The whole rolling chassis will be up there when your ready for it :D

1. you can no longer get black

2. make sure you install the hood latch right. It goes INSIDED the core support not on the front (there's a slot on the bottom)

3. we needed to make a shim between the core support and the bracket that goes to the frame mount. This was to get it to the right heigth. Now they provide you with the shims, so this is no big deal.

4. Overall the fit and finish was excellent. If you do an LS application (two on the right) make sure to ask them to put the radiator cap on the left.

5. Very happy with the product and the customer service.

http://i49.tinypic.com/1o69oi.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/10rk5ro.jpg


Here you can see how NOT to do it. The hood latch is on the front, but should be "sandwiched" inside the core support. We corrected this for the story.
http://i47.tinypic.com/k4jhv6.jpg

With their closeout system:

http://i49.tinypic.com/29w4i0m.jpg

Just wanted to point out that the radiator Cdushane has pictured is not an Autrorad. It's a Prodigy radiator package. Since I'm good at it, I'll play devils advocate. It's hard enough to keep an aluminum radiator looking decent let alone a black anodized. A leak or a burp is going to lead to cooked on antifreeze. I certainly understand and like the look, I always look at the end result as well.

Why not just powder coat it the same black you would do for the inner fenders? This way that all match. I don't under stand the anodizing of a core support. And good point on the ability for it to stay nice in the long run.

We powder coat and paint them. Anodize aluminum has that look that looks like nothing else.

We are not having any staining issues, anodize is like a vampire, it tough as nails to anything except sunlight!

Actually any heat is hard on anodizing since it opens the pores in the metal and that compromises the dye. Thats why when you look at older project cars the fittings are all baby blue and pink. lol

AutoRad quit offering black annodizing because they couldn't get a consistent result on the welds and the panels.

I agree that power paint would make more sense.

that is because blue and red are soft annodize. You can get black in hard annodize and will be much more durable. The only issue i have with annodize, is it will discolor around welds.

We sell lots of the PRC units and they work great, but when it came to needing a core support for project "N-XSS", I picked Autorad, Steve's pics say it all. Now you got me wondering Steve about our neck placement, guess I need to pull it out of the box and check it out.

We run Auto Rad radiators in every car that we build. Top notch stuff! The fit and finish level is second to none. We used to use other radiators, but would spend more time trying to make them look good and hide nasty welds. Auto Rad's stuff looks incredible in bare aluminum. :thumbsup:

The Hard Coat anodize quality depends a little on what the welding filler was used. It also depends on who is doing the anodize. That is why we ship the radiator 1000 miles to us to anodize them.

Heat is not a big problem, we have been selling anodize front drives for years. Lots of hard coat parts are sold like Earls fittings, they do not change color. Remember the radiator is only at 200 degrees which is not real hot. Sunlight (UV) is death to any anodize.

Powder coat is not a option if you want the fins black, will absolutely ruin the cooling efficiency. You would have to paint the fins with a special paint for radiator fins, tape them off anf powder caot the rest. Might as well paint it at that point.

Here is Chris Radiator. The welds are SLIGHTLY different color. a LITTLE browner then the rest of it. But gives it that anodize look.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...AnodizeRad.jpg

The black looks really good.. and like you said the hard annodizing should hold up pretty good.

AutoRad just quit doing it since they could get consistent quality in the looks department around the welds and they are pretty picky.

My car idled for nearly two hours and the water temp never went over 200.. Stuff works real good.