Question are you running the power windows through relays? I have heard that hey helped with the wimpy problem

it's not a voltage issue........... it's how much torque the motors allow before they internally shut off.

Jody

I just installed Electric Life windows in the '55 post car I'm doing and they work great... I will say however, that there are two major differences:

1: The glass size may be less than that of a 69 Camaro

2: That car uses "fuzzies" and has a full channel since it's a 2 door post car..

The glass rubbing on the rubber (wubba as a buddy calls it) will really cause some friction.

Relays are more about the capacity of the switch - over the voltage/amperage some load sees. Given the proper gauge wiring etc. The relay is just a switchable switch (I like that term).... but it doesn't raise or lower the voltage.

If you compare the wiring gauge on an older car - and then run it thru an old pull style switch - not only are you possibly reducing the voltage (contact switch) you're also arcing etc... that was fine with the old T12 headlights... but now we want to run big old nasty big watt jobbies.... NOW you need a relay and some appropriate gauge wiring to handle that load. If not - you'll overload the stock wiring - and you'll burn up the switch. Ditto an electric fan. You want the fan to get heavy gauge wiring - they can pull 30 amps momentary (start up load)... and you're switching them on via a short to ground thru the temp/switch. That's when you use a relay... to have the switch switch the switch.... :rofl: It takes barely anything to switch the relay - and then the fan sees full voltage.

I'm only tossing this out there - because about 90% of the guys I know - still do not understand a "relay".

okay just tossing that out from what I heard about people fixing the problem with relays. I dont have power windows and was looking for some for my challenger and came across electric life. But from hearing about the wimpy motor decided to think a little more about it. Whats the motor on the kits? is there a way to adapt a window motor from a car that would have enough torque to get the window to roll all the way up? How about the use of a helper spring like garage doors use when you open them?

Any feelings on using stock power window regulators guys? I have a set in garage but probably should get new harness for them. Brandon

Voltage drop had crossed my mind, so I had tested one by hot wiring the motor, and no change. There's just not enough gear reduction. It's pretty clear it's a gear reduction/torque multiplication issue when you put the windows down.... they go from fully closed to fully open in about 4 tenths of a second. lol

well that just blows. anybody tried contacting them to get an answer? if they do shut that quick, it seems like a gear change would work. plus it would help with the pressure shut off as well.

BTW -- I mis-spoke -- I have just installed POWER WINDOW SPECIALTIES power windows in the 55 post car --- and they work perfectly. They're fast - up and down - and don't stall or do anything weird. However, the windows in these cars use FELTS not rubber... so isn't directly comparable to the Camaro you're working on.

Scott --- and Jody.

So do you see this as an ELECTRIC LIFE problem --- over another brand?