Yeah, actually the arms are not supposed to be used to set initial alignment. You should still use the shim packs to baseline it and use the arm links for track fine tuning.

But doesn't doing that fine tuning change the length of the arm and there for the camber curve and the geometry? How do You effect one without effecting the other? How do You work from a base line setting when everything changes all the time?

The changes during the track tuning process are fairly small and won't effect the geometry enough to cause problems. Typically the street alignment is done with shims and a race setup is done while on the machine using the links. That way the links can marked and easily duplicated at the track.

I agree that using adjustable arms does change the UCA length which in tun changes pretty much every aspect of the geometry as a whole, but as long the changes are small the geometry changes are minimal and not of any consequence.

Hmmm... that's not quite what I had in mind. I was thinking I could have it aligned for the street with no shims, and then have it aligned for the track with shims, keeping the arm lengths locked in. That way, it would be easy to duplicate the alignment specs multiple times from track-days to street-driving without needing to take it to someone who knows what they are doing on the alignment rack. :_paranoid

Assuming there are no major differences in length from one side to the other, would there be any problems doing it this way?

My dad owns some old alignment equipment (got it when he bought out another body-shop's frame equipment) but neither he nor I have ever used it. :willy:

That works too Derek, just a little more time consuming. It would be easier to produce repeatable settings that way, now why didn't I think of that. :rolleyes:

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm................... :_paranoid

Time to give Marcus a call?