Ok, Gotcha

What method would you use if this was'nt the case?? Just qurious...

you already quoted my answer to your question

thanks guys. you can see in that top pic (if you click on it since i cant get them to show), that the edge of the door goes in slightly. when a straight edge is laid across the gap, there is a slight void in the middle. is this something you guys would pull or bump out, or is a little void normal? are we looking to make that joint PERFECTLY flat? i ask because when i sight down most cars, there is a disruption in the reflection which to me means its not a perfect transition. i guess what im asking is, is there a reason not to make it flat? i dont think so, but id rather ask.

also, same thing for the door panel itself on my chevelle. if a 3 foot straight edge is laid on end across the door, there is a 3/16" depression in the middle. its gradual across the entire door, and is close to the same on both original doors. is this normal?

Tim

as i said, get them as best as possible then go to filler/primer. every top shop does it that way.
And no welding solid rod and forming the gap is not butchering anything, its being a craftsmen so when metal finished you cant tell what went on other then the gaps are perfect. The key is to finish both sides not just the outside.
sounds like elite has not done many old cars, the gaps are no where near what new cars are.
I try to get everything as straight as possible. most camaros doors move in multiple directions and are different where the fender meets and where the quarter meets so they can only be so straight as the panels need to do different things in different areas.

top pick, depends on what the edge of the fender does, but yes work the door edge some more, then assemble whole car so all gaps are as good as you can get hood, fenders, doors. dont do any gap work unless entire car is together. then fit doors to quarters, then doors to fender the fender to hood and hood to header if car has header.
panels should have epoxy on them once metal worked, install then block over gaps and see exactely whats going on, and either work metal more or use filler, block and watch whats going on, to make perfect.

in the 2nd and third pics, they appear(in those pics) to be ready for skimming or poly primer (3-4 coats) and block sanding to make perfect.

So adding rod to the edge is butchering... But if you have to, go head and do it:question: Stefan... Not tring to bust chops here just tring to learn,I know you know what your talking about. But if I tried all that you said and still can't get a proper gap go head and weld the rod to the edge. So go head and butcher it:question: Is'int this a contradiction. Help me understand. I have the same concerns and see alot of the top builders using this method. I also see them splitting the edge and filling the gap to tighten up the gap.Is this better? Have you done this? Butchering my car is the last thing I want to do..

yes i use that method on trunk gaps, and hood gaps, alot easier to work.


shearing thin pieces of 18ga to fill split to weld, we spot(sparingly) ,with mig, then tig weld with silicon bronze alot of time, makes metal finishing so easy.

we sheared an even 1/4 piece till it tapered we then sheared the angled piece. all was butt welded, under neath was cleaned up as well. makes for the best gap repair possible.

Thanx great visual:bow:

jake, are you actually splitting the panel and widening the gap, or are you adding a vertical piece and then filling it in?