I would say so. Unhook the gauge as well to see if it goes back below empty. Places to look would be under your seal plates, sharp eges of the dash, and around the wheel tub in the trunk.

oooooooooops
 

Yep, sorry- my bad..brown = 12v to the running lamps. When you say you got a complete circuit, are you saying that you're seeing the light come on in your test light?

An easy way to test this is to get a 50 ohm resistor (1w) & jumper the Tan wire-through the resistor-the other end of the resistor to ground. If your wires are good up to that point, you should see about a half tank on your gauge (with the key on, of course).

My apologies for the confusion.

update
 

With the key on and the plug at the rear unplugged to the sender the gauge reads way past full. ground the connection and the gauge falls to empty. so i assume the gauge is good and there are no "shorts in the sender wire. therefore, i have a bad sender or a loose wire at the top of the tank right?

thanks for the help, will drop the tank this weekend

Check the ground near the front of the tank near the rearend. A bad ground there will cause your problem. If you need to replace the sender, I STRONGLY recommend the pricey GM sender ($200) over the cheap import ($59). I see at least 1/2 of the cheap ones fail. Always test your new sender with an ohm meter (your old one too) by hooking up your meter & checking that it reads zero @ empty and 90 at full.

I know the GM unit is expensive, but it's worth it!! I swear the aftermarket senders are allergic to gas..:mad:

Also make sure your float is still adjusted properly sometimes if you have an aftermarket one they can come loose but it does sound like you have a bad wire somewhere if it does still still read a voltage but on the off cahnce your float is jacked up you might want to check it out. just my .02