i prefer the look myself.cleans up the side of the car.im building a custom car not a stock resto.id love both but this time around its a custom car.it will never be in the rain unless by accident.if it dates the car thats fine cause im getting dated looking too/lol
remember its your car do what makes you happy:thumbsup:

I have not seen it on a Camaro but have done it on three Mustangs including my own and mine had no rust. I would do it.

driprails
 

I would not say shaving driprails falls into the "lambo door" category, but to each their own.

I have to agree. I did mine over 10 years ago now, and lots of people are just starting to do this now, so I don't see how the car would be dated if the OP decided to go that route.

mine are completely gone. I didn't even leave any remnants of the edge, like some people do. it does suck with the rain though, but it's a small price to pay for a cool look

I wish I could post some pics of my car, but i'm in work so I can't do that

Thanks for all the input, this is clearly personal perference as it seems everyone has their own ideas on the subject. I'm leaning towards a cleaner shaved look as of right now, would still love to see a pic of a finished car though..

g forde did it on this car....

http://www.gforcedesignconcepts.com/...vious07?page=1

I am also considering doing this modification to my 1969 Camaro and I have looked at all the information here and on pro-touring.com. I was still curious how some of you have removed the bump that is left under the drip rail, do you re-contour it with filler?

1969 SS if you could post some pictures when you have a chance that would be great. Thanks.

I dont usually like to double post from one forum to another. But sometimes a guy might get some additional info. And its more of a "how I did it" thread than "should I do it" thread but if you want to see how to do it. I think it cleans up the lines of our older cars. Im not a purist by any means. Yeah, I drink beer, wine and tequila all in the same day. So... Here is what I posted on the Nova forum. My drip rail removal. JR

Ok, I have a 62 and trimmed the drip rails off. Im not in paint yet, but I can say it looks much better. The drip rails on the 62 were just way too high and looked out of place.

Simplified process. And it really is a simple process.

Stainless trim removed (for resale) then I pulled the rail down with channel locks to get access to the sealer (to remove) and the edge of the roof and the door frame top.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0Nova/bent.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Nova/bent3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Nova/bent2.jpg


Then I taped a line for my cut for the plasma cutter. I had the plasma torch and MIG torch draped over my shoulder. I would cut 3-4 inches then grab the MIG torch and weld a hot spot weld to keep the roof from peeling up. I went down the rail, cutting and welding till it was all cut off. Very fast process. Maybe five minutes for each side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Nova/tack2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Nova/tack1.jpg

When the rail was removed I stitch welded the roof into the door frame with a bunch of "spot welds" using the MIG. I split the difference between each spot weld. Keeping it cool all along the way. Basically making nice hot spots of welded metal. Start at the front and split the diff all the way to the back and start over at the front. Till I was laying welds on top of other older welds. It was solidly welded at that point.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ova/tacked.jpg

After all the spot welding I sanded it smooth with an air sander and 80 grit abrasive. Hot spot welds are a must if you want to keep the details of the roof to door frame . It still has some small details that you dont want to remove when doing the sanding. If the welds are too cold and high you will accidentally sand into the detail transition. You dont want that. Using high heat for just a half a second when doing the stitch welding will keep the sanding process at a minimum. The spot weld will be lower and really, more secure. I like to weld with alot of heat and use more control.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ova/ground.jpg

Some primer on the rails to protect.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...versfront2.jpg

Ok, shot 20 plus pics today. Didnt realize how difficult it was to shoot pics of a black car in poor lighting to try to get some definition shots. So you could see the curves of the drip rail and the lines.

Poor lighting, black everything and a crappy photog (me) makes for some crap pics. I photo-shopped them to increase the lighting so you could see the lines. Otherwise it was just a black "something" with no definition. Now its grey pics but you may get a hint of the lines if you hold one eye shut and stand on the opposite foot. Oh, and tilt yer head slightly to the north to gather a lil more light :)

The pic..... Looks better in real life. Ok.... Not really. But it does look better to me. I tend to drink alot. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...l/fb3f3ade.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...l/0b2801e1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...l/5a61ef0d.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...l/d3b5ca46.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...l/2ca29e93.jpg

Shaved drip rails
 

I think it looks great on any car.

My opinion is to leave them and dont flush mount the glass. I admit that it looks really clean; however, it makes the glass not look proportional. It makes the front and rear glass seem to big. With the trim on the front and rear glass the dimensions match the side. Just my two cents.