Correct, kind of.
 

It won't be a track only car but it will be street legal. I'd like to think I could drive it to the track as some on this board have done with their rides.

Won't be driving it to the market.
Won't be commuting in it.
Won't run it at the dragstrip.

Open track days and maybe a silver state classic type event.

2.87 first gear with 3.7 rear ratio gives me a current 10.6 final drive.
I may swap to a 4.10 rear for a 11.77 final drive.

With 482ci and a flat torque curve near 600ft the motor should be up for the task but the weight of the car is the downfall.

I'm thinking the benefits on the track will be more noticeable than the quirks on the street.

Given your usage -- you're correct. You'll just have to learn how to drive it "nicely" on the street... there's no lugging from a stop and traffic can be a lot of work. But who cares if it's rarely....


I had a D/G nose high '55 Handyman with a straight axle and a 292 ci - 4 speed - mechanical fuel injection.... it was a bitch trying to cruise Broadway on a Friday night.... but it could have been the whacky terbacky back in the day too... :rofl:

someone smart do the math and figure out how much horsepower is being lost with the 10lb difference. someone posted 17hp, but i dont remember the dia of the fly or the hp of the motor to determine a percentage.

i would consider your car a "track oriented car" but you still drive it on the street. can you imagine driving past the women on the strip and stalling in front of them?:_paranoid

I daily drove a lightweight aluminum flywheel car for 30k miles from 2008 to 2010 -- commuting and city driving through the hilly streets of San Francisco.

It's all about your personal tolerance and "foot/calf coordination." :lol:

The Camaro I have now came with an aluminum flywheel but the gears are mismatched for now so I can't really enjoy it or utilize it. I will be remedying that though.

I like my aluminum flywheel for the way it revs and gives more control with the throttle in an autox. I can let off the gas and car slows down as quickly as it speeds up. You will have plenty of torque with a bb and as long as you learn how to drive it you will be ok. I would drive it with the 3:70 gear 1st to see if you really need the lower gearing. You may also think about a lower 1st gear in the trans as a way to fix the take off.

You can also go with a lightweight 17-21 lb steel flywheel if you want to meet in the middle.

I wouldn't get rid of my aluminum for a steel as lomg as I am going to autox or trackday because of the way the car can be driven so much differently and with an advantage.

If you have a hard time with a clutch and smoothly engaging it all the time it is stongly advisable to go at least 30 lb or more.

Have fun cause it's a tough choice.

I goes back to the word compromise. Do you want that edge on the track or the drivability on the street. You can't have both. :unibrow:

I don't find the aluminum flywheels hard to drive on the street at all. I think they are fun. Maybe there is something wrong with me. :lol:

The only time I notice any sort of issue with al flywheel is when I'm pulling out of my driveway at crawl speeds to keep from pissing off my non-enthusiastic about car hobby neighbors. The car tends to buck a bit. If you can deal with that your good.

After feeling the quick revs of Dave's 377 with aluminum flywheel, I'm tempted next time my tranny comes out. :D

FWIW my 3860 lb 409 Impala SS in the 70 had a Hays aluminum w/ bronaze heat shield (now in a 79 Camaro autocross car) and was driven daily and threw my paper route from it-had to pay for car parts somehow. It had a Muncie 2.20 first gear and 4.56s with 29" tall tires and was no problem. Easier on hooking the car up on clutch side steps and would pull alot of cars on the big end also.