Yeah Brian, technically the axle bushings should be rubber but I ran the WRC to see how it would affect the overall handling and was suprised to see theywork quite well. Keep in mind I run 175 lbs springs and have a rear suspension travel limted to ~3". With more travel the inability of the links to "grow" may or may not present a problem, also less spring rate may have revealed a problem as well-I don't know for sure.

The only upper links I recommend using are the Edlebrock arms or Currie Enterprises (unless somebody else has finished devlpment of some form of copycat arm).

There are a ton of guys building spherical LCA's, they are real easy to make-2 left rod ends, 2 right rod ends, 4 jam nuts (2 left/2 right), and 2 peices of threaded tubing. ~110.00 for all the materials. Check out Sppedway Motors or Capital Motorsports.

You mean like I do right now :rolleyes:

www.bmrfabrication.com offers rear susupension parts also. I have used them with great sucess in my F-body and I have the rear for my A-body.

Damn i didnt know the LCA's would be so easy to make, now my only questions are, how do i pick out the right pieces to fit my car, i noticed they make the threaded sleeves in various lengths, and there are a number of different rod ends. Also the thread size, 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4", which size do you recommend?

Could you show me a link to the Currie Enterprise arms that fit the GM A-bodys, the only ones i found are for jeep?

Go big---3/4". I beleive I used 20" links, it's been a while.

Currie

lower links
 

sorry, i've been busy.
We did finish my friend Ricks 71 Malibu and we went with "Edelbrock" :unibrow: upper adjustables, Wolf sphericals, custom lowers (Adjustable from 19.5"-22") with JJ's and a custom panhard bar.
We were told that the car would not work with joints at all points but it worked fine... we added the PHB 3 weeks later. I would have expected the car to handle like a wet noodle but I believe the link convergence takes care of the slop....any problems with you set up Den?

both lowers cost around $200 to build...the left handed bolts are pricey...if you can find them for less than $20 each go for it. We had ours custom made. We had hoped to get some track time on the car but they popped out another baby so we will see.
to get JJ's at both ends you would have to make em.
vin

Good to hear your links worked out, sounds like there be a few folks in the market for something like that.

Me, no problems at all. 1 track day and 10K miles of very hard street driving...nothing I would have done different.

Dennis,what state do you live in? Do you drive the car in the rain and such? I`m wondering if the precipitation and grit left over from winter road cindering etc. in this part of PA. may have anything with accelerating heim wear. Over the years we`ve had less than sterling luck with heims,even the very best teflon lined ones. A couple years and they`re worn sloppy enough to buzz and rattle. I just replaced a set of 1" teflon lined heims in the ladder bars of a customer`s ProStreeter that were only in for 3 seasons (just shows and cruising,no racing). Our G-5 test car`s top of the line QA1 heims were buzzing at 13,000 street miles (that`s daily driving,as in EVERY day). Once they loosened up they went south fast. It may not be an issue on and Elky because you don`t have a large echo chamber (trunk) over the rear suspension? I`m fairly certain the cage in our car make it worse also,transmitting the vibrations through the whole car. It was *very* (as in,give you a headache) annoying. Marcus SC&C

Nor-cal, not the worst weather anywhere but it does rain a few dozen inches annually and yes, I drive everyday rain or shine. I should also note that I work for a heavy equipment contractor and spent A LOT of time in the dirt and mud so that kind of evens the playing feild.