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-   -   Norwood (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36443)

Sieg 03-21-2015 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab (Post 599567)
1 5/8 tubing with a 1" slot cut into it (for cross shaft to fit into) and fits between the arm opening.

:idea: .........finally, justification to buy a mill! :lol:

SSLance 03-22-2015 04:15 AM

It's gonna feel like a new car when done!!

Or at least look like one when when you crawl under the front of it. :D

GregWeld 03-22-2015 06:42 AM

This and the brakes are going to be really nice "improvements". While we know it's only a street driver - these old grey mares ain't what they used to be.... and they need all the help they can get. I did this same kind of upgrades to one of my '69 Camaros (a real Z/28 RS SS) - along with a simple transplant of the 302 with a HO 350 crate motor - a 5 speed - and bolt on Disc brakes in the rear... and THEN I liked driving it!!

BTW -- A good powder coater would have bead blasted those before coating them - and they'd come back so beautiful you'd want to hang them on the wall as art. If you do decide to just paint them -- do yourself a favor and use POR15 -- you will have to clean out the arms where the bushings go because the stuff builds up a pretty good millage. I've found just painting them - they're beat up by the time they get re-installed. I know a good pinstripper in Oregon -- he could lay some nice Hugger Orange do dads on them for ya. LOL

GregWeld 03-22-2015 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 599569)
:idea: .........finally, justification to buy a mill! :lol:




Come over and get mine! I'll then 'have' to buy a new one.....


It ain't the mill that's expensive -- it's the tooling you'll need to be able to actually use it. Oh and a good mill vise - can cost half of what the mill did... you'll need 2 flute cutters for aluminum - and 4 flute for steel - in all the sizes... end mills and ball mills.... and collets for all of 'em... and an indexer... and a coolant pump and tank/recovery system... and all manor of dial indicators and set up tools... and a cabinet to keep all that stuff in.... and 220V 30 amp power... and really good lighting... and it's the size of a refrigerator... so you'll have to add on to the back of the garage... :thumbsup: :poke: :superhack: :G-Dub:

Sieg 03-22-2015 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB400 (Post 599568)
Out of curiosity, what was your method for fixing your stress riser?:popcorn2:

I smoothed it with a Dremel and ran a bead over it with the MIG.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSLance (Post 599574)
It's gonna feel like a new car when done!!

Or at least look like one when when you crawl under the front of it. :D

I'm very interested in what the front suspension will feel under hard braking and turn-in with Delrin bushings vs old OEM rubber. As bad as the OEM rubber looked from the exterior, I pulled a couple apart and the concealed 'bearing' surfaces were actually in good shape.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 599587)
This and the brakes are going to be really nice "improvements". While we know it's only a street driver - these old grey mares ain't what they used to be.... and they need all the help they can get. I did this same kind of upgrades to one of my '69 Camaros (a real Z/28 RS SS) - along with a simple transplant of the 302 with a HO 350 crate motor - a 5 speed - and bolt on Disc brakes in the rear... and THEN I liked driving it!!

BTW -- A good powder coater would have bead blasted those before coating them - and they'd come back so beautiful you'd want to hang them on the wall as art. If you do decide to just paint them -- do yourself a favor and use POR15 -- you will have to clean out the arms where the bushings go because the stuff builds up a pretty good millage. I've found just painting them - they're beat up by the time they get re-installed. I know a good pinstripper in Oregon -- he could lay some nice Hugger Orange do dads on them for ya. LOL

They may still go to the powder coater as I have a gate frame to build that needs to be powdered coated this week.

Is a pinstripper similar to a polestripper? Or were you talking about Mitch "WingBo' Kim the pinstriper?

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 599588)
Come over and get mine! I'll then 'have' to buy a new one.....


It ain't the mill that's expensive -- it's the tooling you'll need to be able to actually use it. Oh and a good mill vise - can cost half of what the mill did... you'll need 2 flute cutters for aluminum - and 4 flute for steel - in all the sizes... end mills and ball mills.... and collets for all of 'em... and an indexer... and a coolant pump and tank/recovery system... and all manor of dial indicators and set up tools... and a cabinet to keep all that stuff in.... and 220V 30 amp power... and really good lighting... and it's the size of a refrigerator... so you'll have to add on to the back of the garage... :thumbsup: :poke: :superhack: :G-Dub:

I'll see you on Wednesday, but only if you throw in the hedge trimmer with the deal............:action-smiley-027:

GregWeld 03-22-2015 07:47 AM

Like Motel 6 - I'll leave the light on for ya.


Doesn't mean that I'll be home now that I've gotten fair warning of your arrival date.


I like pinstripper better than pinstriper. Mitch Kim is EXACTLY who I was thinking of. He did Rudy's.

Sieg 03-22-2015 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSLance (Post 599574)
Or at least look like one when when you crawl under the front of it. :D

Ain't happening Lancelot..............

At some point in Norwood's past, probably in his teenage years, I'm guessing he had a cross country off road trip........so here's the other hot-rodding fix I spent at least two hours on yesterday just so I could run a rod through the lower control arm pick up points to make sure they're in the ballpark.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-j...jWRNVJQ-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...ZgtTS82-XL.jpg

After multiple pulls on the folded lip with a big Crescent wrench and cheater bar, then an incision in the stretch point I ended up with this.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-B...BTZvZgB-XL.jpg

Then this.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...DbTm43g-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-t...tZMJzkB-XL.jpg

O'l Norwood ain't going to win any beauty contests unless Stevie Wonder is judging.

SSLance 03-22-2015 09:04 AM

lol... You know, Ol Foose would have bondo'd up those hammer marks on that after straightening it back out. Jus' sayin'

And what's with all of the oil deposits? I know you don't need any corrosion protection out there. ;)

And that rod through the control arm pickup points trick, where'd you learn that from. http://www.speedinfinity.net/forums/...lt/popcorn.gif

Nice work Sieg, keep it up.

GregWeld 03-22-2015 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSLance (Post 599605)
lol... You know, Ol Foose would have bondo'd up those hammer marks on that after straightening it back out. Jus' sayin'

And what's with all of the oil deposits? I know you don't need any corrosion protection out there. ;)

And that rod through the control arm pickup points trick, where'd you learn that from. http://www.speedinfinity.net/forums/...lt/popcorn.gif

Nice work Sieg, keep it up.


Those come from NOT running an LS motor.....

Vince@Meanstreets 03-22-2015 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 599569)
:idea: .........finally, justification to buy a mill! :lol:

Naw, after see your patience with the bead blaster a normal 2 hours with a die grinder and sanding disk should be good.

Mill, just like Greg says a whole lot of money is the sum of its parts.


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