I saw that car at the last goodguys event here in Aug. They had a display of chassis and the quality looked killer. Yeah, that has a big block merlin right? It was nice, and had bugs on it, which means they drive it. :D

Reason for my interest is that the rear tires on a stock chassis is max 10" on the rear. On my chevelle the chassis is not rigid at all and want a firmer handling and more stable ride. The weight difference would be a interesting issue. Also the time is consuming in redoing the stock frame. It would be nice to roll a new chassis and be ready to finish the paint and body. The price after all the options are definately going to be over 20k and not too pleased about this, but you camaro guys have some awesome chassis options out there.

With the orange 66 chevelle the RS concerts has is a neat car. I do not like any wheel over 18" on a chevelle.. It does not to me look any good. I would like a 18X12 wheel in the rear and a 18X9 in the front. Cornering is not the biggest factor but I want something with 700-850hp and need a stable chassis and rear tire to handle the power on the street.

Thanks for all the input. This decission helps. My project is now a complete redo. Not going to cut coners this time, Had the velle for 22 years now and I want to do the build like I have always wanted.

Blessings,

It takes more then a chassis to fit a 12" wheel, you'll also have to mini tub it.

Hi everyone. Quick intro. My name is Phil and I am one of the owners of the Roadster Shop (RS Performance) and was the one driving the orange Chevelle at Run to The Hillls. I am new to the message boards so bear with me a little.

There are definitely more advantages to our chassis than just strength. Bolt on componets are just that...bolt on. Not to be putting anyone down, but when using an original frame as a starting point there are a good number of limitations that come into play. We are a chassis manufacturer for over 20 years and have always found that if you are looking for a change from stock, the best thing to do is start from scratch and design around the desired outcome rather than work around what is there, and settle for the outcome.

That in mind, we saw that the Chevelle frame and suspension left many things to be desired... performance handling, sloppy steering, body roll, strength, rigidity, accomodating a decent size wheel and tire, lowered ride height and many more.
To check out all of the specifics of the chassis please click on the link below.

http://www.roadstershop.com/rsperformance.htm

If anyone out there is interested in the chassis, I invite you to come talk with us at one of the shows. I would be more than happy to take you for a ride in the car, or around the autocross track (if available). A ride in that car is hands down better than any sales pitch or bench racing over specs!

Upcoming Shows:
Good Guys Ft. Worth, TX 10/5 - 10/7 Autocross event
Good Guys Pleasanton, CA 11/10 - 11/11
Good Guys Scottsdale, AZ 11/16 - 11/18

i like it im with the rest of them stick with the stock frame and build it up. been me id go for art morrison or schwartzperformance.com

Welcome Phil,
Glad you found the site and joined in to the conversation. I have seen the yellow car several times it is a bad ass ride for sure. We have 2 roadster shop frames in the shop right now one for a 57 nomad, one for a 55 pickup. I can tell everyone first hand these frames are hands down the nicest frames out there for tri fives short of having something custom built maybe. I have seen the Chevelle frame and looked over pretty close it has several advantages over a stock frame. You can build up a stock chassis all you want but you still arent going to be able turn worth a dam with a 275 front or stick anything over a 10" wide tire under the rear without major surgery. Trust me I know I would be happy to take pics for anyone because I have a chevelle frame that I cut the hell out of and decided to stop and go with a aftermarket chassis. The one thing the RS frame offers that Art Morrison can not.........is the RS frame bolts in. Buy it bolt it in finsh body work and go on.

I hope you guys sell the **** out of them Phil:thumbsup:

FWIW, my '71 Camaro with a modified LS1 uses 265 front and 295 rear Pilot Sport Cup tires on the track (Portland Raceway). After a 20 min session, the pyrometer shows the rear tires 5-10 degrees hotter than the fronts, even with 4 PSI greater hot pressure.

I notice that high-powered RWD cars with near 50/50 weight balance (Viper, Z06) are often running 50mm or more rear stagger, even in full-race setups. You want that kind of car to keep the rear end stuck down when hard on the throttle exiting turns. Something like, say, a spec Miata is a somewhat different story ...

Finally, keep in mind that a solid axle car provides no provision for negative camber in the rear. Personally, I will run the biggest tires that will fit on both ends, then tune with camber, shocks, and tire pressures.

My 68 "A" body ran 275/17's up front and 11.5" rears. I had one of the tightest turning radius' of any "A" body ever built (thanks to custom uprights and speedway steering arms).

there are exceptions to every rule....:yes: . I havent seen you on here in awhile dennis how are ya?

Still hanging in there.