If your still unsure, call of couple of body shops and see what they use.

The Miller 175 is a good machine, but then you have to have a plug in or two, or a heavy long extension cord, anything over a 110 is not to practical for auto body work.

I have put mine into the back of a pickup and went across town and welded some stuff up, any 110 household current, they are handy.

Rob

My vote would be for the 110v unit if you will be doing 75% sheet metal work. The size of the gun and cable will be smaller and the heat range adjustments will be finer and more precise allowing for better work. And you will still be able to do a good job on 3/16 material which is almost everything structural in the chassis. Get 130 amp unit and a good cord and enjoy. Look for a unit where the heat range adjustment is variable and not 10 individual notches. I have been fustrated before wanting a half step. I also agree with the .023 wire size. .030 is too large for nice sheet metal work.

You are 100% correct. the 023 wire is the trick. You want the wire to melt before the sheetmetal. If the wire is thicker then your material you will burn up the material quickly. When you weld sheetmetal just be sure you have someway to cool that panel after your tack welds, whether by compressed air or a wet rag. Just work slow. I have 2 110 voly migs that we use for tacking up sheetmetal panels before we tig them in place. Or on a panel we can not get behind to metalfinish. I like the infinite adjustment of the miller 110 and I have had better experience with there parts warranty then a lincoln. I have 7 millers and one lincoln. But I have had my 220 volt lincoln since day 1. 7 years ago. I had a parts replacement issue with my lincoln and have always bought miller ever since.

Good luck, I bought my first welder 8 years ago and the rest is history. Anything is possible with welding.

After years of using a 110 volt Craftsman I purchased a Hobart 187 back around Christmas. I couldn't be happier with it. It performs better than the 110 volt on sheet metal and has the ability to make nice welds on thicker material. I also purchased mine from Tractor Supply with a 10% discount coupon they sent in the mail. Something else that may help you is knowing that Hobart is now owned by Miller.

I have a 110V Miller (Think it's a 135.. It's over a friends house right now so I can't check) and LOVE it..
I've done everything from sheet metal to making my own box frame for my Rat Rod..
As stated earlier, it will be more than enough for welding to a stock frame, as they are thin, and mine had great penetration on much thicker..

I am the proud owner of a Millermatic 175 now.

Against most of the recommendations here, I went for a 230V unit, but I did get a heck of a deal on it. Now I just have to improve the user, so next up is a welding class at a local vocational school. Then it's on to making that hunk of metal in my garage into a car again.

Should be fun, and I can't wait to get started! :cheers:

Good luck that is how I started almost 10 years ago. The best thing I ever did. Obviously......

mig welder 110v
 

not to crash the thread :D but this might help others i was wondering for myself what are the pros and cons with a welder like miller 140 vs miller 140 autoset? this would be used for sheetmetal work mostly but would also be used around house. i am curious what you guys recomm before cashing in on a 110v welder ( i want something portable etc other wise i would get a 180 or bigger welder). thanks guys

I recently purchased a HH187 and could not be more happy with it. Try it and you will not be disappointed.You can have one for a great deal if you look a little.

I did pretty much the opposite of everyone here and bought a Millermatic 251. In hindsight I wish I would have settled for a 210 and put the extra money towards TIG machine or plasma.

I am quite happy with my machine though, and through a bunch of side jobs it has paid for itself 3 or 4 times over.