True, you may not need it, but it does work awesome. Adding Hydroboost to your Wilwoods would be like... well... adding twin turbos to a 427 CID LS1. :D

I will be running LS1 brakes with Hydroboost. I couldn't see paying for a name for entry level brakes, and I can't afford the good stuff right now. There is more important stuff to buy.

Mike

Basic Baer/PBR setup here. What really makes it work though is the hydroboost from Paul. Brakes were OK before, but are now stupid-good with the hydroboost.

Howard-- at the risk of stating the obvious (and please don't be offended if I do) Wilwood is correct. A hydroboost becomes less important as you move to a caliper with more piston area (i.e. a 6 piston caliper) as the greater piston area requires less line pressure to generate adequate clamping power. However, for setups with lesser piston area (i.e. PBR calipers) the only option to make them bite harder is to increase the line pressure, which is where the hydroboost comes in-- you can get mega line pressure out of a larger bore MC so you still maintain reasonable pedal travel. Otherwise to generate those line pressures you are looking at a small bore MC with a large pedal ratio, which means uber-long pedal travel.

You can most definately run a hydroboost with large piston area brakes, but it really won't be needed if piston area, MC bore size, and pedal ratio are properly matched. Running a hydroboost with large piston area brakes will makes TONS of braking power available, however at the expense of reduced pedal "feel." It also means you can run a larger bore MC and cut down on pedal travel if that interests you. There is nothing like the feedback offered by a PROPERLY designed manual brake system, but the hydroboost gives good feedback too, especially if it's a tweaked and bluprinted unit; far better feedback than a vacuum booster IMO.

Personally, I'm waiting for Jody to post pics of his seatbelt-bruised chest after he tries his Hydroboost/Alcon combo for the first time. :P

You should REALLY check these guys out for a more affordable option:


Touring-Classics

Wow that is a great setup. I hate that the C5 kit doesn't fit the TTII and I'd have to get the hybrid setup with a thinner rotor. I must change my sig.

I am a little suprized that nobody mentioned AP Racing for the calipers. If I were to upgrade, it would likely be to AP brakes.

http://www.apracing.com/

The rarest brake setup on the site!!! 4 WHEEL DRUMS BABY!! I dont even know what baers would feel like, and its not like I drive much or fast, I am like an old lady when I drive the Camaro, so it works for me.

Tim

It's not like I could tell you how my brakes perform yet, considering they've been in boxes for the past 2 months, but I got myself the Baer GT+ system with 14 inch front rotors and I'm using their touring 12" disc system on the rear with PBR calipers all around.

I liked the GT+ system versus the track system because of the extra rotor surface area (275's up front will use the 14 inch rotor nicely) plus it uses the new C5 caliper versus the old C4 caliper, given the C4 caliper is still amazing as well for resto-mods.


Oh yeah, plus I got my kit for DIRTTTTT cheap :thumbsup:

I'm running Baer's 13" Track front and 12" Touring rear kits with two-piece Eradispeed rotors on my 69 El Camino. We didn't use the m/c Baer supplied but I'll be darned if I can remember what unit we ended up with. Whatever it is,the brakes are very strong and linear with a firm pedal.
However,I'm thinking about going for Baer's new six piston caliper set-up.

C5 corvette front and rear (LS1), + Hydroboost.

IMHO...what I tell guys who think that their original brakes are "good enough" is to consider that, when you are surrounded by modern vehicles out on the roads, you'd better be sure you have some damn good brakes, because they all do, when compared to the stock 1950's technology on 60's musclecars.

Or...just make sure there is never anyone driving a modern car out in front of you...:D