Here is the cageI did with por 15

before

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC00025.jpg

And after

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC01269.jpg

I did all the steps, and yes it took a long time. :lol:

I did not care for it so much on larger flat surfaces. I had a hard time getting it as smooth as I would have liked without spraying. I only used it on large flat areas where it wouldn't be seen or would be covered. It did self level very nicely on the bars. Maybe with some more practice the flat areas would have looked better.

Por-15
 

I would wear a filtered face mask, also you get that stuff on you it will be there for a while. It is good stuff though.

I got a good laugh out of this!! I cant get this junk off my floor either.

Me Too! Eight years into my project and still stuck to the floor too! :willy:

is that the kit with the mesh & putty? I'm curious too see how that works out.

POR15 does not like new smooth surfaces, so for floor pans and such make sure you etch clean metal real well with their etcher.


that stuff gets harder as it cures. I did my LCAs with it, I scratched one of them a week after I did them. months later they are far more scratch resistant.

KBS Rust Seal!!!! Its a 3 step process...aqua blast, rust blast, then rust seal...And for undercoating the BEST product is Monstaliner! Look up these product because they worked wonders on my 64 impala restoration. My 2 cents

Rust Bullet vs Por15?
 

Just curious what the feedback is on these two products. They seem very similar. I also looked at the eastwood ceramic chassis paint

I plan to paint the chassis a semi gloss black and then us a bedliner kit for the floor pans on the bottom of the car. I see on this post a guy uses Monstaliner with a roller.

Thanks Travis

I've used POR15 on many things - rear end housing - suspension A arms - Chassis.... The key to this (as with any coating) is cleaning and etching for a good grip - the paint is only as good as it's surface adhesion.

POR15 --- you can hit this stuff with a hammer and dent the metal without chipping it! LOL -- Get it on your cement floor or yourself - you'll find out how tough it is. Open the can -- use it -- try to reseal and get that can open again - NOT! Buy small cans -- use them - toss 'em. Ditto anything used to apply the stuff short of your spray gun - that would have to be cleaned.


#1 NOTE --- this stuff takes a LONG time to dry -- thus -- if you'd like your parts to look perfect - you'd better be in a dust free environment. It will have dust in it. This is not show quality paint -- it's made to paint over rust (thus the name P O R).

#2 NOTE --- Don't try to use a sponge type brush.


#3 NOTE --- Don't try to brush the stuff out... it will FLOW out plenty smooth. Remember that long drying duration? That's what has the paint flowing out flat.

Thanks GW,, That is basically what I am wanting to use it on, chassis and differential housing. It is clean bare steel. Just want something durable and easy to touch up.

Good uses for it -- where it's dark and mostly out of sight - unless you're name is Mario (Doom) and you're trying to build a Ridler car.

I use the prep spray they sell --- Marine Prep I think it's called -- nasty stuff - spray on rinse off... then paint when it's all dry.