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-   -   plans for a frame table (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=24243)

ironworks 12-18-2009 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monza (Post 255343)
Apologies if this is a dumb question.... if you don't weld it solid do you bolt it altogether?

Just don't weld the table completely around every joint. We do 1" stitch welds in each corner. The more heat you put into it from welding the more it will want to move. if you going to put a 1/2" plate on the top it really does not matter. We like the rack style table so you can work on the car easier and have more room to get things in and out. Imagine trying to get a tire off a car you cannot jack up. Every one has their own preference.

wiedemab 12-18-2009 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96z28ss (Post 255346)
These tables are pretty cool. Great for fixturing and the tooling they have available for the table is cool.
They claim it supports 4400lbs.

http://www.stronghandtools.com/pdf_c...ildpro_imp.pdf

Those table are pretty cool, but pretty pricey!

I've always wanted to buy a Frame Rack. The collision shop that my dad manages has a Kansas Jack setup that I think would be awesome for building a car on. You can pick them up used for pretty cheap at time too. And for me I would have the added bonus of being able to do a little collision repair if I needed or wanted to. The drawback is that they are huge...... Hell, I've got to get a bigger shop first!!!!

deuce_454 12-19-2009 01:40 AM

The stronghandtools table is an awesome product, and it has the benefit working day one... .. i also really like the ironworks idea of having a grid in the plate to allow fixtures to be made from solid works..

if you take a look an this post it shows how simple it can be made... https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=23997 alittle on the flimpsy side.. but clearly good enough if you know what you are doing... and it has wheels :thumbsup:
you would need to crossbrace it, or atleast add some way of keeping it square... and have some adjustable supports (modified jacks?) so you can set it up super level if you are scratchbuilding a frame.... but it will get you far...

Sandbagger 12-19-2009 06:04 AM

If I had the room I would get an old Caroliner frame rack . They have wheels , so your mobile . :" up to you to get it level ".Gets the car a good 18 inches off the deck .

deuce_454 12-20-2009 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandbagger (Post 255470)
If I had the room I would get an old Caroliner frame rack . They have wheels , so your mobile . :" up to you to get it level ".Gets the car a good 18 inches off the deck .

isnt that a collision repair table with rams etc... i wouldnt think they were suited for fabrication...

BRIAN 12-20-2009 03:26 PM

I agree with the above in finding an old frame machine and just use the table. Usually when the posts go guys want to get rid of them as they are only in the way. Only worth the cost of scrap.

They are super heavy and straight. Easy to convert to a chassis table. Look on EBAY or Craigs list they pop up often. Think about the cost of some I beams and then setting them up level and square without warpring. With the above you can weld your outriggers per application knowing it is flat and square. Even better if you find on with a working post or two.

Sandbagger 12-21-2009 10:18 AM

The older Caroliner rack are large 6 by something square tubing , Deck can be used to establish a Datum line ...modify as needed .
Lots of em on e-bay .

moparnut 12-21-2009 09:22 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Heres one I built with 3x3 box tubing. It has casters and sits level in all directions as my floor is about perfect. Cost about $300.00.

CRCRFT78 12-22-2009 05:41 AM

I asked earlier but no answer? Is it possible to have a bolt-together table without issues of being unlevel or not sqaure? Or should all tables be welded at certain points?

cheapta 12-24-2009 10:26 AM

Here's my bolt-together table. This is my first go-around for this sort of thing and I wanted soemthing that I could take apart and store out of the way when it's not in use. I scored the I beams for nothing (they had been outside forever and were a mess,this is after a ton of flap-wheeling rust and crud off them) and bought the rest of the steel for the legs and stringers. I'm on a non-existant budget so the free beams drove this style of table.
There are leveling bolts in the bottom of each foot and I was able to get the table level w/in .3 degrees in each direction. That's less than 1/2 degree over about 17 feet long and 6 feet wide. I don't think that's too bad.
I haven't had any issues with bolts loosening-the table doesn't move and there's no vibration going through it so bolting it together is not an issue.
I took these pics the day I put the car on the table so it's just sitting on the lumber in these pics. I've since set it at ride height with the wheels and tires I'm using and welded the body right to the table. I also centered the body on the table,string line to string line so all my measurements come from center and not an edge.
I've never done anything like this before but I've been in awe of some of the fabrication work I've seen on this site and others. I don't know if I'm building this chassis "correctly" but I'm having a ball doing it.

Wish me luck with posting these pics-I'm a computer dinosaur.
<a href="http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/?action=view&current=ChassisJig011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/?action=view&current=ChassisJig015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/hdz28/rear%20discs/New%20Shop/ChassisJig015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


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