Muncie m22 4 speed at buttonwillow. I miss that whine :(



You can see 4th gear use is minimal.

NO NO NO.. once you are rolling a stallspeed converter will hurt your lap times... 2600-2800 stall is all you need.... and preforably a lockup one at that... a paddleshifter will help

and the torque-multiplication of the proposed 3600 yank is just as easily done with a lower rear end ratio

Which Dynapro calipers did not work for you? These?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...pers,8754.html

My recommendation for using an older model car as a track car is, "Keep It Simple" The more complicated things are, the more things there are that can fail. It only takes one thing to break or have a bad electrical connection or whatever to put you in the pits.

You're at the track to drive, not hunt down electrical gremlins or play with laptops trying to reprogram an ECU. You're not there to fix oil leaks on a turbo or get the hydroboost to function properly. I have missed one track session on track days 5 times due to various mechanical things. A couple were preventable and some not but they add up to a days track time. Since it ends up averaging me about $1,000.00 per track day to run the car I figure I've spent over a grand sitting in the pits. And my cars reliable! I've seen other people make one session and miss the rest of the day!!Anything you can do that will eliminate potential falures will let you use your track money where it should be used, on track!

Stick to the basics! A basic engine with road race oiling system and an old fashioned carb, simple fuel delivery system, good brakes, basic suspension upgrades, the best tires. Don't try to reinvent the race car, just use what others have used for years with success. Track time ends up being expensive, you don't want to spend it in the pits, you want a car that will go out and take a beating all day. Not the fastest one lap wonder or technical electronic marvel, just a car that works.

Every time you go to put a piece on the car, think about the simplest strongest most durable way to do it. Eliminate any unnecessary plumbing, electrical connections, etc. They're just places for possible failures. Don't install things you don't know you need. The car will tell you what it needs as you start taking it out and get better as a driver on track. Choice of welding or bolting? Look it over carefully and most likely you'll weld it because a nut and bolt can vibrate loose. There's a reason race cars have to have nuts wired. Speaking of nuts never re-use a nylock nut or torque nut, always use a new one! I learned the hard way on both.

I know this is contrary to the Pro-Touring philosophy, however, you asked about a "track car". Not about a PT car that might (or might not) hit a track or autocross once in a while. A track car needs to be ready to be pushed to it's limits for 2.5 hours a day at the track. Thats full throttle/threshold brake/full throttle/threshold brake/full throttle for over 2 hours while being tossed around corners between throttle and brake!! Thats a lot to ask of an old car so keeping it simple reduces the posibilities of being sidelined.

Listen to Dane, He has a 1st gen and goes to the track. He found what works and some things that don't. Oh, and get a good little simple video camera like a Go Pro or something. It's fun to see what you did on track later.

I road raced with my M-21 for quite awhile before I grenaded it at Infineon. I now use an M-22 and love it. Weight and tires are also very important. Shave wait where ever you can. When you buy new component think about what it weights. Toyo RA-1 or R888's tires are the best for the money and can last you quite a long time and can use them on the street. If you are trying to save money you can get away with just buying upper control arms. Everybody has leaf spring choices but I like the Global West springs and I've tried a few different brands. I fit 17x9.5 with 275/40's all the way around with stock subframe, back space is 5.5". Up front you need to cut the inner fender well and roll your fender lip but they fit. A minimum of 2 piston calipers up front with good race pads will get you by until you progress.

Good luck and glad to hear there may be another future track junky.

If you are going to topeka ks. for that 72 camaro. You should stop by my shop and I will show how I built my suspension componets myself that are as competive as the big boys stuff. If you have some fabrication skills you could save some dough doing it you self.Scott

We'll see what I end up doing. My 02 35th LE is most likely totalled due to hail damage, so I have to see where the dust settles after this. We got some rediculous hailstorms over the past few weeks in central oklahoma. My roof is a total loss, my wifes 08 xterra has at LEAST $3400 worth of damage. Luckily we have full coverage on everything. On the plus side, the M21 and 60 350 are officially in my posession. :) :bow:

The Dynapro 6 calipers.... Without the center bolt to hold the caliper together under pressure, they balloon out and I lost pedal pressure.

http://wilwood.com/Images/BrakeKits/...0510-DR-lg.jpg



Hence the new brakes having the center bolt. The 6Rs.
http://wilwood.com/Images/BrakeKits/...0815-DR-lg.jpg

I need to work on this..... :thumbsup: