By the way -- unless you're building a high zoot car -- to show etc --- you don't really need powder coating for a good finish on the frame and running gear --- ever tried POR-15?? You can brush -- or roll and back brush (called tipping off) with a brush.... and if you're stuff is really clean - and your area is fairly dust free... you can get a fabulous finish with the stuff.

We did my buddies 55 Post - had it on the rotisserie -- cleaned it with a propane torch ( a soft flame heats the "tar" and gunk up just a bit) making it MUCH MUCH easier to scrape with scrapers - metal and plastic versions -- then cleaned it MULTIPLE TIMES - with mineral spirits - then with a paint pre-prep until our white rags didn't show any residue... then rolled (small 3" rollers on a cage with real fine oil paint rollers) and back brushed it... came out flawless like it was sprayed.

I have spray equipment - the one guy rolling the other tipping off was faster - less messy and easy peasy.

Tell you one thing if you've never used it before - this crap - when it gets on something - ain't NEVER coming off... that includes the cement floor... your skin - or your frame or underbelly!! Seriously... it's the hardest damn stuff I've even seen! It's just got to be clean! Drying time is "longish" so the dust free - or pretty lint and dust free area is important. We left the body rolled onto it's "side" so the lint in the air wouldn't settle on it. Worked out great.
:cheers:

Hell BOY!!! I'm from the great Pacific NorthWET -- that sun and heat down there'd kill me!!

Besides -- I hate snakes!

You need to beg borrow or steal one of these pieces of garage gear!!!



http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...upholstery.jpg

for future reference.. you can use ppg dt reducer to clean up.. it gets about 98% of it off.. it also works well to get the 3m panel bond off of your skin.. just soak a rag in it and get to scrubbing..

I am questioning your thoughts on having to narrow the frame and the rearend to get a 10" wide tire on the rear of your car. I have a 66 GTO which is pretty much the same frame as your chevelle and i have a 20" x 10" wheel with a 265/30/r20 tire and have not modified the frame, fenderwells, or the rearend in any way. I know that '65 was the last year for the smaller body A-bodies but i don't think that the fenderwells are that much smaller. i think that if you want to fit a 10" wheel in the rear with the least headache and downtime, you just need to take some very careful measurements and get a wheel with the perfect backspacing. That's what I did and it worked perfectly. I have just about 1/4" of space on either side of the tire sidewall and the tire sits about 2" up in the fenderwell. If you decide to go this route i suggest that you either buy or try to borrow a Percy's Wheel-Rite tool. It will allow you to simulate your desired wheel and tire combo and check for interference. Once you are sure that everything fits it will give you the correct backspace reading for the wheel that you need. I have attached some pics of my car to give you a better idea.

64/5 Chevelle rear fenderwell is quite a bit smaller than the 66/7's. I have a 3" minitub and 17X11's which have about 5/8" clearance inside and outside, with rolled inner fenderwells. There is no way a 10" wheel will clear on the earlier cars without a minitub.

Jody

yeah, i wasn't sure how much smaller they were. i've built two '65 GTOs but they have both been stock style restorations so i didn't have to worry about this issue.

I am not sure what the budget is, but it would seem to me a second frame built up by you would cost less than just rolling your car to a shop and letting them go at it. You could also look into a Schwartz or Art Morrison chassis built to your specs with suspension and a rear end ready to go. You could have it delivered to your door and not have to take your car anywhere of you can do the mini tub project at home. Just a thought. Best of luck with the project. Post some pics of how it is now please.:cheers: