Lateral-g Forums - Powdercoat and rust...

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No they did not powdercoat over the rust. I know the shop that did it. They just editied for TV. It was sand blasted the preasure washed baked then coated baked again.

I wanted to scream !!! WE sandblast with 120 grit shot, then do a 3 stage phophate wash with a anti/rust sealer . If needed we then epoxy powdercoat prime. Then we would apply the powder topcoat.

I was embarrassed by the way they powdercoated that Impala frame. It is not the way we do it. www.extremepowdercoating.net new wedsite launches Friday. There will be many pictures of the correct way of powdercoating.

Thanks for clearing that up!:thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky67 (Post 271114)

Actually, they need to be sandblasted clean before powder coat. Although, I found that powder coat chips to easy, so I recommend saving your money and getting them painted. Easier to touchup too.

Jeff

It's time to find a new powdercoater, if powdercoating is done right, it will not chip easy at all, it's some of the toughest finishes

I agree with Stephan --- Powder coating is tough stuff.... and many times you can bang it with a hammer - and dent the metal and barely even scuff the coating... if it's chipping -- then something isn't right.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky67 (Post 271452)

Actually DSE did it on my rearend. From a local powder coater that is located near them in Mooresville, NC. It was base and clear coat powder coat, and yes it did chip. How easy was it to chip? Well, just a floor jack under the rear end with a towel covering the jack saddle. Comparing the gloss from the powder coat to the single stage paint. Well, I prefer staying with paint. Lot of orange peel in powder coat.
We repainted the rearend in different shade of silver to match the fine poly in my marina blue paint. It has been hit a few times and it doesn't seem to chip as compared to the powder coat. Cost is much cheaper than powder coat. I talked to Kyle Tucker at DSE and he said that all their show cars are done in paint on their suspension components.

Jeff

as I said before, find another powdercoater who doesn't cut corners,2 most important steps are blasting and etching powdercoat primer, I've had countless parts done by a local powdercoating facility ,from suspension,3 piece and cast wheels to racks, bumpers,stainless trim,exhaust tips and this stuff does not come off ,I've even tried razor blade,scraping it with scraper doesn't do anything but scratch the surface, so it's obvious,whoever did your rear end skipped a few important steps,

and I forgot to add, it's alot cheaper than paint, I actually own paint/body shop and I prefer powdercoating over paint,just for example, they charge me $40 to do a full size truck bumper ,$20 a piece for 22" center of 3-piece wheels, and as comparison, I'd charge no less than $200 to paint a bumper and $75 a piece for 22" wheel center

If the powder is chipping that easy SOMETHING is wrong it is probably a pre-treatment chemical problem or the parts are not fully BAKED AND THE POWDER IS NOT CURED.

Read post #43

:lolhit:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky67 (Post 271879)

I believe it was $200 for the rear for base and clear coat powder coat. The cost of Limco single stage silver was only $40. We scuffed the rearend and re-shot it. Labor cost was zero! We also did the Quadra-link components in the paint. DSE doesn't recommend you powder coat, the quadralink components. (Due to bushing inside.) So people do it, but it is not recommended. What is cool about the paint is the shine, especially in sunlight.

Oh, wasn't you the shop that paid like $6100 for media blasting? https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...light=blasting Need to get your powder coater to do the blasting.

Jeff