I did not know that you could bolt-on the 4th gen stuff. Thats a huge win since we'll be using c4 front spindles, so we can have OEM GM stuff all the way around.

Glad to pass on what I have learned on my own projects. I had a set of factory brakes left over from my 4th gen after doing a Wilwood drag race setup. When I was upgrading the axles and posi in my 2nd gen, I decided to check just for the hell of it and see what it would take to get the 4th gen brakes on there. To my surprise they bolted right up!

No way! Well that 100% solves that problem, thanks for passing that tip along as that is totally awesome!

AFX spindles and SPC lightweight arms.... the AFX accepts C5 brakes so you can install good used brakes for cheap up front too....

For a second gen? Where can I get them? :hail:

from ats or speedtech:D ... not sure if their ready yet though.

I thought they never actually made it to production, and when I looked on the Speedtech site the other day, their 2nd gen offerings are much more limited than their 1st gen.

I'd love to be told that I'm wrong and that a 2nd gen ATS spindle is coming, but I don't recall ever conclusively seeing that one is. So my previous comment wasn't intended sarcastically if it came off that way, I sincerely would like to know if it's available. :yes:

Thanx!

I have them on my car...
and yes its a second gen.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC00850.jpg

Something may have changed but they were available.

Budget Suspensions can work very well...
 

The Hotchkis TVS kit is a no brainer IMHO! Pro-TouringF-Body also has an EXCELLENT budget setup that is great if you're looking to stick with leaf springs and stock control arms. http://pro-touringf-body.com/ I'd highly recommend something along these lines if you can swing it! Nothing like a kit that's already been scienced out for you!

... if not... you can do a little at a time to get there on a budget... a PST front end rebuild kit to get that squared away... get some 550ppi front springs (HO Racing or Hotchis)... getting a 1 3/8" sway bar vs 1.25" = 36% more stiffness and then with some good tires (BFG KD) you're better than 90% of the OEM cars on the road. For that killer/low stance on a budget you'll have to cut your new springs and use a lowering block or get some dearched rear springs... New springs can lower your front 1-1.5" and stock sagged rear springs worked well on my car though... cutting stock springs that low is just asking for trouble IMHO!

The actual/intended usage of the car will dictate the suspension settings...for "hot street" 1/2 deg neg camber and 4-6 deg pos caster with 1/16" toe in will get you the feel you want.

For brakes, you can get it to stop in 130-140 ft for $400... but if want under 120 ft stops it will take some bucks! Swap on a set of 12" B-Body brakes from the bone yard, install an adjustable proportioning valve, get a set of more agressive pads from Wilwood or Brute Stops from Raybestos.
The 12" brake upgrade is an easy and inexpensive swap using factory components but it's not 13+ rotors with sexy calipers ...

Checkout www.scarebird.com for rear disc brake options or swap in a WS6 complete rear with discs... or the 4th gen stuff as Brett has already mentioned.

Budget shocks = Classic Red Konis will ride better AND corner better than KYBs but only by a little...

Budget option #1 for second gen 1 1/4" front bar front springs 700-740 lb/in
(1985 diesel S-10s drop in), stock rear springs and a 5/8" rear bar. Bigger rear bar will pick up the inside rear wheel on a tight hard turn or a really angled driveway. Bilsteins or Konis all around. Solid bushings.

Budget option #2 540-560 ppi front spring with 1-3/8" front sway bar and a 7/8" rear bar which IS too big for road race but OK for slalom/autocross as it makes it easier to get around the cones(power induced oversteer). The combo of the 1-3/8" front bar and 560ppi springs will give a better road ride than the 770s with about the same combined roll stiffness. On a high speed road course, the 770s would probably be better. Solid or Poly bushings all around and you can take some bite out of the rear bar by using rubber mounts. Put in as much pos caster as feasable... 3-3.5 is pretty good without modifying the upper control arm.

HTH :thumbsup:

V/R,
Ty :lateral: