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Quote:

Originally Posted by kovert (Post 159298)

this is good info thanks guys .... fesler what brand paint is used on that camaro ???? ppg?

ive shot ppg dupont and the shop i work at now uses diamont / basf .. its nice stuff ive allso heard debears is is a real nice aswell

and si if its a harder clear to cut and buff does this euro clear more durable or les likely to get fine scratches after buffing???? last car i shot black i used trans something and it scratched real easy

Doing some research on black paint I was also wondering what brand of paint fesler used on this camaro? Thanks...

When your shopping for blacks try to find a blue black and not a brown black.

I agree with Chris. Prep is key on anything before paint, be it drywall work in your house or powder coating parts. prep, prep, prep. Look at the cars Chris builds, dude knows what he is talking about when it comes to paint.

Darren

Obviously like everyone else says prep is everything, skim coat filler and lots of blocking.
I use Sherwin Williams paints mostly 3-4 coats base, 3-4 coats clear. Sit for couple weeks before i cut and buff the allow for any shrinking then cut with 1500 and buff using 3m perfect it compound, mothers swirl mark remover and finally polish out with 3m Finesse It Polish.

Heres what it looks like after;
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...h/Mar50915.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...h/Mar50911.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...X/HPIM1405.jpg
Im 23 years old and have only been painting for about a year consistantly and if I can do this I think anybody can lol

Back from the dead

Fesler, who makes that black paint on that 69?

or anyone on here know of the best Blueish/Greyish black

the darkest?

thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by NovaBlue71 (Post 159120)

What you really need to do is get with a painter or paint supplier and see what black's are offered in the paint line of your choice. There are a few different shades of black's some black's will look almost yellow compared to some. Look for a black that has some blue shade to it. Glasurit has a #1250 deep black that is nice and rich looking.But all the paint companies have alot to chose from.If you have done your body prep and bodywork right there should be no reason to poly-prime twice and block four times.Find the right guy to work on your car and you should be able to poly prime and block twice and be where you need to be . Also don't waste your time sanding with #1000 on your first cut or it still will have some urethane wave when you look down the side of car. I think you can get away with it if you do a flow coat which has been 400/600 and recleared.Just my 2-cents Joe. :)

Absolutely! For a pristine finish, we always start color sanding with 500-600 grit paper. 1000 will never get it totally flat. Of course, I always make sure to put 5-6 coats of clear on so there is a good margin of clear left after sanding.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70TWO NOVA (Post 221528)

Obviously like everyone else says prep is everything, skim coat filler and lots of blocking.
I use Sherwin Williams paints mostly 3-4 coats base, 3-4 coats clear. Sit for couple weeks before i cut and buff the allow for any shrinking then cut with 1500 and buff using 3m perfect it compound, mothers swirl mark remover and finally polish out with 3m Finesse It Polish.

Im 23 years old and have only been painting for about a year consistantly and if I can do this I think anybody can lol

WoWWWWW!

Quote:

Originally Posted by firewood (Post 264246)

WoWWWWW!

sarcasm?...lol