It will pose a challenge, but you will get through it. LOL

And you will be back on the road again...

What pads are you running?

The offsets were off .394" or so which means I need to fab new spacers for the caliper brackets but that's no biggy.

I'm pretty sure the rears are Wilwood BP-20's and Tobin said those would be near ideal for balance with the Hawk HP+ pads up front. The Dynalite calipers have more clamping force than ideal for the C5 caliper up front so the pad should tame them.

Progress was slower than I'd hoped but still decent progress. Hard lines were built, drop line installed, axles in, offsets checked and need to be altered -0.394". Funeral out of town tomorrow so I'll get back on it Sunday.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...wGCdsXd-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7...7m7mzws-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q...QdVcZcn-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-g...gBXFz48-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5...5B5smqS-XL.jpg

Please stop!!



LOL



Get it??

:confused59:

:sieg:

:twak:

It will have a firm pedal before it rolls. :thumbsup:

There's light at the end of the tunnel! 2 lb. residual valve installed, backing plates located and torqued, caliper brackets shimmed, line brackets painted, lines mounted, wheel clearances verified, Moser C-clip axles are in and the differential refilled. Basically all that's left is to measure e-brake cable lengths and order and bleed the system.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-W...-WfwVcwg-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-G...-Gm9DDmP-L.jpg

I opted to shim with grade 8 washers and one stainless vs the cutting down the aluminum Wilwood spacers.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-p...-pDspCG7-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-f...-fJ4d5mG-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F...-F5pB22Z-L.jpg

While positioning the calipers I noticed one pad didn't want to compress back into the caliper with reasonable force...........so off the calipers came again and I pulled all the pistons and seals figuring if one's questionable the other probably are too.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...-Z54NfBB-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-C...-C4jnwj4-L.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q...-QgPTk4b-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-t...-tvHmXW9-L.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...-w4S5Z9z-L.jpg

A little buffing with a red Scotchbrite pad and good as new.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-v...-v4Vq4WB-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7...-76pjMKg-L.jpg

Seals were easy to pop out with a dental pick, wiped the bores and seals clean, used a Q-tip on the seal grooves, and wiped the seal and piston with a very lite coat of WD-40 before reinstalling. Pistons now move properly in their bores.

100% class!:thumbsup:

Great work Scotty!! Looking clean. :thumbsup:

I've stated before about guys should bleed their brakes on these cars completely once a year because brake fluid is "hygroscopic" meaning - it absorb moisture.... Obviously the moisture in the fluid did a nice job on the stainless pistons!! Thus proof of what I've said in the past.


Really nice job you're doing mister! I hope it's a noticeable improvement when you're all done!

Good as new!