I wouldn't do either, I would buy a distribution block,there are countless versions and alot of them are very nice pieces

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

I beat flat with a hammer. :thumbsup:

That is done and works. But the issue is you dont get any capillary action with the solder. You quickly cool the solder when you put the copper in and it is no longer liquid. It can be looked at as a cold solder joint. It might have the physical holding but the electrical qualities are reduced. Its a good idea to make a solid connector. One where the solder has completely filled the voids and creates a unit. Im not saying one method is correct. Just what I like to do. JR

But you still have to make or by a line with the lug on it. Say if your attaching to the battery. Or a stud on the frame for a ground. I love distribution blocks. But the type I use have a main stud that needs to have a lug on the wire to attach it. Some have slip in receivers for the wire end. Those are handy. No soldering or crimping. The clamp on the block makes the joint. But the majority of them have a stud that uses a ring terminal. JR

YEAH!!! Now thats a home grown terminal end. I like!! Some extra heat shrink is needed to keep the sharp edges of the terminal from cutting through. But heck. Why use heat shrink. A roll of electrical tape would do the same thing. I love yer idea. Any pics?? I love pics too :) I gotta see yer car dude.. Ill bet its pretty sharp :unibrow: JR

there is a big variety of nice aftermarket battery terminals,connectors that eliminate any crimping or soldering,but I guess cheap terminals ,hammer or a wise do the job too

I've found the best battery "terminals" in the CAR STEREO stores... They have them in a variety of styles - and some with additional capacity to add wires etc. They also have a variety of terminal blocks etc.

The pro wiring guys say DO NOT SOLDER... the reason for that is it can make the wire brittle when done improperly.

If you are going to solder (and I solder my battery cables only) I place the cable in the lug (if you don't have a crimper then just use a center punch or similar and tap the lug just enough to pinch it to hold it onto the wire) and hold the WIRE in the vise not the terminal - holding the terminal causes too much heat as the vise acts as a heat sink... Just hold the wire so the terminal is draped down so you can add heat to the lug - and then just add the solder. The minute the solder melts and is drawn (flows) into the cable - withdraw the heat. Too much heat is the cable killer.

Wish I'd have known you were going to do this - I'd have brought down my crimpers! :woot:

The other good source for one or two battery type parts - dist blocks etc - is your local West Marine. They have stuff for a variety of applications = such as cable bulk head fittings etc - for the boat world - which uses a ton of 12V big cable stuff... They also carry lots of STAINLESS STEEL dist blocks etc..

They're too expensive (M A R I N E) if you're going to buy more than one of something... then you can source the same or similar stuff elsewhere.

Hmmm... not sure if you're just kidding, or being an a-hole. :cool:

I'm thinking "both" of the above - Lat G just really isn't the website for "beating flat with a hammer" kind of work... ya think? :wow: