Hmmm, I thought I was very polite.

I figured on running the stock 15/16" bar, but the AFCO lowers don't have any place for the end link to go. I thought I'd give it a try w/o a bar first before I go welding something to my shiny new arms.

Stick around, this really is a great place to learn, and an awesome place to hang out. The commeraderie is incredible on this site, and the cars... all I can say is "WOW" :yes: :unibrow:

There are a lot of opinions when it comes to anything technical, especially if there is more than one way to achieve something. With something as subjective as ride-quality, there will always be differing opinions.

You were a little rough on the fella. :_paranoid You offer good advice (I hope! because I've taken a lot of it :D ), but in a "don't sugar-coat it" sort of way ;)

Well, Den, I thought you were too, didn't see anything abrasive?

Just keep in mind, one spring rating for a given platform is not likely going to give the same response in a differnt platform, i.e. comparing a Chevelle to a Miata, Camaro, Mustang, etc. In all cases, the motion ratio of the various suspension designs will come into play, what really matters is what is happening at the wheel itself (wheel rate).

This statement caught my eye. Not a good thing for basically any street suspension, but CERTAINLY not a converging four link, like the early Chevelles, later model Mustangs, etc. These systems depend upon bushing compliance (flex, compression, whatever you want to call it) to allow the suspension to roll. Without bushing compliance, the system will look for something else to flex, it "has" to, and the "else" is comprised of the chassis, differential housing, control arms, and everything else in between.

A four link sytem, whether it is a converging tyoe (Chevelle system), or a parallel/less converging setup, is over-constrained mechanically. Period. The only reason they work in roll, in the real world, is because something flexes in the system (again, it might be chassis, control arms, most likely bushings if they are not solid rod ends).

Mark

Flat black, we`ve done a lot of R&D on A bodys over the years. A simple combo we`ve had good results from starts with our Street Comp Stage 2 package. The A body stock geometry is pretty lousy and it has a lot of bumpsteer. The Stg.2 revises the geometry to be more in line with what you`d get on a modern performance car,improves the factory bumpsteer about 85%,which makes the car nicer and easier to drive hard and lowers the car about 3/4". Run this with a stock size front bar (you won`t need a big "band aid bar") and stock rear bar. With a set of Eibach lowering springs all the way around you`ll have about 2" of drop front and 1.5" or so rear. Finish it off with a really good set of shocks and you have a really nice driving car that handles very well and has just a little understeer to keep you out of trouble. Marcus SC&C

Mean 69, I should clarify. My rear suspension will be all rod-end spherical bearings from wolfe racecraft, not solid "bushings". My front (already have the parts, so no turning back) will consist of AFCO lowers with rod-ends and SPC Adjustable uppers with solid bushings.

I really don't think the front will be much, if any, harsher than using delrin bushings. In the rear, I currently have all poly, and well, it's horrible to put it lightly. :rolleyes: I truly believe it will ride better when i'm done than it does now with the poly rear bushings.

That's your first post on this site?? Sheesh. :(

Hey, thanks to all you guys for your advice. Just reading this thread, I"ve learned quite a bit I didn't know. And Marcus, this was kinda just what I was looking for.....thanks man..... :hail:

No sweat. :) Marcus SC&C