I'm not sure if the time you use sitting there trying to apply ice packs or dry ice to patches of this stuff would be any less than the time it might save you just removing the Dynamat at standard temperature. Probably a wash at best. Mr Freeze would have been perfect though. :lol: He could've also kept my beer cold.

I'm actually using a product called B-Quiet Ultimate. It's basically the same thing as Dynamat. Matt(69MSA) mentioned he uses the same thing. A while back I found an unbiased comparison of the 2 products which found that B-Quiet was just slightly lighter and stickier than Dynamat and worked just about the same. B-Quiet is a bit cheaper also. That was about 3 or 4 years ago. I think Dynamat removes slightly easier than B-Quiet, but is still a pain in the arse as well.

I know exactly what you mean. I had a new tunnel built in my Chevelle for the installation of the T56 Magnum and the guy had to hand scrap all that Dynamat tar stuff off of the old floor where he had cut out the old floor section so he could weld in the new metal. I was at the shop a couple of times and I felt sorry for the guy. That stuff took alot of muscle and gritting his teeth together. And that was just the outline of where he needed to weld in the new tunnel. I would hate to imagine someone having to scape a whole floor. I've included a pic of where you can see the outline weld of the tunnel. You can see where the rest of the Dynamat was left down.

How about one of those multi function tools that look likw a 4" grinder but scrape, cut, sand. I saw some at Harbor Freight pretty cheap. Maybe you can get under it with that and have someone pull it as you go. or even with the ice or dry ice.

Chris, if I were you I would try using some dry ice. I don't think it is that hard to come by these days, and if you buy a whole bag, just put it in a tub with some beer for when you're done. Even if the dry ice doesn't work on the dynamat/B-quiet, the beer will be so cold that it will be worth the effort.

Matt

Yep, I found a slight amount of heat did help a little. It allowed my razor scraper to nearly get everything off at times(in 2 inch wide strips). Flat surfaces where you can get a good run going with the scraper and heat aren't too bad. It's the curves and beads and tight spots that are the time and towel consumers.

Well, whether it's Dynamat or B-Quiet, the product is actually doing what it's supposed to when it's sticking to the metal like a muthaf#$@, so we can't really fault them. It would be cool though if they developed and released a "Best Possible Removal Kit/Process". As more and more cars get this stuff applied to them, future restoration folks are gonna need all the help they can get.

Be thankfull you are removing it from metal and not trying to save a plywood or particleboard subloor in a 15' x 20' room. Metal and concrete make it simple........kinda. :D

I'm actually done removing what I had to remove(there's still some stuck in my teeth though), but the tub full of beer and dry ice sounds like a fun new project. That one I don't mind asking help with. :thumbsup:

That doesn't sound like too much fun either. While you were doing it, did you hear Satan laughing like I did? :lol:

I wonder if a 3M eraser wheel would work. Works excellent on decals and two-sided tape.

Thats why the stuff works..It sticks like crazy, Just don't get it on your cloths it won't wash out. :thumbsup: