Thanks for the input Vince :thumbsup:

Sounds like a good plan, so who's arms would make your "top 3" list?

Was looking at Afco coilovers, good/bad?

While I think I will ultimately end up with an LS motor the BB will have to do for now. How much less does the LS motor weight? I was thinking the L92 or LS3 would be the way to go with the alloy block but I'm sure an iron block motor would work just as well with a little more wieght, I wonder how much more........

You don't need to lose the big block. The low end torque is ideal for autocross and road racing. With aluminum heads, radiator, battery in the trunk, you are in small block territory anyway. I've raced my car with a steel block and now ZL-1 aluminum block. It doesn't make that much difference. Honing in your chassis and your skills will make a much greater difference. LSX this, LSX that. :rolleyes:

Thanks Todd

While the BB is staying for now it's not very streetable. I built it with intensions of drag racing so it's got 12.5:1 compression a really lumpy cam, Holley Strip Dominator intake and 850cfm dp. It ain't a pump gas motor! It's also got a deep oil pan with little baffling. The heads are early GM aluminum closed chamber with LOTS of work done on the exhaust ports BUT it wasn't built for unleaded fuel. And it's a baby at only 402ci.

While I haven't crunched the numbers as to what it would cost to make this thing live on pump gas I have a feeling it may be close to a used LS motor. While I know It would cost more to install, the EFI would be very welcome. Our fearless leader Scott told me he knocked down 22mpg with his modded LS7 - I don't think that is possible with a BB? Bottom line is I want to USE the thing!

I get about 24mpg on the highway, but I could probably get better. :cheers:

24mpg :wow: that's what I get with my daily driver! Nice :thumbsup:

What are you running for rear-end gears, didn't see it mentioned in the Camaro Performers article?

That's a different story. There is no doubt the LSX is the most economical option. I thought you had a decent street power plant.

I'm running 3.70's. I'm pretty happy with that setup with a 26" tire. :cheers:

I would be very carefull full welding the seams on the subframe. Heat will warp the you know what out of it, and it will provide very little benefit except looking cool all smoothed. If you do weld it up solid, do it in stiches 1 to 2 inch at a time and bounce from side to side to allow cooling beween welds.

As for mods, IF your using aftermarket control arms a simple re drill of the upper control arm mounting holes on the subframe below the factory holes will improve you camber gain. And a set of geometry corrected control arms will increase caster.

A good set of coil springs like Hotchkis, some good shocks (Hotchkis are great NON adjustable on a budget, A hollow sway bar (Hotchkis again) and a 600 steering gear, some tie rod stiffeners, and you have a really nice frame for $2500!

All great advice. Also, instead of relocating the upper control arm mounting holes (the Guldstrand mod), you can use either tall spindles (not drop tall spindles) or tall ball joints.

Understood, I've made some wavy stuff before :_paranoid Do you think it would be worth the trouble of pulling a finished car apart to do this mod - well, I suppose I could do 75% of it without pulling the subframe? I was also thinking about some forward struts to help stiffen the front - worth the trouble?

My only question here is who's arms are "geometry corrected"? The actual changes made by the various aftermarket arm builders seems to be a secret! They list the material they are made of, which bushings and balljoints they use but they don't specifically list what the change in geometry will be (did I miss it somewhere?). Reading many other posts in this forum it seems you would be the man to ask :D

That all sounds good. So you recommend the 600 box over a rack?