two different sizes.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e746a128c6.jpg


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Sounds as good as it looks, not too loud at an idle and a healthy lope. That's not a stock GM cam is it?

Too bad its winter time , I bet you'd love to take it to work and show it off , maybe take it on the high speed track at millford lol

Love it, sounds great! Can't wait to hear it at full tilt and get your take on the new mufflers.

Wish I would have read this before installing my new washers. No chance I’m pulling it back apart lol

Not a stock cam. I had Katech build the engine. Long story but it make over 900 hp.


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Engineering at it's BEST :thumbsup: Stielow & Co. knocks another one out of the park.
Mark thanks for sharing all your builds, I really enjoy reading through them and I always find something new and interesting in the builds even though those new and interesting things tend to make me spend more than anticipated:G-Dub:. lol


BB

Have you noticed much difference between mid and long tube headers performance wise? Looks like you are running mid lengths and 3” exhaust correct?

On a supercharged engine no difference at my power level. Under 950 HP


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Mark, do you use a remote solenoid in the trunk? Also what route did you use to run your positive cable to the front?

Do you know what the airflow/cfm rating on that CTS-V fan might be?

Looking at laying down a rad in the nose so a lot of pull would be beneficial. Maybe even make a little downforce...

GM rates their fans in watts, and the fan that Mark is using is 850watts. It wouldn't surprise me if it was over 6000cfm.

Andrew

My maiden voyage to my buddies house Brad. It is alway good to go to somebody’s house that you know has tools. First drive was 75 miles. I had one loose bolt that allowed the splines sway bar arm to fall off.

Fixed it and drove it back to Sled Alley. Off the the chassis dyno this week.

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Rubber mallet to push the bar back in the splines huh? Been there done that lol

Awesome cars and awesome people. That's what this hobby is all about.

This is my “Race Track” screen. One of the biggest reasons I did Dakota Digital is so I could get this set up. Full analog gauges plus a DIC (Drivers Information Center) that shows - Tire pressures, Engine Oil Temp, Diff Temp and Trans Temp. The only think I don’t have is fuel pressure on the dash. It is on the CAN bus and I thought it would display. I can data log it and look at it later which is sometime better. Something else to sort out.

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To pop the deck lid I use a Year One trunk popper. I have tried other ones and they don’t have enough power to do it.

On the main positive battery cable it runs inside the car. The battery is in the trunk and the cable runs down the rear wheel tub then in the wiring trough under the passenger door sill. Then across the toe pan to a pass through.

Mark


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Mark, I didn't explain myself on the solenoid. I meant a remote starter solenoid in the trunk so the pos. cable is only hot during startup. BTW your car looks great, can't wait to see the dyno specs!!

Also why I went with Dakota Digital, great looking stuff and the ability to do way more than standard gauges.