John nice write up on the build, you did a great job. Oh and I love you choice of sanding blocks.

Thanks Wayne! You should see one of the other sanding blocks, it's a 1 quart paint can that has a piece of 80 grit sticky paper made for DAs stuck to it. The can is the same curve as the steering column notch! LOL
.................................................. .................................................. .

Now its time to set up the wiper and headlight switch area. The lights switch provided with an American Autowire update kit is the same mounting and wiring setup but has a cool chrome switch shaft and billet aluminum knob. Because it uses the same mounting and the same wiring connector as a stock original I'm using an old light switch in the mock up pictures and will install the new switch in the newly reconditioned dash from Restore a Musclecar when the dash and panel are installed in the car.

If you are using a stock wiper switch cut the light switch and wiper openings out of the posterboard, check to be sure everything lines up in the actual dash, then transfer to the plastic sheet with the grease pencil. Then cut and finish the openings.

The aftermarket delay wiper switch is more of a challenge. The kit is made for Camaros of the same vintage and the mounting bracket provided will not work in a Firebird dash. A new bracket has to be made. The original wiper switch face was recessed into the dash. Because the front of the new carbon fiber facia will be out farther from the dash the bracket has to bring the new switch out far enough so the base of the switch shaft will end up flush with the backside of the carbon facia. A trim ring screws on the switch shaft after the panel is installed in the dash to cover the hole around the switch shaft. The dash framework under the wiper switch has to be clearanced to fit the bigger switch into the area where the old sliding switch was. Use a hand held hacksaw blade holder to cut the dash plastic then break off the pieces with pliers. If you try to move the wiper switch higher you will not have enough space for the light switch wiring harness which plugs into the bottom of the light switch. The camaro bracket is on the left and our new fabricated bracket on the right.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild144.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild137.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild138.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild148.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild139.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild145.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild151.jpg

At this point you should have a plastic sheet with all of the openings you'll need for gauges, switches, turn indicators, and the vent. You can put the bezel on the plastic sheet and test fit it one last time in the dash. If everything looks good it's now time to use the plastic sheet as a template to mark the carbon fiber sheet that will be the new facia.

The sheet comes with a protective coatiing on it. If you can't see through the protective film well you can remove enough of it to examine the carbon fiber for imperfections etc. in the weave. Most of these sheets are laid up by hand so there are minor variances in the appearance. Its not like the fake stuff with a perfect look. Also there may be minor scuffs or scratches from handling even with the protective coating. Minor scuffs or scratches can be fixed later if necessary by scuff sanding the surface then clear coating and polishing. Pick the nicest looking side and then lay your plastic template on it trying to line up any imperfections where they will end up where an opening will be cut out. Tape the plastic in place and mark the carbon sheet with a grease pencil.

Cut the carbon fiber panel out of the sheet with a cutoff tool. Wear a respirator and eye protection. You may also want to wear latex or nitrile gloves as the fibers may irritate the skin like fiberglass does. You can not cut the carbon with a Dremel tool so forget even thinking about trying it. This is tough stuff as you're about to find out.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild102.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild104.jpg

Now you need to file and sand the Carbon fiber (refered to as CF from now on) facia till you have an exact fit in the bezel. A fine toothed metal file works well to rough it in and then and finish with 80 grit sandpaper. When you think you've got the fit correct put the CF facia in the bezel and then put the original stock facia behind that and use some clamps to hold everything. This way you'll be able to check for a more exact fit.

The center area by the steering column can not be taller than the original facia or it will be very difficult to install the completed panel in the dash. It is easy to end up with the center of the panel too tall and have it still fit in the bezel when you are fitting it without the original bezel in place because of the flexibility of the bezel. If it is too tall there it will also be difficult to pop rivet the completed assembly together later so be sure the CF panel is exact.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild088.jpg

Now that you have the CF facia outline finished it's time to make all of the other openings. First cover the front side with masking tape so you don't scuff it or scratch it up. Cut the holes for the gauges with a hole saw using a drill press. Make sure you have wood under the CF facia and clamp it down when drilling. You will need Bi-metal hole saws to cut the holes. If you're using the 5" and 2 3/16" gauges you will need a 4 1/4", a 2 1/8", and a 1 1/8" for the lighter and headlight holes. Once the holes are drilled you will need to file and sand the openings to the correct dimensions.

You can cut out the vent and Vintage air controller openings with the cutoff tool and then file and sand to finish.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild118.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild107.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild108.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild115.jpg

With the openings completed you will now be able to modify the original facia which will be used to provide support and allow assemble of the new panel. The idea is that the new CF facia will be sandwiched in between the leading edge of the bezel and the original facia. This is what holds the new CF facia in place, provides for stock mounting fasteners to be used , and allows you to use the bezel which gives the new panel the "look" because of the outline it creates around the CF panel.

Lay the CF facia on a bench and place the stock facia on top of that. Then you will see where you need to cut the stock facia to allow the gauges etc. to protrude through. You can cut the stock facia with a cutoff tool and then file to make it look neater and get rid of sharp edges you might get cut on or that might nick a wire. Be sure to leave vertical supports, do not cut out everything but the outside edge.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild117.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild119.jpg

With the original facia now clearanced you can assemble the bezel, CF facia, and the modified stock facia then clamp them together. This will allow you to mock up the panel and have some fun seeing what your new dash is going to look like.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild121.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild127.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild130.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild133.jpg

Now that you've had a glimpse of the future for your dash it's time to get back to work.

Take everything out and put all the gauges back in the boxes except one of each size along with one bracket for each that holds the gauge in place and 2 nuts, no need for lockwashers. Take the original facia and bezel off. Use some wax and grease remover to clean the original bezel in the area surrounding the vent hole then paint it flat black. You only need to do the area around the vent because the rest will be hidden but if the vent area is left shiny or wood tone you'll be able to see it after the panel is inserted into the dash.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild164.jpg

Now it's time to modify the dash structure for clearance for the gauges. You should put some masking tape around the edge of the CF panel because you will be putting it into the dash several times to check for clearance of each gauge. Do not try to assemble the pieces of the new panel yet. ONLY USE THE CARBON FIBER FACIA WITH ONE GAUGE AT A TIME TO CHECK CLEARANCE.

In the pictures below I put white paint on the areas of the dash framework where you will have to cut the plastic away. It is much easier if your dash is out of the car but if it is in the car it can be done, it's just more of a pain to work in there.

You can use a fine toothed hacksaw blade with a hand held blade holder to cut the plastic and then break out chunks as you work your way across the area where the panel fits into the dash. Once you think you've got it set then install one gauge with the retaining bracket screwed onto it in the CF facia and place the facia into position to check clearance for that gauge. Repeat for all gauge openings.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild201.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild202.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild203.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild206.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild208.jpg

Once you've got the dash clearanced you need to set up the lighter bracket assembly. The bracket itself needs to be modified to provide clearance because it has to move out from the dash to meet the new CF facia. When the bracket moves forward it will contact the bezel so it has to be notched as shown in the pic below.

Next you need to space the lighter bracket out away from the dash panel. The reason for this is because the new cf facia is flat and the original facia was recessed around the lighter. You can do this by getting some 1/8" rubber hose and cutting three 3/8" pieces off of it. Put the little hose sections on the three screws that hold the lighter bracket in position and reinstall the bracket. Do not overtighten or you will crush the pieces of hose.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild220.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...shbuild172.jpg