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-   -   TVS2300 anyone?? (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18781)

Bowtieracing 07-28-2009 12:41 PM

Harrop /Maggie /ZR1 if i have understood correct they all are same Eaton units. Just custom drives and inlet pieces by seller ?


But is there really anything wrong with maggie drive vs harrop? I personally like the looks of maggie unit with center tb placement over harrop and ZR1.

Crate LS3+Maggie ,lower price than crate LS7.

Nine Ball 07-28-2009 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowtieracing (Post 225717)
Harrop /Maggie /ZR1 if i have understood correct they all are same Eaton units. Just custom drives and inlet pieces by seller ?


But is there really anything wrong with maggie drive vs harrop? I personally like the looks of maggie unit with center tb placement over harrop and ZR1.

Crate LS3+Maggie ,lower price than crate LS7.

Correct, they are all Eaton units. Lower intake manifolds, snout/pulley/throttle arrangements are custom. Performance wise, they are the same.

camcojb 07-28-2009 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowtieracing (Post 225717)
Harrop /Maggie /ZR1 if i have understood correct they all are same Eaton units. Just custom drives and inlet pieces by seller ?


But is there really anything wrong with maggie drive vs harrop? I personally like the looks of maggie unit with center tb placement over harrop and ZR1.

Crate LS3+Maggie ,lower price than crate LS7.

I prefer the looks of the Maggie myself. The Harrop probably puts less stress on the crankshaft snout, but it has that rear pulley deal which may cause clearance issues on a car like my Chevelle that has limited firewall clearance. Also, air temps are an issue with both of these blowers, not for a strong street deal, but for a track car or high hp build they may not be ideal. I'm re-thinking selling my turbo setup.

Jody

BBC71Nova 07-28-2009 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camcojb (Post 225728)
I prefer the looks of the Maggie myself. The Harrop probably puts less stress on the crankshaft snout, but it has that rear pulley deal which may cause clearance issues on a car like my Chevelle that has limited firewall clearance. Also, air temps are an issue with both of these blowers, not for a strong street deal, but for a track car or high hp build they may not be ideal. I'm re-thinking selling my turbo setup.

Jody

Guess that is why the for sale thread disappeared :yes: . Boy it sure was cool to look at and dream though. Nothing like an ultra clean turbo setup...and Nelson stuff to boot :thumbsup: . Guess I can take my fleabay ad down now where I was trying to whore myself out to purchase your turbo setup :lateral:

John

Bowtieracing 07-28-2009 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camcojb (Post 225728)
... Also, air temps are an issue with both of these blowers, not for a strong street deal, but for a track car or high hp build they may not be ideal. I'm re-thinking selling my turbo setup.

Jody

But are they really? Ofcourse unit itself is a huge junk on metal wich heats up but how about building custom - as wide as possible - cooler for the water in front of the car ? I think personally at broblem is usually too small units due "must be bolt" reasons for newer cars.

XcYZ 07-29-2009 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nine Ball (Post 225712)
My TVS2300 arrived last week for the 2010 Camaro. Probably install it next week.

Pics of the car:

http://www.planetlsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2473

Looks fantastic with the IF wheels. Keep us posted on the intall. I'm real curious what you think of the car with the added rwhp.

camcojb 07-29-2009 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowtieracing (Post 225845)
But are they really? Ofcourse unit itself is a huge junk on metal wich heats up but how about building custom - as wide as possible - cooler for the water in front of the car ? I think personally at broblem is usually too small units due "must be bolt" reasons for newer cars.

well, the air temps out of the blower were measured at 200 degrees on the dyno. Due to the dimensions of the normal Chevy V8's there's only so much room for an intercooler, so even if you have ice water you can only get a certain amount of temp drop. Now the Ford mod motors are much wider (and deeper) blocks between the heads without a camshaft in the way, and apparently can get a more efficient intercooler core in them, as the air temps after the intercooler on my Lightning were much better than what they're seeing on these. You are correct, a better heat exchanger to lower water temps through the intercooler will help, but it's still going to be compromised by the size and efficiency of the intercooler core. These blowers work great on the street, and I am in no way bashing them. I still like the idea, but I'm wanting to make 800-850 hp on pump gas and I don't think it'll get me there, except on an ice cold dyno run condition. Now, adding a small shot of nitrous would do it, wouldn't take much at all either, so that's a thought.

As far as my power goal, a 700 hp Maggie or Harrop setup would be a lot of fun to drive if my car was a six speed. But as an auto I've found it takes more power to get the same "feel" of acceleration, the auto trans with fewer gears and bigger drops in rpm at gear changes feels lazier to me as compared to a manual 5 or 6 speed setup. My procharged Camaro felt strong with the 2004R trans, but was a total animal when I swapped to the TKO 5 speed. Same car and HP (over 800 rwhp) but the gear multiplication changed everything.

Jody

camcojb 07-31-2009 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky67 (Post 226395)
Jody, I am not sure where are you getting your air temp data, but Rich Gala (former W2W) never recorded that high of air temp on my engine dyno. Anyway, I have both drawings from Harrop on the Intercooler design, and I talked to Gerhard Schruf from Bell Intercoolers about designing a better heat exchanger for my 67 Camaro. Although, Gerhard recommends a different intercooler pump than the (Ford Lightening) Bosch pump for engines from the 700 to 900 hp range. The Bosch pump flows around 8 GPM. According to Gerhard, the minimum Water-Flow-Rate for an Engine-Output of 700 -900 HP is 15 GPM; considering the Sensitivity of Pumps to Head-Pressure, Gerhard recommends to purchase a Pump with a nominal Capacity of about 23 GPM. Actually, that pump that he recommends is from Dedenbear.

As for 800 to 850 hp, well, the only trick that I didn't do on mine was the L92 VVT cam mod, but Lance Nist of Pantera Efi has got about 100 hp with that modification. If you want to change to an LSX block, then this Harrop from Thompson Engines made close to your hp range. Actually, I think Michael Hewitt of Harrop told me it made around 930 hp, but I think it was the other camshaft. http://www.thomsonengines.com/downlo...Enthusiast.pdf Actually,. Michael Hewitt emailed me the latest pricing sheets this week.

Jeff


http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

not yours, another members engine. I believe the temps, he has no reason to exagerrate. Why would I need an LSX block, how much boost does it take to make 930 hp? And, is it repeatable at normal street engine temps, or a special ice cold run for a big number? Magnachargers version has passed that number, but as a dyno chasing deal only with non-normal water temps to keep the air temps down.

Jody

Musclerodz 07-31-2009 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camcojb (Post 225638)
I am looking for something like this. I was leaning towards a Magnacharger TVS2300, but the drive was going to be an issue. How much power can this support and please pm me a price. Does/can Wegner do a custom drive for a Maggie system?

Jody

Wegner is working on a LS3/tvs2300 drive now. Casey confirmed it with me a couple days ago. He is just waiting on a unit to show up to get started

camcojb 08-01-2009 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky67 (Post 226517)
Well, Rich Gala brought up the other member dyno results that day. Rich did the dyno tune on both engines. Was the other member there that day that dyno was run on his engine? I was standing right next to Rich, during my dyno testing. Anyway, my engine builder noticed some issues on how the other member's dyno sheet. The other member's dyno was done on a DTS engine dyno and DTS uses a correction factor on horsepower/torque. There is some math mistakes on the other members dyno sheet around 5250. My engine was done on an old reliable Superflow 901 and it doesn't have correction factor built into it. Anyway, Rich didn't think that had put an intercooler pump on that other member's engine either.

Actually, that Solistice engine with the Harrop was one of the first built. Long before Magnacharger ran their LSX 434 engine. Michael Hewitt just told me about the 930 hp number. I wasn't building an LSX block engine, so why should I care about it? If I was building a big horsepower engine, then I would have gone with the LSX block, because it is drilled for the 6 bolt heads. The LS3 block has some nice features too, because you do the L92 VVT mod and the oil squirters. Although, I am not sure if you can do that on the LSX block. Regardless of brand of supercharger that you chose, you are still limited by the choice of cylinder heads.

Michael Hewitt said that Solistice went on the Power Tour in 2008, but if you have questions then I suggest you contact the Bill Thompson of Thompsom automotive. http://www.thomsonengines.com/home.c...t=solstice.cfm He can better answer your questions than me.

I still don't understand on why you want to change from turbos to a supercharger?

Jeff

http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

The info I got was from the engine builder; don't want to put him in the middle. He is an expert on forced induction LSX's.

My thought on the blower was from fighting these oil drains on the turbos. Because I put the turbos so low the drain lines are not as vertical as optimum and from time to time when idling for a prolonged period it will start to smoke a little. The Nelson flanges allow me to move the turbos up/out and would solve this issue, but then the downpipes, wastegate plumbing, and all the cold air tubes would have to be completely re-done, and I just am not up for that.

I ordered a 25# pressure regulator which may solve it, as my hot idle oil pressure is about 40 psi and more than needed. If not they have a scavenge pump to eliminate the issue but that's several hundred dollars and more plumbing/wiring. I was tired of screwing with it so decided a blower would be cool, very oem look, and still make good power. I hate to drop from 1000 to 700 though, so that's why I'm doing more research.

Jody


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