Great thread Daddy ! I was wondering if it was possible to paint a car in a home garage with today's chemicals and dust and lack of temp control. I've also seen some of these guys bake the finish and be done in like 24 hours.

Anyone have an idea what something like this would cost in a 2 stage system ? I've seen other threads where it looks like about 4 - 5 K just for materials needed.

Are we talking forced air hood/resp in a homemade type booth - or does anyone use or recommend using a non-external air supply respirator ?

(I've budgeted 10K for my minor body work and paint - I won't have any metal work or panel alignment to do)

Daddy - are you planning on some type of temporary booth in your garage ? (something like the PVC pipe and plastic deal ?)

Thx !

:( :(

Yep, temp booth in my garage, lots of plastic, a few box fans, a couple of fliters, and potentiall one of those portable AC units, or at the very least a dehumidifier. gotta love Virginia in the summer, man. :faint:

I was seriously considering going with the Duplicolor Paint Shop products. Premixed primer, color, and clear. Not going to say it's the best product you can buy, but for what I need, I'd think it'd be perfect. Unfortunately, if I can't spray the clear, then there's really no point in it, hmm? Though they say that because it's a lacquer there's no re-coat window. If that applies to the clear as well, I may be able to get through it a section at a time, letting the compressor rejuice. I need to get out and read the label, find out what the flow requirements are.

Is it possible for me to use a smaller detail gun, rather than a big gun, to maintain higher pressure and flow rate, even though I'll have a smaller coverage area? Just a thought. Remember, I'm a total novice when it comes to painting.

I just finished doing body work and priming my car. Unless you do it panel by panel I don't think your compressor is going to cut it. I bought a 80gal 5hp
and it ran alot. Maybe get two compressors and link them together twice the air. I've heard of people doing this. As for painting have you thought of renting a booth? If you plan to use a da sander or air grinder then your compressor will really be working.

I can do it panel by panel and section by section. That's really not a problem. The car is nearly all apart, and it will be pretty soon. I gotta get the doors and trunk lid off when I get back, then remove the body completely to get that suspension cut in.

Maybe you could borrow a friend's 110V compressor and T the two together. Twice the volume and capacity.

You really need to keep the air preasure up! If you doing base/clear ,mainly for the clear.You do'nt want the preasure going up and down to much it could be a disaster:mad: :cheers:

But I don't have any friends... :(

:rofl:

"Anyone have an idea what something like this would cost in a 2 stage system ? I've seen other threads where it looks like about 4 - 5 K just for materials needed."

You can spend 4k if you want on dupont or ppg, and some do because they get used to a paint system and stick to it and never try anything different. However you can spend around 1k on SPI or even house of Kolor and get as good if not better paint job imo.

The BIG paint co's cater to the automtive refinishing system as their bread and butter, smaller co's like SPI & HoK are not bound to the refinish industry as much and are perfect for the small shop or shadetree.

Then if you want to spend even less you can hit tcpglobal and get the restoration shop brand and come out around 500.00, these paints are similar to the omni, nasson line of paints.

" was seriously considering going with the Duplicolor Paint Shop products. Premixed primer, color, and clear. Not going to say it's the best product you can buy, but for what I need, I'd think it'd be perfect."

Dont do it, look at SPI single stage or hell even Eastwood co. single stage. Duplicolor is laquer that has been reforumulated so it passes environmental rules. SPI & even Eastwood are acrylic urethane paints. Urethane is alot more durable than laquer in my opinion. I mean clearcoats are urethane after all.

He could get away with shooting a SS as base then come over it with a 50/50 mix of clear & SS with his little compressor perhaps? I know alot of guys will do that for the last 2 coats simply to add more uv protection.

As for a paint gun you can get away with a northern tool/lowes gun for doing solids, but I would not risk that on a metallic shot. The issue with your compressor is your tank is only 26 gal, that will empty pretty quick so you may get a panel done at a time, but doing long spray runs across an assembled car from bumper to bumper would not happen.

It it were me and I was going to try it with your compressor...
Disassemble the car (front end, doors, trunl lid, spoilers, ec.. off the car) and:

shoot driver quarter/door jamb
shoot rear valance
shoot rear deck
shoot driver sail panel
shoot roof
shoot pillar arms/cowl area
shoot passenger sail panel
shoot passenger quarter
shoot parts you removed

Repeat process until full coverage and done. Since its disassembled you take care of door jambs, cowl, trunk edges when painting car. However for the things like underside of trunk/hood/inside doors/etc... I would shoot them a day before I did the car.

Now someone else may correct me, but if in a pinch that would be how I would try to tackle your problem.

Here are some pics of my first real BC/CC paint job on a friends truck. It is kinda intimidating, but youll never know until you try it for yourself. Granted I did have access to a good paint booth i think my first one turned out pretty good.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/70twoo/ffed.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/70twoo/efe.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/70twoo/fdsa.jpg