Do you guys back gas the inside of the tubes to purge the air when welding?

Its only necessary on stainless

I wrote this a long time ago, but it may have a tip or two you might find useful:

Car Craft Header Story

jp

allways backpurge stainless. makes the joint 10x's stornger.

Here are a couple of tips I came up with that work really well for the novice. Use a slip collector, the kind that all your tubes slip into. Some are expensive, such as Burns and some are very reasonable, like Dynatech. Attach them where you want them to be when the headers are installed. I wanted my long tube headers to end near the transmission crossmember so I wired the collectors to it. Now go to Home Depot and buy some hub to hub stainless steel clamps, the kind that have 2 straps mounted to a corrigated center section. Throw away the rubber seal and cut 3 windows in the center piece at 12, 4, and 8 o,clock. Now start cutting your U and J bends and connect them together using the clamps. You can rotate the bends to get them aimed where you want them and when you have one tube connected from the flange to the collector, you can tack them together through the windows that you cut into the clamps. I prefer to not weld the collector to the tubes but rather bolt them together using tabs that are welded to the sides of the tubes.

Josh,

The pictures are uploaded onto Cone's website (from the pdf file I sent you) if you want to check it out (better resolution, etc).

http://www.coneeng.com/weld_on_collector_kit.html

Also, check out Two Guys Garage this Saturday (9:30am EST) on the Speed Channel. They are building headers and a custom exhaust using components from Cone Engineering for a 61 Impala (built by Fuller Hot Rods) with an Art Morrison Chassis, 572 big block, etc.

I'd love to see some pics of the headers that any of you guys have built. :thumbsup: